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So I was changing my steer axle over to 10 stud today. To cut a long story short, I couldn't get a seal to fit the hub and stub axle. I can get one to fit the hub, and another to fit the stub axle but not one for both.

So I'm looking at getting the hub machined to fit the supposed "proper" seal.

In the pic below, if I get the hub machined to accept an off the shelf seal, I will be left with a thickness of 1/4inch or 6mm where the seal will sit. Can anyone see a problem with that?

post-14557-0-89430800-1441963832_thumb.j

post-14557-0-09937600-1441963127_thumb.j

Green seal fits, but inner diameter is too small. Blue one is correct inner diameter but too big outer.

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could you just get a sleeve machined to make the hub a bit smaller and press it in ?????

or you could just machine it 1/4 inch would be fine I think but Im just a farmer so dont call me on the dog and bone if she lets go on the side of the road

Paul

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I think you would be okay with that. The material you would remove is hanging out the back of the hub. The load is outboard of the bearing which is in the other direction of where the seal sits. I'm sure it must add something to the equation but if it were mine and I had no other viable options I'd do it...I would review all other options first for good measure.

I would get some brass shim stock that will add up to 1.6 or 1.7 mm and fit it between the seal and hub as you install the seal. With a good interference fit it should be equal to the proper seals fit.

Machining a 1.5 mm shim is a easy job for a good machinist. I've had .060 " shims made to fit between the inner race and a shaft with no problems. Both made from brass and aluminum. Paul

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

I'm for a sleeve.

Keeping 6 mm in the hub over the seal area seems quite enough to me.

It's just not nice to disturb any original part having no really hard need.

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

Timm , check the seal depth also. as I see the blue seal has a lot more shoulder on it than the other, also is the blue one a stemco? as most of them are to be used with a wear ring. did you make sure that the stub shaft does not still have a wear ring stuck to the seal surface? as for the machine work on the hub you could always cut the bore a little bigger then press a steel insert into the bore and then have it turned to the needed dia. that way you wouldn't have such a thin insert. just a thought ...good luck

Gearhead, your spot on. I was looking in my mack book and noticed the wear ring. No dimensions were given so I'll check my stub axle tomorrow. Yes blue one is stemco, green one is skf. Also, the green seal is a newer type which spins on its self so it wouldn't need a wear ring.

As for the machining, labour costs in Aus might put a stop to that. So I'll see what their quote comes too! I remember building a 302 Windsor years ago and was cheaper to buy new heads from US then port mine.

Try Stemco.com (or something like that) and Timken.com.

There's a great stock of seals of incredable different sizes.

Having parts# from there you might find exact seals in many places. Just google the #.

They seals aren't heavy so mail box cost wouldn't bite you hard even from the States.

I did that when was looking for the seals for my Mack MH.

They were of some strange size either and I ended up with Stemco from my local dealer.

All that is good if you have time enough to wait though.

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

  • 4 weeks later...

I can confirm the axle in the morning, but I'm pretty sure it's a mack 12,000lb axle. Hubs are genuine mack hf 725.

I wonder if a spacer plate would work?

Or a better alternative would be to use a straight cross steering lever. As mine is bend down, and that's why it's hitting the rim.

post-14557-0-79507600-1444130549_thumb.j

A lot of the Macks in the USA have 10 stud rims so would love to know how they do it?

How much room for clearance is needed? Paul

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

L/h side is only just touching. I can spin the tyre by hand. R/h side is a bit tighter. Can't spin the tyre. I reckon a 5/16 spacer would work.

My mate reckons if I drive it long enough there will eventually become a clearance.

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