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In diaging fuel loss into the oil I took the pan down and found a smashed up roller in the bottom of it. Got the front of the engine apart and the oil pan, trying now to access the rear seal. which was leaking early on in this issue. I'm thinking the whole trans has to slide back, but someone said there might be access thru a cover. I don't see it. This does have an Eaton trans, and all I've got are the 2 pto mounts not even close to the cam, and 2 inspection covers, neither of them on the right side of the flywheel to help. Am I missing something on this flywheel cover before I pull a whole trans that I didn't need to pull or were they just wrong?

If you are referring to the rear crankshaft seal, the transmission, clutch and flywheel need to come out to replace it. If your leak is higher up behind the cam, there is a steel cup plug in the block cam bore. the flywheel housing needs to come off to replace the plug.

Thanks - that's what I'd heard for the cam seal and the cup there - how do you get that without removing the trans, though? This picture looks about right, cause my computer keeps taking pics too dark under my truck, but it looks like it's sandwiched between the motor and the trans without anywhere it splits to remove it without taking the others down. I got my PTOs off to make sure they weren't interfering, but there doesn't seem to be a split up under the PTO mounts either.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MACK-ALUMINUM-FLYWHEEL-HOUSING-634GC5337M-E7-ENGINE-/391105089034

The EBAY listing is a E-TECH flywheel housing, it seals oil around the back of the block. Older style housings had a "drain" in the housing at the cam area, all that drain did was to allow water and dirt to get in and corrode the plug, newer housings don't have the drain because of that problem. there are no covers on the flywheel housing if its leaking between the block and housing you'll have to pull it off to fix the leak. Hope this helps.

Yeah, this is a 99. The issue wasn't so much corrosion, but the fact that fuel got in the oil and by the time the driver stopped he'd heard a noise from the motor and lost power. Not counting the several gallons on the ground, I measured an excess 7 gallons I removed from the motor itself. I think it just over pressured and blew it out, but it's leaking oil now basically right at the flywheel housing where it meets the block at the EUP line and the broken roller, which Mack said you do the cam and lifters to fix. Tearing out the front - no problem at all, but getting at the rear to get the new rear seal in is becoming quite a pain. I've got the lifter holder tool coming, so it shouldn't be a problem putting the cam back in if I can just get this one cup and seal.

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