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Ducky -

Where are you finding these repair panels?

Thanks,

Paul Van Scott

Hello, a Mack dealer in Australia. but you have to get a parts guy that knows how to look in a book and cross referance and then translate to another number and go on a computer. i am dealing with a shop in Brisbane.

most cant do that, they want a chassis number, then when they punch that into computer it says to old and they say sorry cant help.

that panel pictured is about 500.00AUD and there is a heap in sydney. there is also a brand new cab in sydney for 34,000.00

have 3 more panels to pic up today

Grant

Hello, a Mack dealer in Australia. but you have to get a parts guy that knows how to look in a book and cross referance and then translate to another number and go on a computer. i am dealing with a shop in Brisbane.

most cant do that, they want a chassis number, then when they punch that into computer it says to old and they say sorry cant help.

that panel pictured is about 500.00AUD and there is a heap in sydney. there is also a brand new cab in sydney for 34,000.00

have 3 more panels to pic up today

Grant

That's about right Grant. The last passenger side outer skin panel that I bought was $430.00 about a year and a half ago.

That panel looked OEM by the photo. $34,000.00 for a new cab??? Someone really wants to own it forever!! Probably wants to be buried in it too.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

34,000 thats for a complete finished cab correct? A local guy just replaced his Cab on his 80s valuliner. It was from the local mack dealer and I thought it was 20-30K for a complete cab??

For reference: In 1997 I replaced a cab on a 1997 CH-613 daycab tractor, (electrical fire damage) with a 12,400 mile original that was complete. The donor truck rolled over with a frameless dump and stuck grain. The only damage to the donor cab was where the passenger mirror destroyed the door. The cab came with a new OEM door shell, and all replacement window and latch parts from another truck. The air lines were cut in front of the valves leaving everything intact for an easy swap. The wiring was not cut, but rather, unplugged.

I paid $6500.00 for this complete, and it even had the upgraded interior with twin air seats, and nice interior decor package. Although I did drive 230 miles to retreive it, I was very comfortable as if it would have been my truck, it would have been rebuilt. The complete job including full repaint did not cross $15,000.00. In fact I gutted the cab out, replaced all the glass with used, bleached the entire cab to rid it of burnt electrical smell, had it media blasted, then primed, and sold it to a guy who probably still runs it. Structurally it was not hurt, and there was no damage, or warp at all.

$34,000.00 is a lot of money in my book any angle it is looked at. R model cabs can be had a lot less expensive than CH models most any day I've found. In fact I purchased a very nice rust free bare cab without dents for my RL-755L at less than $700.00 just last year. Good trucks and parts are out there, one just has to be patient to find them.

I admire your "drive" to rebuild that truck. I've seen a lot better scrapped. I'm sure you have some experience with autobody work or you would never expend the sizeable funds you ultimately will for parts and supplies. Just don't give up once you start!

I've rebuilt several through the years and if I can help, just ask!

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

For reference: In 1997 I replaced a cab on a 1997 CH-613 daycab tractor, (electrical fire damage) with a 12,400 mile original that was complete. The donor truck rolled over with a frameless dump and stuck grain. The only damage to the donor cab was where the passenger mirror destroyed the door. The cab came with a new OEM door shell, and all replacement window and latch parts from another truck. The air lines were cut in front of the valves leaving everything intact for an easy swap. The wiring was not cut, but rather, unplugged.

I paid $6500.00 for this complete, and it even had the upgraded interior with twin air seats, and nice interior decor package. Although I did drive 230 miles to retreive it, I was very comfortable as if it would have been my truck, it would have been rebuilt. The complete job including full repaint did not cross $15,000.00. In fact I gutted the cab out, replaced all the glass with used, bleached the entire cab to rid it of burnt electrical smell, had it media blasted, then primed, and sold it to a guy who probably still runs it. Structurally it was not hurt, and there was no damage, or warp at all.

$34,000.00 is a lot of money in my book any angle it is looked at. R model cabs can be had a lot less expensive than CH models most any day I've found. In fact I purchased a very nice rust free bare cab without dents for my RL-755L at less than $700.00 just last year. Good trucks and parts are out there, one just has to be patient to find them.

I admire your "drive" to rebuild that truck. I've seen a lot better scrapped. I'm sure you have some experience with autobody work or you would never expend the sizeable funds you ultimately will for parts and supplies. Just don't give up once you start!

I've rebuilt several through the years and if I can help, just ask!

Rob

Hi, 34k is from Mack for that cab, i assume its complete??thankyou for your comments, will finish it. its going to cost around 5k in parts to fix the rust on this cab, atleast it will be rust free by then, poor thing is collapseing its that bad. 3 more panels turned up today. this is an easy job, just time consumeing, its all just repair or replace. I am all so building a replica Bat mobile from the dark knight so the Mack is an easy project compared to the ground up build of the Tumbler.

post-2194-1217945762_thumb.jpg

post-2194-1217945807_thumb.jpg

Hi Grant, I recongnize the inner roof support above the sunvisor area(s), and the floor stiffener but what is the part centered between the two?

I've never bought one of those before.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

hey grand do not use all the parts by yourself.mayby i need some of them for my cab.lol.

