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The air and fuel filters were changed last fall, it didn't get better after that either. I'm going to start checking fuel lines for restrictions. Also I want to check the pump timing! I really need to fix this! It's my plow truck this year and most of my route is hills. This truck has a 10ft plow, 10ft wing and a 10 yrd sander.

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Why would it run worse when I disconnect the puffer?

you need the air pressure to go to the puffer,by disconnecting that line the puffer wont let the rack open,as the turbo builds air pressure in the manafold it goes to the puffer valve and lets the rack in the pump open,in other words to by pass this type of puffer you would need air pressure going to it all the time.

On the back of the puffer there's a screw that I backed out, now it's even worse! If I put a longer screw in there to hold the puffer open do you think that'll work?

I honestly dont know,i never messed with mine,truck runs great the way it is.

I'm no expert but I think you might have seperate problems. When you say you can't get it rolling from a stop it makes me think trans. May try changing the fluid and filter. As far as the engine problem sounds like a you are losing boost pressure somewhere. What will it build to when it finally builds boost?

I bought a 1989 e6 350 with a 9 SPD mack. The guy was a pure bred mack guy. He said he messed with the shims in his puffer for a couple weeks to get it perfect for him. That truck barely smoked, built boost pressure perfectly, had a ton of power and got over 8 mpg.

If its the one I'm thinkng of, take the puffer off, there will be a fuel plate in there. Slide it ahead for more power.

The air diafram was / is probably bad in that puffer, hence taking the spring out fixed it. You can take the plug out of the top and there is a star wheel that you turn with a screw driver (Like a brake adjuster on a car) that basically releases the spring tension. By rights, you can take the puffer off completely and just make a cover to cover the gov. housing...

The other style puffers just plug the line going to the pump.

That would be the fuel plate. If you took the spring out, dont worry about taking it off. To get more RPM, first be sure the throttle lever is opening all the way, should "cam over". After that there is a throttle stop on the pump the throttle arm hits. Have to disable the tamper proofing and then turn the screw in a couple turns. Check free RPM. shouldn't go over 2350 / 2400.

I need to find out what the RPM is. The cable is broke for the tach. I moved the plate forward when I took the spring out and the truck has alot more power at take off but not so much mid to full throttle. Where can I put a electronic RPM meter on this to get a accurite reading?

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