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Where'd Mack hide the sensor on the T2180B trans? I'm thinking that's why the backup light/alarm as well as the "R" idiot light quit working on me last week...but I can't see where any wires are coming out of the transmission other than for the speed sensor at the rear. Would it be on the top (out of sight)? If so, what's the best way to get to it? I'm thinking if it IS on the top, it would be easier to remove the rubber shift boot to go through the floor rather than work blind reaching up from underneath....

...need to get it fixed before the mines decide to check and then refuse to let me go in to load...or before MSHA tries writing me a ticket for not having an operational backup alarm in the mine :wacko: Worst case scenario (if I can't find the dang thing), I suppose I can rig something up that'll work by running a hot wire to the alarm from a switch inside the truck to manually turn on the buzzer whenever I need to back up, but I'd prefer to fix it right.

When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way!
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  • 2 weeks later...

...OK, so the new reverse sensor is in and it STILL isn't working :pat: ...no backup light, no backup alarm, and no "R" idiot light on the dash. Is there a fuse in that circuit anywhere that I should be looking for? Or should I be looking for a loose connection or short?

When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way!
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Fuse 18 does the back up lights on ch/cl up to 1998 or non Etech engines. On 1999 and up Etech engined models its fuse 42 out under the hood.

Thanks...found the burnt out fuse....now just gotta buy a tiny little 20 amp replacement. :thumb:

When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way!
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Thanks...found the burnt out fuse....now just gotta buy a tiny little 20 amp replacement. :thumb:

A blown fuse is an indication, or result of a high current draw in the circuit it is protecting. There must be a problem in the circuitry that caused this result that needs addressed.

Buy more than a single replacement until your troubleshooting reveals the reason for the blown fuse in the first place.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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A blown fuse is an indication, or result of a high current draw in the circuit it is protecting. There must be a problem in the circuitry that caused this result that needs addressed.

Buy more than a single replacement until your troubleshooting reveals the reason for the blown fuse in the first place.

Rob

After I bought the truck, I ran a wire from the hot wire going to the back-up alarm up to a switch on the dash and back down to the alarm so that I could shut it off when I'm backing into the driveway at 2 AM or anytime I'm in a truckstop....I was planning on retracing those wires to make sure they weren't rubbing on anything they...maybe it was just close enough to the 20 amps that the extra wire length along with the lighted switch was enough to blow it...not sure what the draw is on the back-up light/back-up alarm/idiot light is supposed to be...

Truck's going to Mack over Labor Day weekend to get the overhead run and I'm going to have them quote me a price on getting that leak on the rear axle taken care of too...if I blow another fuse and can't find the reason by then, I'll have them trace the problem too....either that or I'll up the fuse to a 25 amp and see if that blows. :blink:

I hate electrical problems :pat:

When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way!
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After I bought the truck, I ran a wire from the hot wire going to the back-up alarm up to a switch on the dash and back down to the alarm so that I could shut it off when I'm backing into the driveway at 2 AM or anytime I'm in a truckstop....I was planning on retracing those wires to make sure they weren't rubbing on anything they...maybe it was just close enough to the 20 amps that the extra wire length along with the lighted switch was enough to blow it...not sure what the draw is on the back-up light/back-up alarm/idiot light is supposed to be...

Truck's going to Mack over Labor Day weekend to get the overhead run and I'm going to have them quote me a price on getting that leak on the rear axle taken care of too...if I blow another fuse and can't find the reason by then, I'll have them trace the problem too....either that or I'll up the fuse to a 25 amp and see if that blows. :blink:

I hate electrical problems :pat:

Determine the electrical load of the circuit before you up the protection via a larger fuse rating.

I don't like electrical problems either but they have put food on the table for a good many years.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Determine the electrical load of the circuit before you up the protection via a larger fuse rating.

I don't like electrical problems either but they have put food on the table for a good many years.

Rob

so far the 20 amp fuse is working...not like I have the switch turned on all the time...just when I'm at the mines or at a construction site which requires it...

anyway, thanks for all the help. I never even thought to look for a second fuse box under the hood...looked at the one in the dash and didn't see a fuse burned out, so assumed it was the switch...

...how many more fuse boxes does this thing have? Just the 2? or is there another one hiding somewhere that I should be aware of in case there are more electrical fuses blown in the future? :wacko:

When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way!
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so far the 20 amp fuse is working...not like I have the switch turned on all the time...just when I'm at the mines or at a construction site which requires it...

anyway, thanks for all the help. I never even thought to look for a second fuse box under the hood...looked at the one in the dash and didn't see a fuse burned out, so assumed it was the switch...

...how many more fuse boxes does this thing have? Just the 2? or is there another one hiding somewhere that I should be aware of in case there are more electrical fuses blown in the future? :wacko:

There is usually just a pair of circuit protection "fuseblocks" in most motor vehicles. The underhood blocks are usually for the high current draw items like electric fans, window motors and such. That is why there are "Maxi" style fuses. They tend to be a "slo-blow" type of arrangement.

It may be in your best interest to invest in an inexpensive inductive ammeter obtainable at most any parts store. These are not meant to be a permanent install. You just lay the trough on the backside onto the wire of the circuit you want to check with the circuit operating. The meter will give you a general idea of current draw in amperes. These are great because you don't have to break into the circuit.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Was the old sensor dead shorted internally? That would have blown the fuse also, then after replacing the sensor it would take a new fuse to get it working again.

Something to consider.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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  • 13 years later...
  • 6 months later...
  • 7 months later...

fuse 41 in the fuse box under the hood by the steering column..  Do the reverse lights work, and it s just the indicator light?   Manual tranny has a switch in the top for reverse. 2 wires going to it..  

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