The middle item is the inner section above the door, when you open the door and look up at cab, thats what your looking at.

i need all these panels, but more are available, just let me know what you want and i will price it for you.

Grant

The middle item is the inner section above the door, when you open the door and look up at cab, thats what your looking at.

Grant

Ahh, yes. The orientation of the part in the photo is not how it is mounted onto the perimeter of the door aperture opening. I've never had to purchase one of those, always made them.

I must say, "You're going after it right".

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Ahh, yes. The orientation of the part in the photo is not how it is mounted onto the perimeter of the door aperture opening. I've never had to purchase one of those, always made them.

I must say, "You're going after it right".

Rob

I am only doing it once! then if it falls to bits i can ask why, rather than go well thats because i was a slacko and took a short cut.

i flipped cab onto its back today, am going to do work undernieth and brace it a little more so i can run some beems through to solid mount it to the 60inch bunk, then make cab and bunk air ride. :D and also will pad under floor, i will be able to here a mouse fart when engine running :D

Grant

I am only doing it once! then if it falls to bits i can ask why, rather than go well thats because i was a slacko and took a short cut.

i flipped cab onto its back today, am going to do work undernieth and brace it a little more so i can run some beems through to solid mount it to the 60inch bunk, then make cab and bunk air ride. :D and also will pad under floor, i will be able to here a mouse fart when engine running :D

Grant

started cutting out the rust on right side today. am running out of cab. will have a new inner and outer sill soon.

post-2194-1218117540_thumb.jpg

youll have nothing left if you keep going at this rate, why dont you just pretend you are in england build the cab out of timber frame then put some tin sheeting on the outside, it worked for them !!!!! :P

thats a thought, but um unfortunately the Cutty Sark burnt down, so wiill avoid wood. I um got a phone call today someone looking for a cab for his R model because his had to much rust in it around the top. :D i tried selling him the flintstone cab i have but wants a plastic dash cab, he is going to chabge his mind when he sees how bad this cab is an hopefully fixs his.??

Grant

  • 3 months later...

Hi all, I just bought another cab, this one has no rust at all. it has come off a 1989 valueliner, they are scrapping the truck because it dropped an engine and has done a million kays and pretty much worn out. they are now using it as a parts truck.

post-2194-1227440031_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...
Howdy Grant,

Your not the fella messing with the R mack opposite the pool in champion drive Kelmscott are you ??

I was there the other day looking for the dude.

Barry

Hello, yes I am.

am in sydney at the moment in a B double, waiting for a load back.

what are you after? ph 0417200263

regards Grant

Hello, yes I am.

am in sydney at the moment in a B double, waiting for a load back.

what are you after? ph 0417200263

regards Grant

hey grant did you f-model have full power steering on it?i know you got the box off the valueliner didnt you?cheers adrian

hey grant did you f-model have full power steering on it?i know you got the box off the valueliner didnt you?cheers adrian

Hello, no it had the ram assisted steering, still have the ram etc, the full power steering is better tho, 6 turns lock to lock rather than a million! the 6 turns will be much better for chasing that second trailer to hook up the third!

regards Grant

Hello Grant,

Im after a few bits and pieces but more wanted to just catch up and say hello and see what you were up to with the Mack.

Took awhile to track you down then the day after I found out where you were in Kelmscott I found you here on the forum....small world.

I will give you a call shortly.

Barry

Hello Grant,

Im after a few bits and pieces but more wanted to just catch up and say hello and see what you were up to with the Mack.

Took awhile to track you down then the day after I found out where you were in Kelmscott I found you here on the forum....small world.

I will give you a call shortly.

Barry

Hello, no worrys, looking forward to the call. i am turning the flintstone R600 into a R700, using the diffs and motor and front axle out of the F model I had, I take it you saw the flinty tucked away around the side of the panel beaters?

the cab I have outside is now for parts as I bought a Valueliner cab for 3000 that had no rust in it, i couldnt repair that other one that cheap. i am building an Australian version of the Ducks truck from convoy with twin stacks and aircleaners.

regards Grant

Howdy Grant,

Didnt see the Flintstone. I talked to the big fella in the workshop and he said you were up Auski way I was there. He said you were doing a duck truck.

Have you had any luck getting disc wheel hubs for it ?. Im looking for hubs for my R700 to change over to Alcoa wheels from the spiders.

Are going with the duck noise and running an 8V-71 GM ?.

I will give you a ring in a couple of days when your back.

Regards,

Barry

Howdy Grant,

Didnt see the Flintstone. I talked to the big fella in the workshop and he said you were up Auski way I was there. He said you were doing a duck truck.

Have you had any luck getting disc wheel hubs for it ?. Im looking for hubs for my R700 to change over to Alcoa wheels from the spiders.

Are going with the duck noise and running an 8V-71 GM ?.

I will give you a ring in a couple of days when your back.

Regards,

Barry

Hello, am still in sydney, I went up to Auski, got back on the friday and left for sydney that nite, got here on monday the 26th and have been here waiting for a backload ever since.

go see Rod at Soltogio brothers, there just off Armadale road near freeway, he has a set of Bud Hubs there to convert, I bought a set off him last year, I know he has another set.

I am running a ENDT 866 with an 18spd double over road ranger

not many R700s over our way.

regards Grant

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