Exterior Cab Repair

[On The Road]

I have a 1959 Mack H67, like the one I drove over the road for McLean Trucking Co. in the early 60's. I am working on it now and have some questions. What is the best brand name for body filler for the repair of rusted our areas on the cab and doors?

[Rob]

I have a 1959 Mack H67, like the one I drove over the road for McLean Trucking Co. in the early 60's. I am working on it now and have some questions. What is the best brand name for body filler for the repair of rusted our areas on the cab and doors?

If I interpret your question correctly, you are asking for a plastic auto body filler to slap into rust holes; There is not a product on the market that will provide an adequate service life in this application.

I use Evercoat brand "Z-Grip" filler. For direct to metal groundcoat application, I use Evercoat "Metal to Metal" brand filler. There may be better products out there but with more than 20 years of use without a single failure of the products, I see no reason to change.

I'll help you any way I can, just ask.

Rob

[other dog]

Hello Double Diamond,I don't have a clue in answer to your question,but Rob has never been known to be wrong about anything...so far

I just saw "Double Diamond" and you already answered my question. That sure brings back some memories,haven't heard double diamond for a while. How long did you drive for McLean? I remember when they closed the doors-they were about the last company I would have expected to shut down at the time.

[rw613]

check into POR 15 PRODUCTS they have coatings that will stop the rust and fillers to use over them that are very very strong or evercoat products good luck

[On The Road]

If I interpret your question correctly, you are asking for a plastic auto body filler to slap into rust holes; There is not a product on the market that will provide an adequate service life in this application.

I use Evercoat brand "Z-Grip" filler. For direct to metal groundcoat application, I use Evercoat "Metal to Metal" brand filler. There may be better products out there but with more than 20 years of use without a single failure of the products, I see no reason to change.

I'll help you any way I can, just ask.

Rob

Rob,

I'm new to the form I hope you get this reply and thank you for the information. I will check up on Z-Grip and Metal to Metal by Evercoat. Thanks again for the help.

Double Diamond

[On The Road]

Hello Double Diamond,I don't have a clue in answer to your question,but Rob has never been known to be wrong about anything...so far

,

I just saw "Double Diamond" and you already answered my question. That sure brings back some memories,haven't heard double diamond for a while. How long did you drive for McLean? I remember when they closed the doors-they were about the last company I would have expected to shut down at the time.

other dog,

I am going to look up the products Rob listed, 20 years sounds good to me. I drove for McLean for about four years, first out of Winston Salem, NC then Charlston, WV and later, Richmond, VA. Yes it was a sad day when they shut down along with the rest of the old companies. Thanks for the Hello.

Double Diamond

[On The Road]

check into POR 15 PRODUCTS they have coatings that will stop the rust and fillers to use over them that are very very strong or evercoat products good luck

rw613,

I will look at POR 15 Products along with the Evercoat that Rob talked about. Thanks for your help.

Double Diamond

[Rob]

other dog,

I am going to look up the products Rob listed, 20 years sounds good to me. I drove for McLean for about four years, first out of Winston Salem, NC then Charlston, WV and later, Richmond, VA. Yes it was a sad day when they shut down along with the rest of the old companies. Thanks for the Hello.

Double Diamond

I have two uncles that drove for McLean in the good ole days too. Bill, and Bob Denton. Both are originally from south central Illinois. Bill has passed on, Bob is still kicking and owns a feed store in Effingham, IL. I never got to ask Bill about the trucks they ran, but Bob preferred the "L", and "B" model Macks.

Rob

[other dog]

other dog,

I am going to look up the products Rob listed, 20 years sounds good to me. I drove for McLean for about four years, first out of Winston Salem, NC then Charlston, WV and later, Richmond, VA. Yes it was a sad day when they shut down along with the rest of the old companies. Thanks for the Hello.

Double Diamond

I've probably been 3 trucks behind you on the W.V. Turnpike before and didn't know it

[other dog]

the "double diamonds". Couldn't find any McLean Mack pictures, mostly GMCs, some Whites,and Internationals.

