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After having a small short/fire in the harness on my f- model it got me thinking I should replace the harness just to be safe.

My question is has anyone ever used a Painless performance universal harness with say 20+ circuits on it and adapted it to a Mack?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-10104/overview/

This would net me two things not fearing leaving the batteries hooked up at night and all modern relays and fuses. I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work but maybe I am over looking something.

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I put a repro wiring harness in my B model which wasn't too bad just a little tedious. The repro's are a lot more expensive. I was lucky the harness I had came with the truck. The only difference I see in the Painless harness is it appears to use fuses as opposed to circuit breakers which I'm not sure of the advantages of one vs the other. The only other thing to check would be the gauge of the wires to handle additional lighting, etc.

I have a Painless switch panel in my race car. Nice piece, been there near 20 yrs.

I am in the process of putting an "EZ Wiring" kit in a 41 Willys. I think they are all pretty comparable overall.

http://ezwiring.com/

The one thing I did on the Willys, I put the headlights on relays. Takes all the load off the dash switch(generic GM switch). With the halogen bulbs today, these old headlights switches don't like the amp draw. The rest of it is pretty generic and can't see any kind of problem using it.

I put my B model headlights on relays a few years ago. I couldn't run my bright lights for more then a few minutes before it would start flashing on/off. Now they work great.

As for the Fuse/ Breaker comparison. Just keep some fuses in the glovebox. I'm sure they put breakers just to make them resettable and not have to worry about replacing fuses. If you do it right, I don't see a problem with fuses.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

Go to Summit Racing for Remote Battery Disconnect Switches. Required by NHRA and AHRA on my race car, but I've added one on all my trucks for peace of mind. 300 amp rating.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/battery-disconnect-switches

  • Like 2

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

I have a Painless switch panel in my race car. Nice piece, been there near 20 yrs.

I am in the process of putting an "EZ Wiring" kit in a 41 Willys. I think they are all pretty comparable overall.

http://ezwiring.com/

The one thing I did on the Willys, I put the headlights on relays. Takes all the load off the dash switch(generic GM switch). With the halogen bulbs today, these old headlights switches don't like the amp draw. The rest of it is pretty generic and can't see any kind of problem using it.

I put my B model headlights on relays a few years ago. I couldn't run my bright lights for more then a few minutes before it would start flashing on/off. Now they work great.

As for the Fuse/ Breaker comparison. Just keep some fuses in the glovebox. I'm sure they put breakers just to make them resettable and not have to worry about replacing fuses. If you do it right, I don't see a problem with fuses.

I have purchased the Painless Performance headlamp relay kits over the years from JEGS for exactly the reason you mention. I wish more people were aware.

I have purchased the Painless Performance headlamp relay kits over the years from JEGS for exactly the reason you mention. I wish more people were aware.

I put relays in my B for headlamps, Perlux driving lamps, the spotlamp on mixer controls/ chute and the heater blower motor. Anything with a high current draw should ideally have a relay. The battery disconnects are in the cab on the floor by the door. I like the fact that A) it totally isolated the system from the batteries and B) it's a poor mans anti theft device.

  • Like 1

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

  • 4 weeks later...

Agreed on the high amp draw of halogen head lights being an issue. The solution as some have said is a relay harness, but what about LED headlights? I am sure they are available either as a upgrade kit or a stand alone sealed bulb. Then you would have tons of light and minimal amp draw.

  • 1 month later...

One reason I like old trucks vs new.

Mercedes semi truck fuse box on the left (one of many in the truck)...... my new harness and fuse box for my Mack on the right.

Yes I ordered the all black harness from E-Z Wiring as I think it will look cleaner installed. It is screen print labeled every 6 inches so identifying wires is simple. I said to myself for under $200 why mess with old questionable wiring.

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  • Like 1

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