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I just had the stock fuel tanks on my B61 chemically stripped. I think they came out pretty good but will still need a little work. The metal is thin where the spec plates were fastened next to the steps. The guys that did the work think there may be another hole behind the step on on tank. They look very good inside and on the bottom. My question is, can I just hit these spots with my mig welder or is there a sealer that might work better.

Also, there is a slight residue inside from the stripping process. Can I rinse this out with water and dry real well and be ok to fuel up after that?

Thanks for any help.

Billy

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.... and then pressure test the tank after you're done welding and before installing it on the truck.

About 5 psi is plenty, then spray all the welds with a mixture of Mr. Clean and water while the tank is pressurized..

You'll see bubbles immediately if there are any pinholes, if so, clean off the leaky area, then re weld and pressure test again.

Repeat if necessary.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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.... and then pressure test the tank after you're done welding and before installing it on the truck.

About 5 psi is plenty, then spray all the welds with a mixture of Mr. Clean and water while the tank is pressurized..

You'll see bubbles immediately if there are any pinholes, if so, clean off the leaky area, then re weld and pressure test again.

Repeat if necessary.

I have done many of them that way . Now no one will weld on a tank because of the libility aspect of it. I always said the tank straps is what people should worry about for as breaking.

glenn akers

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when the saddle tank on my old dump truck got a pin hole and had a fine powdery rust in it, i used a gas tank sealer that came in a quart can. you pour it in, roll the tank around till all the sides are covered then pour the extra back in the can and save it for the next tank. this stuff would seal small holes and cover any rust that was in the tank. it was safe for gasoline and diesel fuel. i got it from my local napa dealer.

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Also, in my earlier post I should have emphasized that when you are welding on a diesel fuel tank, you must remove the fuel cap and all pipe fittings and plugs from the tank.

This is to prevent a pressure buildup in the tank from the heat of welding, which could cause an explosion.

Only plug off all the fittings in the tank while pressure testing, leave everything open while welding.

And, DON"T TRY TO FIX A GASOLINE TANK THIS WAY!!!!!!!!!!

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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Thanks for all the input. I really think that the worst of it is where those plates were attached. I will definately cut that part out and replace it.

As far as the sealer that your pour in, I did a little searching on the net and it seamed that people have used this method on small automobile gas tanks and motorcycle tanks. I just assumed it would take a lot of material to do a 40 and a 50 gal tank. After I do some welding and do a pressure check hopefully I will be good to go.

Thnaks again,

Bill

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Thanks for all the input. I really think that the worst of it is where those plates were attached. I will definately cut that part out and replace it.

Thnaks again,

Bill

Don't cut on a tank with an oxyacetylene torch!

When you hit the cutting lever on the torch you'll be pushing pure oxygen into the tank thru the cut. Combine that with the diesel fuel vapors and you're creating a bomb.

Use a cutoff wheel or some other method.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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I just had the stock fuel tanks on my B61 chemically stripped. I think they came out pretty good but will still need a little work. The metal is thin where the spec plates were fastened next to the steps. The guys that did the work think there may be another hole behind the step on on tank. They look very good inside and on the bottom. My question is, can I just hit these spots with my mig welder or is there a sealer that might work better.

Also, there is a slight residue inside from the stripping process. Can I rinse this out with water and dry real well and be ok to fuel up after that?

Thanks for any help.

Billy

it depends on how big of holes are in it, but i have used JBweld on pinholes never had one leak yet.
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Also, in my earlier post I should have emphasized that when you are welding on a diesel fuel tank, you must remove the fuel cap and all pipe fittings and plugs from the tank.

This is to prevent a pressure buildup in the tank from the heat of welding, which could cause an explosion.

Only plug off all the fittings in the tank while pressure testing, leave everything open while welding.

And, DON"T TRY TO FIX A GASOLINE TANK THIS WAY!!!!!!!!!!

Amen Herb thank ya ya took the words out of my mouth Thats how my dad passed on by not removing the piping & vents (& possibly fumes ) was 2 weeks in hospital back in early septmember of 77 from 3RD DEGREE BURNS OF 85% OF HIS BODY FROM WELDING ON A FUEL TANK (300 gallon diesel tank) on a 77 Chevy 1 Ton service truck

if yall weld on a tank take Herb's advice it caused my grandparents on my dads side to raise me & me to grow up w/o my dad ( i was 2yrs old when he passed ) i wouldnt want to see or hear about this happening to a fellow BMT MEMBER (Or anyone else for that matter )

this being said IT has caused ME to replace a fuel tank inted of repairing them but this my doing & no one elses

just my 2 cents

later yall

:mack1:

You Cant Fix Stupid. But You Can Numb It With A Sledgehammer. :loldude:

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