53 L Model front wheel spindle nut torque?

[rollintall62]

Gentleman,

I am wrapping up a front axle rebuild on my 53 L Model . I was wondering if anyone had or knew the torque spec for the front spindle bearing nut OR an accepted procedure for tightening them. Typically I used to torque them to 200 ft lbs then back off 1 full turn and torque to 50lbs (all while rotating the wheel). Any thoughts or recommendations appreciated!

[j hancock]

I don't think that I would run it up to 200 lbs. but spin the wheel and tighten it up until you get some pretty good drag. Back it off to the to the next spot in the castle nut.

Here is some previous discussion from the other day.

http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/39715-b-61-front-wheel-bearings/

[rollintall62]

Sounds good, any thoughts on "modern" red grease. She had gnarly brown yellowish in there before. I would think the red is better as it is rated for higher heat before it melts. Couldnt find any literature on this. Thanks again!!!

[Gmerrill0516]

As long as the bearing is in good shape I'd guess any grease would be fine unless you plan on driving it coast to coast. DO NOT torque that nut to anything near 200 ft-lbs. You will damage the bearing and posibly the spindle and nut!!! You need to get it to escentially a zero lash condition and then back it off a little and lock it. 1/6 turn back when using a castle nut and cotter pin and 1/3 turn back when using a second nut to jam the first. The latter takes the force of the jamb nut into account and leaves adequate clearance for expansion under a heated condition. It shouldn't be loose so that it clunks and it should turn "freely" and not drag when done. I think the end play is valid as mentioned in the other forum.

Find a big wrench you can use to turn it but again, no torque wrench and certainly not more than enough torque to snug the bearing...torquing that assembly will be a problem for all of the parts. If I had to put a number on it I would say maybe 20 ft-lbs but that is not how you do it...good and snug then back it off and turn the hub as you snug it up to make sure you fully seat the bearings into the races.

Pack those bearings right and place some extra grease inside the hub at each bearing for good measure. You don't have to fill it.

[j hancock]

Good quality bearing grease will work. No need to get fancy. You are not going to be building a lot of heat as long as the bearing is good and adjusted properly.

[gearhead204]

I dont have a problem with the 200 lbs. to seat the brgs, but 50 seems tight to me for a finish adjustment. i would loosen the nut after the 200 untill all preload is off the nut, then bring it up untill the nut contacts the bearing shulder then chek lock ring if nessary go tighter untill lock ring index's. remember a over tightened bearing will fail way before a loose one will. As for the grease i would fill the hub to 80% of full this will keep water (condensation) from harming the brgs. or spindle and still leave room for expansen when heated during use.

[Vladislav]

If you follow the link posted above all I wrote there was straight related to your front axle bearings.

As for grease you can use any newer bearing grease since it's just much more thermo resistant.

I mean any newer, a cheapest modern grease will work better than a stuff people put in those bearings 70 years back.

Vlad

[hatcity]

rollintail-your procedure (200/50) is for oil bath bearings. Thats how I do mine -2001 CX

the grease type don't need the seal to seat the same