Transmission Fit

[Speed]

Hi-it's me again;

There's a Mack B-series frame and running gear on Craigslist-Reno for (I think) $750.00 complete;Maxidyne,Quad-box,tandem axles,steering gear...anyway,would the Quad fit my E model's gas engine,and if not,how tough would it be to get the Maxidune and Quadraplex into my truck? (Not real sure I want to go Diesel,but with the whole drivetrain to play with.. .)

Speed

[terry]

They are different bell housing sizes, and i don,t think the frame is big enough for that engine. Terry

[HK Trucking]

I'll second that.

[vanscottbuilders]

Speed,

The conversion would be a major project, and may not be do-able at all without major modifications.

Then there is the design limitations. That quadraplex weighs almost as much as your whole truck!

And, of course, the diesel is no lightweight either. So there might be some engineering considerations.

What you might do, however, is to consider putting your E cab and fenders on the B frame and drivetrain.

That could be cool, if it fits.

If you are just looking for more gears to shift - think about a lightweight auxiliary transmission to fit in your driveline.

Nothing like creative thinking!

Paul Van Scott

[DAVEJ]

Not sure about all that, But, I (we) have found that helping out others and we get in a bind, and of course specs can help out Try calling or got to www.oldmacks.com They usally have answer right off top of their head(s). Hope this is helpful. I say we call, 'cause there in same area code.

[theakerstwo]

Not sure about all that, But, I (we) have found that helping out others and we get in a bind, and of course specs can help out Try calling or got to www.oldmacks.com They usally have answer right off top of their head(s). Hope this is helpful. I say we call, 'cause there in same area code.

[/quote What?

[Speed]

there are a couple of reasoms I'm interested in this. First-the frame/running gear is available for reasonable,and Second,my truck has a 5 speed main with a 3 speed Brown Lipe,so I really wouldn't be gaining any gears;What I would be gaining is a transmission with two sticks that are designed to work together,unlike my current set up that's too mis-matched to shift properly. Make that # reasons-Third-I have a friend who just bought a one ton truck that turns out to have 4.56 gears and 16 inch tires; my figures show me about 3,750 rpms at 75 mph.and the overdrive in the Brownie would bring that down tojust under 3,000 rpm. I told him he could have the Brownie for his truck if this other deal works out.

I think you might be right,Paul-the best way to go about this might be to swap my cab and doghouse onto the B frame. It'd mean changing to air brakes,and adding an axle,but it'd sure be cool! Now-how do I keep it under 26,000 pounds GVWR? That was the big benefit of my E to begin with-no CDL required. I don't see any way to keep the new set up legal for me.

I was looking through the CDL test handbook a couple of nights ago,thinking maybe it'd be worthwhile for me to try for the conditional CDL they offer,only good in-state,no haz-mat,no passengers,and I think they would make me do the physical every year.Iit about made my brain explode,so much to learn. THIS is the reason I hoped to hang on to the stock E frame etc.,to hopefully keep it under the CDL weight rating.Oh-wellI'll figure something else out.

Thanks for your input!

Speed

[Charlie Hatfield]

Stick to one vehicle at a time, other wise you have vehicles or parts of vehicles scattered every where and none of them done. Why don't you get the "E" running and driving, and if you don't like it or want something else, sell it and buy something else.

Brownies were put in trucks to help speed up a truck or give more power to the bottom end. They are not shifted very much and don't need to be.

[GearheadGrrrl]

Speed, if you're thinking of getting the DOT Waiver, go for it! When my MS got bad in 1991 and the company doctor wouldn't pass me on the regular physical, I got a waiver. With that waiver I was able to continue my trucking career until I retired this year. Even if you're restricted to in state operation, having a CDL would open a lot more career possibilities for you.

[Speed]

Speed, if you're thinking of getting the DOT Waiver, go for it! When my MS got bad in 1991 and the company doctor wouldn't pass me on the regular physical, I got a waiver. With that waiver I was able to continue my trucking career until I retired this year. Even if you're restricted to in state operation, having a CDL would open a lot more career possibilities for you.

