Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I am restoring a 1955 B61T Mack and the rear end has been changed to an Eaton electric two-speed. I want to remove the two-speed motor and gear box so I can detail the rear end.

Question One - Does anyone know how to get the motor and gear box off?

Question Two - When I pulled the brake drums, there was an inner and outer seal on the inboard bearing. What is the proper way to reinstall this, should I fill it with oil first?

Question Three - It has an END673, runs great, changing gaskets and seals, rear crank seal does not leak.... it has been sitting for the past 35 years, should I change the seal and if I should, what is the best way to do this? I am curious about the lead that is included in the kit, I haven't seen this setup before. I need to know what to look for if I do change it.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. :)

Russell

Link to comment
https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/3822-electric-two-speed-motor/
Share on other sites

it's been a long,long time since I worked on a 2 speed motor,but best I can remember they only had 2 bolts-or 2 studs coming from the rear end housing,just take the nuts off,disconnect the wires,and it comes right off. They have a rubber diaphram in it to keep rear end grease out of it because they take a really thin oil in the gear box,and there's a fork coming from the rear that just slides over the moving part in the box that changes the ratio.I know that's very general,but it's probably been 30+ years since I had one off. Only maintenance I remember doing to one is cleaning it out and replacing those diaphrams,because if rear end grease gets in them it's so thick they shift slow or not at all,just gums them up.

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

Other dog is right and on the engine rear seal that is a dust cover or dust seal. The crank has a slinger on it that slings the oil away from the rear and the cover that goes around the crank has a thin grouve that the lead wire in pushed do in and you should roll it in about half way or so and then you push the cover over the crank to fit the lead wire to fit.The trans has to come out to change. The seal does not dry up and get hard over time so i would not change it. If it is leaking then it is leaking because there is too much blow/by in the crankcase and nothing but a overhaul will cure that. The front seal i would change it when it started to leak. It will have a felt type seal in it and maybe a lip seal behind it.

glenn akers

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...