Dumb Question - No Power

[markpwhit]

Have a problem with the U795. Put the batteries in it about a month ago and had no problem getting it running. After I had it running I pulled the batteries and placed them inside so I could keep a charge on them

Yesterday I reinstalled the batteries and I can't get the thing to even turn over. The batteries are not the best but my charger shows them taking a decent charge (thinking enough to at least turn it over). On top of it I am not getting any juice to get any of the lights to illuminate.

Not sure what the problem is as I have not done anything to the truck (mechanically) since I had it running last month. Any advice or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance................Mark

[Phase 1]

My guess is corrosion on the battery terminals or cable ends. The juice isn't getting through somewhere. Clean up the contact points. If not, a light tester or multi meter will tell you where the problem is.

[41chevy]

Check the cables, particularly the ground and use a Hydrometer to check for a weak or dead cell or cells. You can get an inexpensive one at Tractor Supply. Napa or even Wal Mart.

[fxfymn]

Positive or negative ground?? Are you sure you got them on right?

[theakerstwo]

Why don't guys that don't know trucks just take a photo of the parts before they start removing anything?

[mrsmackpaul]

how many batteries does it have ? sounds like you have them connected up wrong and arent completing the circuit can you take a pic of the batteries to show your connections ?

apart from that it sounds like a crook connection I dont think it will be a crook battery as there is no power at all

Paul

[Timmyb]

I agree with Paul.

Tim.

[Swishy]

Trickle charger not turnd on or crook connection = flat batteries

[farmer52]

I had a bad experience with a trickle charger/battery maintainer. The charger showed full charge but the battery was dead (bad cell).

As others have posted, check the batteries to be sure they are holding a charge, check cables, clean connections, and connect properly. If it still does not "crank" then you can start looking elsewhere. Until you confirm charge and connections it is a "shot in the dark".

P.S. Since it is a U model, maybe you need to install them on the "right" side. Sorry Vinny!

[markpwhit]

To all - thanks for the feedback. I know for fact that they are/were connected properly as I have previously taken photos and even marked the cables as to what cable is positive and negative when I first got it. At this point I think it is a battery problem - but will push on to get an answer.

Thanks again.............Mark

[grayhair]

Assuming connected correctly, clean tight terminals, and all that has been said above, either the batteries are not really charged or a bad cell in one or more of them. One other thought... You said you take the batteries inside to charge them. If you disconnect the charger but leave the batteries sitting on a concrete floor they will slowly discharge. Something about concrete floors and batteries. Nobody has ever been able to explain it to me but it seems to be fact. Better not to let them sit on concrete. Sit them em on a board or work bench or something. Good luck with it.

[41chevy]

Charge them up with them off the concrete and let them stabilize for an hour or 2 (it allows the surface charge to dissipate) and check each cell with a hydrometer. That will give you an answer to the cells being good, weak or bad. Good test, goes back about 100 years an still accurate.

Don't use a digital charger, they will NOT charge any battery with a lower charge than half it's full voltage. They will if you lie to the charger with a fully charged battery linked to the "dead one" Guess how I learned that! Paul

$8 at A Zone

[Timmyb]

Is there a circuit breaker the has popped out?

[mrsmackpaul]

are you sure the earth is conected to the chassis propeerly quite iften they have corrosian under neath might want pull it of and clean the chassis proberly with some and paper

Paul

[markpwhit]

To all;

Thank you for your help. Did some research this weekend and found out it is the solenoid on the driver side firewall. Had the brother in law over to help and he by-passed it with a heavy gauge wire and it fired right up. Ran great but still didn't have any power to the lights, gauges, etc. Is it fair to assume this solenoid is bad and what is the technical term for it. New to the game and just trying to make sure I purchase the correct part. The solenoid in question is right below the bus gallery for all of the truck wiring.

Thanks again..................Mark

[markpwhit]

Ok - figured out the starting problem, had a bad solenoid. I think it is an ignition solenoid but just not sure. It is located on the firewall right in front of the steering wheel.

Replaced it and seems to be working okay as it is starting properly.

But - I still don't have any power to any gauges, lights, etc. I found that there is another solenoid right at the fuse box area and was wondering if this might be it - or is there a in-line fuse somewhere that I am overlooking.

Any advice/help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[alex g]

Check cables running to solenoid I had a bad connection on mine and had similar problem it wasn't the solenoid for me it was bad cable end

[felicello122]

The one in the dash is responsible for accessories,like lights and heater, etc, not very expensive wouldn't hurt to replace, sounds like it is bad, they usually make a click sound when you first turn on the key

[markpwhit]

Felicello - That is exactly what is happening as it most certainly making a clicking sound when I turn the ignition on. I appreciate the feedback from all.

Mark