What I'm up against with the restricted CDL is that it requires my blood glucose to be in good control for a year,and the inability to do that (along with Asthma and Emphysema) weighed heavily in my getting Social security Disability,so I don't think I can control it well enough to satisfy the DOT. I haven't had much trouble with my glucose levels while driving since I went Brittle Diabetic,but that won't be good enough for the pencil pushers.

I think Charlie's probably on the right track;I'll keep the ol' E as it is,(except for removing the 5th wheel and adding a flatbed) and enjoy using it. With it set up as a flatbed, I think I can load it up,pull a car hauler trailer and still move real close to 15K gracefully,and legally. I'm figuring my weighs 7,800 now,with a flatbed I'm adding about 1,000 pounds,it has a 19,000 GVW;that leaves me with 10,200 for cargo. Add the trailer,which I'm figuring at about 2,000 pounds,and that leaves about 5,000 load capacity there,making a total of 26,000 pounds loaded.(These figures are subject to change.) Please let me know if you see any giant holes in my plan! Better I get educated now by you good people than to get educated later by the Justice system! Tell ya what,though;if they find a cure for Diabetes in the near future,I really would like to get a CDL;it'd sure simplify a lot of what I do,while complicating what I'd HAVE to do...

Speed

[vanscottbuilders]

Charlie Hatfield is most always right when he posts here.

And - he is again!

One truck at a time and you will get finished. Otherwise you won't. Period.

Sometimes we get carried away with ourselves and our hair-brained ideas.

Excellent advice Charlie.

Paul Van Scott

[Rob]

They are not shifted very much and don't need to be.

Charlie, I would have to dispute your claim about auxillary transmissions and their usage. Auxillary transmissions are installed to bring the gear spacing closer together in the main transmission. In all of my old trucks, the auxillary transmissions are all shifted near three times for every upshift of the main transmission. Otherwise to shift as your post suggests, the engine is never within the proper torque band for pulling a load.

I can't imagine how my gas powered A-40 dump truck would haul 9.5 tons of sand if I didn't shift the auxillary transmission and relied solely on the main. I would proceed much slower than I'm able to now. Believe me, I use nearly every gear available when loaded heavy. I shift the 6231 "Brownie" like a duplex when empty as the shift points are too wide to not split them. This is very close in operation to my diesel powered trucks also.

Rob

[Speed]

Rob,I've discovered the shifter and shift linkage on my 6031 is getting loose enough that it binds sometimes,so until I can bring it to the house to work it over I just run through the main box and once I'm in 5th I shift the brownie from direct to over,and reverse that to downshift. Of course I haven't pulled much of a load with it recently,due to iffy brakes. (next on my list of things to rebuild. Maybe I'll work the brownie shifter and linkage while I wait for my brake shoes to get re-lined.) If I could see you shifting the brownie & main box,I'd be better able to understand the shift sequence you usse;I got so tired of going under the truck to un-jam the linkage I 'bout quit using the brownie except,as I said,to go into overdrive and back. I believe once the brownie can shift easier,I'll use it more.

Speed

[Rob]

Rob,I've discovered the shifter and shift linkage on my 6031 is getting loose enough that it binds sometimes,so until I can bring it to the house to work it over I just run through the main box and once I'm in 5th I shift the brownie from direct to over,and reverse that to downshift. Of course I haven't pulled much of a load with it recently,due to iffy brakes. (next on my list of things to rebuild. Maybe I'll work the brownie shifter and linkage while I wait for my brake shoes to get re-lined.) If I could see you shifting the brownie & main box,I'd be better able to understand the shift sequence you usse;I got so tired of going under the truck to un-jam the linkage I 'bout quit using the brownie except,as I said,to go into overdrive and back. I believe once the brownie can shift easier,I'll use it more.