[rw613]

I have a 1959 Mack H67, like the one I drove over the road for McLean Trucking Co. in the early 60's. I am working on it now and have some questions. What is the best brand name for body filler for the repair of rusted our areas on the cab and doors?

are you in virgina

[vanscottbuilders]

Double Diamond,

I've been following this post for a few days, and I agree with everyone's

advice. The POR products are great, if used properly. And Rob is a

professional with a lot of experience.

The one bit of advice I think is missing, however, is -

Don't forget your Zip Wheel grinder and welded metal patches.

Over the years of doing vehicle restorations, and going to shows and

seeing vehicles with older restorations, I have seen a lot of projects that

probably looked really nice when they were done; but a few years later

after all the synthetic products have had a chance to loosen and shrink,

they don't look too good at all.

A metal patch properly done requires very little filler, if any. And it will

always look good. It can't shake loose, won't shrink, won't crack and is

done pretty easily. Small MIG welders have become very affordable, and

acetylene gas welding is accomplished pretty easily with practice.

Don't forget to treat the inner side of the repair against further rust.

This can be as simple as spraying some LPS-4 clinging oil on

the inner surface to seal out the oxygen. (Obviously after you're done welding)

Good Luck with your project.

Paul Van Scott

[Rob]

Double Diamond,

I've been following this post for a few days, and I agree with everyone's

advice. The POR products are great, if used properly. And Rob is a

professional with a lot of experience.

The one bit of advice I think is missing, however, is -

Don't forget your Zip Wheel grinder and welded metal patches.

Over the years of doing vehicle restorations, and going to shows and

seeing vehicles with older restorations, I have seen a lot of projects that

probably looked really nice when they were done; but a few years later

after all the synthetic products have had a chance to loosen and shrink,

they don't look too good at all.

A metal patch properly done requires very little filler, if any. And it will

always look good. It can't shake loose, won't shrink, won't crack and is

done pretty easily. Small MIG welders have become very affordable, and

acetylene gas welding is accomplished pretty easily with practice.

Don't forget to treat the inner side of the repair against further rust.

This can be as simple as spraying some LPS-4 clinging oil on

the inner surface to seal out the oxygen. (Obviously after you're done welding)

Good Luck with your project.

Paul Van Scott

It may or may not be right, but it does work for me:

I use an air cutoff wheel grinder with a 1/8th thickness wheel to eliminate the rust area(s). The surrounding metal to the repair must be sound. Make a patch that is slightly larger than the area that is cut out, and spot, or tack weld into place. After this is solid, stitch weld in 1" steps to make the panel as one. Grind flat, use "Metal to Metal" on, and over the patch area, knock this down with either 24, or 36 grit paper, then use "Z-Grip" over the top for a second and third, (if needed) coat. Finish sand with 180, prime with a good quality primer/surfacer, let dry and sand smooth with 320-500 grit sandpaper. I prefer wet paper with a splash of dishsoap in the water.

I don't do this type of work very often anymore, but here are a few photos to maybe help. I was alone in the shop last Thursday so couldn't snap pictures when either cutting, or welding, but pretty easy to see the results.

Be sure and rustproof the underside or the repair will not last long. I use "Rust-free" rustproof/undercoating products. The stuff dries to a wax like film that is not going away easily and does a great job of sealing these area(s).

Rob

[On The Road]

To all that have replied,

The response has been far more that I expected and I am most happy to be able to share with each of you. The advice you have given will be put to use and I thank you for it.

The trucks McLean had when I was driving for them were GMC 860's (cannonball) and Crackerboxes they also had some White 7400's and White Mustangs. The Mack H67's were mostly in Belle, WV, right out of Charleston on rt60 at the McLean terminal. They were good in the mountains.

You may have seen me on the WV Turnpike but back then it only went to Beckley and going to Winston-Salem we took 60 through Ansted to 19 to 52 and down Fancy Gap. The Turnpike had some bad curves that were graded bad, as you know.

I am in NC.

Double Diamond