300 in a B model

[terry]

no intercooler or air to air is a 237.... I think a new waterpump is around 50 bucks larry. I know you need your 673 crank hub as its shorter. the 237 one is for a 3 groove pulley and theres not enough room between the dampner and the radiator crossmember. that water rail and oil cooler and filter setup is pretty commom also, but like we all know, non exhistent when your lookin for it. my cousin is runnin the smaller B61 radiator(the one that doesn't go all the way to the bottom of the horsecollar) with a 237 and it doesn't run hot. if your rad is in good condition you shouldn't have a problem.

Doesn't it need the short waterpump too. terry

[Maddog13407]

yup, shorter water pump. he said this one was missin all together. hard to say what it had. most 237's I have came across already had the shorter water pump and only two groove pulleys tho. some had 3 grooves depending on if it had ac . I think either way 2 or 3 groove both had the fatter crank hub.

[leversole]

Thanks Leslie. That helps a ton. Now I know what is missing.

Is yours a drivers side starter? This one came with passenger side bell housing.

I didn't know yours was a 300 or is it a 237? How's it drive with your transmission? Quad or triplex?

Starter is on the drivers side...I run a triplex...never pulled anything with it but it is fun...It came out of a 1970 U model...I have factory paper work on the engine...didnt know really the difference between a 237, 673, 675, etc...with that big V-8 radiator I have, never even gets warm bob-tailing

[Lmackattack]

Larry you have a 237...

Glen will the water pump ,pullys etc...off his 673 swap over to the maxidyne ?

[Superdog]

Larry did you see that 300 powered B61 for sale on facebook ?

[Freightrain]

Mike. Ya saw it.

Trent. Working on getting oil cooler and water manifold.

I will post pics tomorrow.

[Freightrain]

Unloading in the pouring rain Saturday morning:

[theakerstwo]

I am sure I used the old 673 water pump on the 237 engine or in my case it was a 320.

[b61mack]

Looks like it already has the bellhousing you need.

[terry]

Looks like it already has the bellhousing you need.

Didn't the old bell housing have a big guide studs where them ears are on the top of the bellhousing? terry

[Maddog13407]

only the really early 50's to about 1957 bell's had the big 5/8 bolts/guide studs. I never saw them on anything newer.

[Freightrain]

Well, got both heads lifted off yesterday. Had a mud dobbers nest in two cylinders. I suppose the starter woulda just mashed them up and blew them out the exhaust, but a breaker bar would not get past them with armstrong power. Motor spins freely now.

Going to dress up a couple cylinders at the top where there is a touch of rust from sitting. Don't think it warrants new liners. You can still read the Mack part numbers on the top of the pistons clearly...hardly any carbon build up.

I want to put a new set of fuel lines on it. Is that something available, reasonable? Mine are just rusty looking and figure I might as well replace them now since they are off. Going to check on getting pump redone also. I know there are local places.

Any chance of finding a flywheel?(cheap? local?) Like to have one on it to start it before putting in truck. I know Adelmans will not sell motor parts.

[68-f-model]

I just dropped off all the old rusty fuel lines and had the new ones made to match. I had a local industrial hose supplier make them from top of the line materials, way over kill but I would rather not worry about a hose failure.

I couldn't find any type of kit for them.

[farmer52]

Larry,

Check with your "fuel pump shop". They should have tubing and ability to bend to match.

[Freightrain]

Well I called R&R machine. They basically do "stock" rebuilds and can not alter a pump to other settings(I would have to supply the pump number for them to set it-they don't have any listing to just go by). They scared the bajeebers out of me with a "rough" estimate! $2000!!!! Say what? Perry Diesel closed(number no good) so that is out. Going to see if I can find someone else somewhat local. If not, I guess it will stay a Maxidyne for now.

[j hancock]

Pricing at pump shops has seemed out of wack for years. I guess they feel it is "black magic" that mere mortals can't comprehend.

I realize that there are special tools and equipment to do pump and injector work but it still.

[68-f-model]

All new fuel and oil lines only set me back about $280. Worth it for the piece of mind I think.

[farmer52]

Perry Diesel closed(number no good) so that is out. Going to see if I can find someone else somewhat local. If not, I guess it will stay a Maxidyne for now.

Larry,

I was thinking of Perry Diesel. Contact Barry @ Watt. He might have a suggestion. I don't think Cross Truck does pumps but might be worth a call. There is a shop in Akron (on Arlington south of 224) that does pumps. I will try to find their contact information.

UPDATE: Yes R&R Engine & Machine on Swartz. Surprised they are not able to reset. Perhaps someone can supply a part number.

[Freightrain]

My injector lines are all steel and would like to keep them steel(not braided). Mine are useable, but would like to have new.

I googled and found a few places in Ohio that does pump work. Not sure I want to just ship it off somewhere for someone to do whatever to it?

I race with a fellow that does big truck work. Going to see if he has someone up around his place(north royalton).

While talking to R/R, they said the last Mack pump they did it was cheaper to get a reman from Bosch. Then he told me about $2000 and I about fell out of my chair.

I'd like to learn a bit about these pumps. Still is black magic to me.

[41chevy]

My injector lines are all steel and would like to keep them steel(not braided). Mine are useable, but would like to have new.

I googled and found a few places in Ohio that does pump work. Not sure I want to just ship it off somewhere for someone to do whatever to it?

I race with a fellow that does big truck work. Going to see if he has someone up around his place(north royalton).

While talking to R/R, they said the last Mack pump they did it was cheaper to get a reman from Bosch. Then he told me about $2000 and I about fell out of my chair.

I'd like to learn a bit about these pumps. Still is black magic to me.

I used to use a place here on the island called Dutchman Diesel. He took all the black magic out of the pumps for me. Said it's basically a cam and lifter design. The cams lift and duration determine fuel amount and length of "squirt". Timing sets when the injector pulses in relation to piston position. That's the 2 minute education he gave me. Never explained the magic governor or throttle relation though. Made sense to me than . .

[68-f-model]

I miss understood which lines you were referring to. My injector lines are hat plumbed with steel I just replaced the old rotted braided supply lines.

[Freightrain]

Ya, I'm going to replace my supply line, as it too is rotten braided lines.

Paul, ya I know it isn't too much to really understand. It tells when to shoot the fuel. Lift and duration. But sure is a bunch of BS to control that.

[41chevy]

Ya, I'm going to replace my supply line, as it too is rotten braided lines.

Paul, ya I know it isn't too much to really understand. It tells when to shoot the fuel. Lift and duration. But sure is a bunch of BS to control that.

Amen to that!

I learned enough from Dutchman Diesel to sent them out.

[farmer52]

I used to use a place here on the island called Dutchman Diesel. He took all the black magic out of the pumps for me. Said it's basically a cam and lifter design. The cams lift and duration determine fuel amount and length of "squirt". Timing sets when the injector pulses in relation to piston position. That's the 2 minute education he gave me. Never explained the magic governor or throttle relation though. Made sense to me than . .

The cam lift and duration controls the pressure and length of "squirt". The amount of fuel is metered by the scroll on the individual injection pumps which is controlled by the governor. The pump is timed for the start of injection so the fuel combusts at the correct interval.