Building a shop

[mowerman]

my old lady promises next fall i will start mine.....lets hope so ,,,and best of luck with yours ...lol.bob

[Gmerrill0516]

In The People's republic, floor drains are only to keep stuff from going out the door and go into a tank that you have to mainatin and empty etc. You can't polute or chance poluting the ground with melting snow etc. I believe Dad had to plug his up in NH as well. Shops are always too small so build build as much as you can afford. In the northern areas, snow sliding off a pitched roof is a hazard. Doors out under the eaves can get tricky. I know one guy with a building who wishes he had a flat roof instead of the pitched roof..I'm not sure that is the answer but something to consider. The stuff you put up to keep the snow from sliding off and killing you is only a marginal measure as well. They fail or tear loose so the snow slides and the roof needs patching...a real pain.

[68-f-model]

I can't emphasize the importance of insulating under the slab ( I am talking inches of insulation) if you leave it out you had better be prepared for high heat bills. You want to completely isolate the slab from the ground with insulation on the bottom and sides. Its a little late to try and add it after the slab is poured. A poorly planed radiant system is nothing but a waste of money and will never reach its desired efficiency or heat output.

[thomastractorsvc]

My neighbor had a heating ac company that specializes in radiant floor make the plan and install so you would have to think it would be good with 4 inches of foam under the concrete and 2 on the side going down 18 inches

I agree that type of heating has a place but if I were to build a new large shop that's not were I would spend my money I think spray foam and a quality overhead radiant heat system would be less expensive to purchase,run and operate.

waste oil is a waste the Acoe shop here has gone through 2 systems and have now switched heat source to propane. The waste oil was messy and constantly needing cleaning to work right and filter and heated oil

[68-f-model]

Heating a 40x60 shop with 16 ft ceilings will cost regardless of radiant or forced air.

I am curious what his bills are with forced air.

Mainly insulate, insulate, insulate. Best use of any money in a new shop. If possible do the insides of the walls and ceiling in sheet plastic before insulating to stop any cold air from blowing in and hot air from leaking out. You won't believe the difference 8mil plastic can make all by its self.

[41chevy]

My old shop I had low RPM ceiling fans to move the heat down from the ceiling. I will be using spray foam insulation and an insulated slab in the Va. shop, additional lighting (each pair on a switch) 10 feet up on the wall will be installed also. Makes a great difference when needed.

I have been looking at Quartz type heating. The quartz heats things not the air. A friend had it installed in his tire shop, even with the doors open in the winter your warm.

Power wise, I need 240 3 phase for my machine shop equipment and my large welder. A diesel back up power unit in also mandatory for me for both house and shop when built.

[Dirtymilkman]

My main shop is 40x72 with a 15ft ceiling. One 14x14 overhead door and 2 10x10 overhead doors. In Minnesota here I was spending about $2600 a winter to heat with forced air. Just normal batting insulation in the walls and blown in fiberglass insulation in the ceiling. I also have a couple trucks going out and coming in each day. Forced air furnace was my main heat. Went to radiant tube heaters and I use LESS THAN HALF of the propane. Plus no dust blows around and it doesn't feel drafty.

[JTFormula]

Bathroom bathroom bathroom! Nothing fancy but I would make sure you put in a stand up shower stall as well for those days when you are a complete mess. Keeps the wife happy.

a fridge for libations.

If you plumb in metal air lines make sure you have several connections outside around the building.

Consider a loft to store parts, small equipment, dead hookers etc off the floor and out of the way. Under it can be the couch/TV/poker area. Or flip it and put the parts below and mancave above so you have a birds eye view of the shop.

Shelving is also very important. HD steel or make your own from wood. The box store shelves don't hold up with heavy pieces well.

WIFI and laptop - you never know when you need to search the net for info/parts

Stripper pole

[41chevy]

Bathroom w/shower is a good idea!

The one thing in my new shop the is mandatory for me, is a hard piped Fire Sprinkler System and Smoke and Heat detectors. too much of an investment to not protect and makes a difference with insurance too.

