B-73 Restoration

[Freightrain]

NIce.

[mattb73lt]

Matt Pfahl was kind enough to bring my frame to my house when he was in the area making another delivery Sunday morning. With the stretch it won't fit on my truck any more and I don't have good enough tires to tow it home. Progress should pick back up now that it's back.

[j hancock]

Nice to see that he stretched the legs on Ken's old truck.

[hurstscrambler]

Excellent news, We are anxiously awaiting updates!  Andy

[mowerman]

ya me too.....bob

[Vladislav]

21 hours ago, hurstscrambler said:

Excellent news, We are anxiously awaiting updates!  Andy

I double that!

Good luck on the progress.

[mattb73lt]

Tracked down a really nice backdrop manifold last year, after putting out some feelers for one. Scored one that didn't break the bank and was in excellent condition. Now to get it in and hear it run!'

[h67st]

Nice looking motor! With that block heater, looks like you're planning to run this truck in the winter. Will that paint on the manifold hold up to exhaust heat? Is it just hi-temp paint?

[mattb73lt]

13 hours ago, h67st said:

Nice looking motor! With that block heater, looks like you're planning to run this truck in the winter. Will that paint on the manifold hold up to exhaust heat? Is it just hi-temp paint?

It should, ive had very good luck with it on other engines. Pretty durable

[mattb73lt]

Steam cleaned the crap out of the cab today. Amazing the amount of dirt and grease that came out of it!! Spent three hours on it once it got set up this morning. It's squeaky clean now and ready for more work

[Hobert62]

I wish I had the skill and nerve to cut into something that far.  Looking good. 

[mattb73lt]

12 hours ago, Hobert62 said:

I wish I had the skill and nerve to cut into something that far.  Looking good. 

It’s going to get a lot worse, soon. I need to cross brace everything first before going further. The roof is coming off and the lower cab sills will get replaced. I don’t think the L cab is as sturdy as the standard B cab and more prone to rust. The back panels on this one were replaced early in its life and weren’t done well so they came off easily. This is certainly the worst part of this project and it’ll take a bunch of time to fix.

[Red Horse]

3 hours ago, mattb73lt said:

It’s going to get a lot worse, soon. I need to cross brace everything first before going further. The roof is coming off and the lower cab sills will get replaced. I don’t think the L cab is as sturdy as the standard B cab and more prone to rust. The back panels on this one were replaced early in its life and weren’t done well so they came off easily. This is certainly the worst bart of this project and it’ll take a bunch of time to fix.

Nice Matt-but I assume when you talk about "replacing" sections this means you are fabricating all these pieces-no donor involved?

[harrybarbon]

Great effort Matt, congratulations for your determination. Considering the near complete refabrication of the cab frame and panels work you are doing, for long term rust and sound and thermal protection/benefits, you may like to have a look at Lizard skin. We used it throughout our B model rebuild as have others restoring / rebuilding their Macks. It is easy to apply and being a water based non toxic liquid paste it will flow into all joints, cracks, corners and pockets of the cab and frame, resulting in 100% seal/protection. It dries quick in warm weather, and you apply no more than thickness of a credit card. If you apply the 2 lizard products, first sound protection and then the original lizard skin you will achieve the best result. And you also should apply inside the door cavities and walls, especially at bottom inside of the doors where water dust and moisture combines. Pictures of our cab and door with the 2 products applied, sound control first and lizard skin on top - must be in this order. We also did underside of the cab, engine side of firewall, underside of fenders and hood. No need to put any other stick on products. There are some good videos on you tube and the lizard skin web site to watch. We found the product around 2003 from a hot rod restoration magazine, it has been available at least 16 years. 

[mattb73lt]

2 hours ago, harrybarbon said:

Great effort Matt, congratulations for your determination. Considering the near complete refabrication of the cab frame and panels work you are doing, for long term rust and sound and thermal protection/benefits, you may like to have a look at Lizard skin. We used it throughout our B model rebuild as have others restoring / rebuilding their Macks. It is easy to apply and being a water based non toxic liquid paste it will flow into all joints, cracks, corners and pockets of the cab and frame, resulting in 100% seal/protection. It dries quick in warm weather, and you apply no more than thickness of a credit card. If you apply the 2 lizard products, first sound protection and then the original lizard skin you will achieve the best result. And you also should apply inside the door cavities and walls, especially at bottom inside of the doors where water dust and moisture combines. Pictures of our cab and door with the 2 products applied, sound control first and lizard skin on top - must be in this order. We also did underside of the cab, engine side of firewall, underside of fenders and hood. No need to put any other stick on products. There are some good videos on you tube and the lizard skin web site to watch. We found the product around 2003 from a hot rod restoration magazine, it has been available at least 16 years. 

I was going to use Lizard skin on the entire bottom, then Dynamat over the entire interior. Probably go double thick under the mat for the firewall.

[mattb73lt]

4 hours ago, Red Horse said:

Nice Matt-but I assume when you talk about "replacing" sections this means you are fabricating all these pieces-no donor involved?

I've collected up numerous pieces that are re-production (sills, cab back) and a lot of donor pieces. I was lucky enough to have a friend give me a Bridgeport, Ct fire truck cab. It was really gone on the bottom end but all the upper metal was good. I carefully cut it apart and was able to get the cab top, under structure for it, cowl and windshield area.