Speed

Speed: If you have seen Larrys' video on the "two stick shifting" sequence, it is the same. Starting off from a standstill: I start off in 1st or 2nd in the main transmission, and the auxillary in Low, or underdrive; Accelerate, shift the auxillary to direct, accelerate, shift the auxillary to overdrive, accelerate, shift the main to the next higher gear and as I grab the auxillary trans shifter and pull it through neutral, I jab the accelerator pedal on and off to bring the engine rpms up and downshift the auxillary back to underdrive and proceed until in 5th gear on the main, and overdrive in the auxillary transmission. The only variance to this is from 4th gear in the main, and overdrive in the auxillary. I shift straight from 4th overdrive to 5th overdrive as the gear ratios are so close there is no reason to split the gears.

The above refers to my A-40 gas dump truck. The diesel B models are very similar in operation. The shifting rpm's are different of course due to nature of the designs but are exact in operation.

Downshifting is a reversal of the above. It really is quite simple once you get the hang of it.

If you get to repairing your shift linkage, (it should be very tight with no slop) remove it all. Don't try to piecemeal a repair; It will drive you nuts. Pull the top off of the auxillary and check for clearance on the shift fork also and build up with brass is necessary.

If you don't mind shipping the shoes I use a guy that will reline them and do you a real fine job. Real "old school" type individual that enjoys helping others.

Rob

[Speed]

Speed: If you have seen Larrys' video on the "two stick shifting" sequence, it is the same. Starting off from a standstill: I start off in 1st or 2nd in the main transmission, and the auxillary in Low, or underdrive; Accelerate, shift the auxillary to direct, accelerate, shift the auxillary to overdrive, accelerate, shift the main to the next higher gear and as I grab the auxillary trans shifter and pull it through neutral, I jab the accelerator pedal on and off to bring the engine rpms up and downshift the auxillary back to underdrive and proceed until in 5th gear on the main, and overdrive in the auxillary transmission. The only variance to this is from 4th gear in the main, and overdrive in the auxillary. I shift straight from 4th overdrive to 5th overdrive as the gear ratios are so close there is no reason to split the gears.

The above refers to my A-40 gas dump truck. The diesel B models are very similar in operation. The shifting rpm's are different of course due to nature of the designs but are exact in operation.

Downshifting is a reversal of the above. It really is quite simple once you get the hang of it.

If you get to repairing your shift linkage, (it should be very tight with no slop) remove it all. Don't try to piecemeal a repair; It will drive you nuts. Pull the top off of the auxillary and check for clearance on the shift fork also and build up with brass is necessary.

If you don't mind shipping the shoes I use a guy that will reline them and do you a real fine job. Real "old school" type individual that enjoys helping others.

Rob

Thanks Rob;

The info on shifting answered the main question I had. It had seemed to me the gear spread on the aux. box would be too wide to shift that way,but I haven't messed with it enough to really check it out. On my aux. box the shift pattern puts low clear to the right and forward,direct to the left and forward,and over is straight back from direct,seems kinda awkward. It doesn't help that the shifter is mounted way over on the right side of the main box,so I heated the shifter and bent it over closer to me then up so it was easier to reach. If I pull all the linkage and the shifter to re-build it I'm going to look into re-locating it somewhere more to the left and un-bend my previous work. A guy I worked for had several trucks with Brown-Lipes and he had the shifters on all of them mounted behing the shifter for the main transmission. Is that a common set up? I also want to see if there's a way to invert the bracket the linkage pivots on at the crossmember(the bellcrank??),so the shift pattern will be low,to the left and back,direct-to the right and back,and over,right and forward. I'm sure I'll catch on once I get everything to shift smoothly.

As far as shipping the brake shoes,that's what I had to do on my '51 Ford 1-1/2 ton when I did the brakes on it. Actually,I took them to a truck shop here and the parts man shipped 'em. My big concern is price,as gas prices and a 25% increase in my house payment has made the funds pretty tight for me. I know I'll have to pull the rear brakes apart and kit the wheel cylinders,and probably re-line the shoes;the front brakes seem yo work okay except for a sticking wheel cylinder on the R. F.,so I'll be kitting them too,after the rears are done. I havent had the drums off,so who knows what I'll find. Might do the wheel cylinders and run it a month or two while I get some money gathered to re-line the front shoes. I'll decide that once I have 'em apart for inspection. I still have to swap a couple of engines on my GMC's so I can move them and clear a space to work on the .

Speed