[HeavyGunner]

Lots of good ideas guys, keep 'em coming! Dirtymilkman-I assume to be effective overhead radiant heat tubes would have to be hung relatively low to work. Is that right? If so it would negate high ceilings. I don't know a thing about them. Saw them in a guys garage with 8' ceilings so they were mounted flush or close to it which is why I ask.

[Dirtymilkman]

Lots of good ideas guys, keep 'em coming! Dirtymilkman-I assume to be effective overhead radiant heat tubes would have to be hung relatively low to work. Is that right? If so it would negate high ceilings. I don't know a thing about them. Saw them in a guys garage with 8' ceilings so they were mounted flush or close to it which is why I ask.

Its actually quite the opposite. Infrared or radiant tube heaters(people call them both names) are excellent very high up. They don't heat the air, they heat objects. Its hard to explain. You feel the heat from them but there's no air movement. My dad's one shop has them hanging 18' in the air. And they work excellent. Most installers wont install them below 10'

[HeavyGunner]

Ok good to know, another option I will definitely look into. I would like the floor heated simply because I plan on spending the long winters out there. That being said an extra layer of clothing and a creeper can fix that problem as well when I'm on the floor.

[Dirtymilkman]

I'd still insulate the floor regardless of what way you go for heat. You can also run the wirsbo in the floor and not hook it up till later

[Maddog13407]

at least two blocks high to keep the walls from rotting and water off them and DONT use black metal pipe for air lines. regardless if you have a filter or not, the moisture still makes rust inside and it will ruin a good paint job when the rust particles go thru your spray gun. 220 welding outlets by the door is another good one that's mentioned. most states frown on floor drains and most insurance companies frown on grease pits.

[41chevy]

at least two blocks high to keep the walls from rotting and water off them and DONT use black metal pipe for air lines. regardless if you have a filter or not, the moisture still makes rust inside and it will ruin a good paint job when the rust particles go thru your spray gun. 220 welding outlets by the door is another good one that's mentioned. most states frown on floor drains and most insurance companies frown on grease pits.

My shop on L.I. all the air lines are Parker Transair. Aluminum. rates at 230 psi @ -4 to + 115 F and only up to 190 psi at 140 F. I'll use them in Va also. PEX style fittings or compression clamps, flex line to do corners and not major event to install. Made for industrial applications with air, chemical, inert gas or oils. Accepted under the Uniform Building Code too. Paul

http://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/product-overview/piping-systems/air-pipe-systems/rigid-aluminum-pipe

[mrsmackpaul]

Well Im learning heaps about that cold place you blokes live in we use plastic for air lines in work shops out hear quicker to put in and lasts for ever and you wont get any of those spots when your spray painting

My mate puts a Tee were each air outlet is and takes the pipe further down the wall with a bung or a tap at them bottom so he can drain any moisture out other wise it gets trapped in the pipe

I would have thought with all the foam in your work shops a good fire system would be a must as once a fire got going I would have thought you would struggle to put it out

Most people out here have at least one power outlet out side for cutting things up with the grinder its a lot safer than using it inside I know Ive set fire to heaps of stuff even me with 9 inch grinder

So what you blokes do with your oil and stuff I gather you wont be allowed to use as weed killer around the shed ???

Sounds like these sheds are going to be flash bits of gear Im surprised no big screen TV to watch the footy (foot ball for you lot )A couple of Jason recliners

the list could go on and on

Paul

[41chevy]

The foam is fire resistant if you go commercial residential grade. Hate TV except the history channel.

[Ezrider]

i don't have radiant floor heat just forced air heat on natural gas. spray foam insulation. radiant floor heat would be nice but never been a problem for me. i keep the shop about 45* in the winter time witch feels warm compared to the -45 outside. heat bills this last winter ran around 100 per month. but i am in a shop condo. and share some interior walls with other shops.

loft storage is good i wish i had more of it. my bathroom has a interior roof of sorts. i laid some 3/4 plywood over the top and built some stairs leading up there for some loft storage.

when i eventually build a shop of my own (i rent my current shop) i plan a a cold storage room built off the shop for parts storage spare tires things like that.

i would like to have dual heat source natural gas and waste oil. then i would set up the nat gas to kick in below 40 or so and kick the waste oil in when im working in the shop.