[Red Horse]

14 minutes ago, mattb73lt said:

I've collected up numerous pieces that are re-production (sills, cab back) and a lot of donor pieces. I was lucky enough to have a friend give me a Bridgeport, Ct fire truck cab. It was really gone on the bottom end but all the upper metal was good. I carefully cut it apart and was able to get the cab top, under structure for it, cowl and windshield area.

Nice- I won't look for it at Brooklyn this year-maybe next for sure😎

[mattb73lt]

38 minutes ago, Red Horse said:

Nice- I won't look for it at Brooklyn this year-maybe next for sure😎

Hopefully! I will have to have some small parts fabricated locally, but I have all the major pieces.

[mrsmackpaul]

I have been very busy of late or as we say out here "flat out like a lizard drinking" and have hardly had time to check in let alone post

This truck is coming along really nice 

I never new those back drop Cummins manifolds were a sort after item, I have had one kicking about for many years and was looking at it only a few months ago and ummed and ared as to keep it or bin it 
I dont think they are in much demand out here as been RHD they are exiting in the wrong spot for steering gear and brakes and clutch etc

Most large trucks sold in Australia are double rail chassis and on cattle trucks they often fit grease nipples to force grease in between the rails to stop them splitting apart 
I wonder with all the salt and the like used on the roads in the US might this be a good idea when you slip the rails over each other like you have ?????

By the way a grease nipple is what you blokes I think call a "ZERK" 

Anyway great stuff just the same 

Paul  
 

 

Oh yeah a bit more, my Cummins manifold is in three pieces and Im pretty sure Cummins and then Diesel are cast into the rear two pieces

 

Edited May 22, 2018 by mrsmackpaul

[harrybarbon]

Matt,  no need for the dynamat, apply the 2 lizard skin products all non painted areas both inside and out, including both sides of the firewall. On the engine side of firewall, we applied 1 coat of the 2 products then light sand to smooth it out  (lizard skin when dry is like a golf ball finish) then a second application to fill the golf ball type holes, then light rub back then we applied hyfill which we added about 35% flex additive to allow the hyfill to be compatible with the lizard skin (it is flexible - hence it's sealing quality and wont crack when dry) and did same with the hyfill a rub back and then another coat then paint undercoat with the 30-35% flex additive and same again with the top / final paint finish - we achieved result on the engine firewall side as the finished external paint and now 3 years since painted no cracking of any kind on the fire wall and withstands the heat from the engine, the sound control is good check out the lizard skin video the guy does a sound decible rating 

[j hancock]

Digging right into the cab Matt!  The L cab is indeed not as rigid as the B cab. Having the L cowl bolt to the door pillar post is just not as strong.

Did the same deal with a new floor, sills, back panel, remove and blast the cowl so all metal gets paint, etc.  Had an auto body shop claim that they knew what they were doing.  Blah, blah ,blah....  Now I have some cracks and bubbling that make me unhappy.  The door fit could be also better.  Should have done it myself.  Body shop hell is what I call it now.

My number one advice is to do as much welding and repair work with the cab firmly bolted down to the frame rails with all rubber mounts in place and with the doors hung.  There was a huge amount of cross bracing installed in my cab for the repair work and even still there was some movement from welding.  When it was time to install the cab, there were some alignment issues with the mounts.  Also, the L doors weigh so much when fully dressed that it is my contention that they should be in place and checked for proper closing as the rebuild process moves forward.  Have the four door alignment wedges in place also.

[mattb73lt]

3 hours ago, harrybarbon said:

Matt,  no need for the dynamat, apply the 2 lizard skin products all non painted areas both inside and out, including both sides of the firewall. On the engine side of firewall, we applied 1 coat of the 2 products then light sand to smooth it out  (lizard skin when dry is like a golf ball finish) then a second application to fill the golf ball type holes, then light rub back then we applied hyfill which we added about 35% flex additive to allow the hyfill to be compatible with the lizard skin (it is flexible - hence it's sealing quality and wont crack when dry) and did same with the hyfill a rub back and then another coat then paint undercoat with the 30-35% flex additive and same again with the top / final paint finish - we achieved result on the engine firewall side as the finished external paint and now 3 years since painted no cracking of any kind on the fire wall and withstands the heat from the engine, the sound control is good check out the lizard skin video the guy does a sound decible rating 

I think I might go that route, I like that you can paint overt it.

[harrybarbon]

I know I am repeating what I have written but hard experience lesson - make sure you put the flex additive into the paint and hyfill etc, otherwise in all the hidden areas no need to paint over, but if say you want to get some colour into the lizard skin I think the current product is a lighter grey, you could put a little colour into the lizard skin, my guys put a little green paint into the lizard skin before they applied it under the engine hood for sound and heat control - picture attached, now the alloy hood sounds like it is fiberglass

[mattb73lt]

Back at it again. I've had some consistent time to devote and have gotten a lot accomplished. I had all the aluminum frame castings repaired where needed. Then I machined all the repairs and replaced all the holes on the Bridgeport. While I was doing that work, I made up a polished stainless bumper to replace the mangled aluminum one. Finally, welded in about 60' of 1" square tubing to brace it as a removed the final panels for repair.

[terry]

That is a bare bones cab!! Should look real good when you are done, like a new truck!!     terry👍👍👍