Cracked Steering Wheels

[GGB3_MS]

Hey Y'all:

Hope everyone is doing well and feelin good. What do you do for a steering wheel that is cracked and peeling? (without spending $800.00 for a reconditioned one). I do not want to wrap it in tape to have sticky $hit all over it later. But, I want to put something over it. When the wheel spins to straight, it will give ya little razor or paper cuts and what not. I hate to do any of the rigged stuff, I just can't make a move to spend that kind of money on a recon wheel. Any info appreciated.

Thanks,

George

[Mike]

Hi George,

I recently purchased a B61T that is in need of a remanufactured steering wheel. So I talked to Terry at Watts Mack 1-888-304-6225 he said the program was on hold at this time because of the cost was so high. Give them a call they are a GREAT! group of guys ready to be of help. He may suggest another avenue for you. I have been thinking about putting a steering cover over the wheel for temporary usage. Since my cab needs painting this is ok for me at this time.

mike

[Rob]

Hey Y'all:

Hope everyone is doing well and feelin good. What do you do for a steering wheel that is cracked and peeling? (without spending $800.00 for a reconditioned one). I do not want to wrap it in tape to have sticky $hit all over it later. But, I want to put something over it. When the wheel spins to straight, it will give ya little razor or paper cuts and what not. I hate to do any of the rigged stuff, I just can't make a move to spend that kind of money on a recon wheel. Any info appreciated.

Thanks,

George

Hi George; I know exactly what you mean with the peeling and flaking of your wheel. Cracks in the Acetyl plastic these wheels are made from are not stable through the years hence the cracking at the rim, spokes, and center area(s). I've seen wheel cracks grow, (shrink) by .015 when cold, as opposed to hot.

A method I have come up with to repair this damage is to use a ball type rotary cutter on a die grinder or Dremmel tool to open the bottom of the cracks up and leave a "trough" at the bottom near the steel core. This will allow your filler/repair material to have something to pull against and not simply fall out. After forming this "trough" in the plastic I then open the crack up on the sides with either 80 grit sandpaper, or a course file to reveal unexposed plastic and leave a rough edge for the repair material to adhere to. Clean everything up well using isopropyl alchohol and let dry. Denatured alchohol will work also but you have to wear gloves, and don't let it set on the plastic as it will desolve and melt. Use aluminum "duct tape" to form a "dam" around the crack(s), and place steering wheel with backside up onto a plastic covered bench. Press down on the tape to ensure a really tight seal to the edges of the crack. Punch a small hole into the tape on the backside of the wheel for your repair material to be injected/poured into. I use automotive plastic structual adhesive for the filler material as it really sets up strong and will bond to plastic well. It is a thick liquid that is injected with an applicator gun. Let the material set up for about 1/2 the time on the directions, and remove the tape. The repair material should be solid, (but soft) at this point as it is not fully cured. Remove your duct tape, and apply, (by hand) more filler material needed for minor imperfections remaining, and to bring the material higher than the surrounding damage.

After curing overnight I then glass bead or sand mechanically the old flaking material from the wheel. From this point it is much the same a repairing and painting any plastic part. Use a plastic primer for this purpose followed by an epoxy primer, followed by topcoat. I've had good luck in the past and plan to do a couple more wheels I have this same way.

Automotive structural adhesives are made to soften, or melt into the surrounding plastic to ensure good bond. They do work well when used correctly but takes some time to cure, and not warp the part. Use automotive paint for the finish and it will wear well.

The wheel will still be old and subject to cracking at the same, and other places on it. It the truck is going to be outside, I would have a steering wheel cover sewed up by an upholstry shop to block solar radiation from the sun when the truck is not being driven. This will prolong the life substantially.

This repair will take some time so don't cut corners or you will not be happy. I use both 3M, and SEM adhesives, and work one in the same. Most autopaint suppliers/vendors will loan you a gun if you purchase from them. The application guns and nozzels add up quick so a "one off" project would not be cost effective to purchase them for.

Good luck!

Rob

[GGB3_MS]

Hi George,

I recently purchased a B61T that is in need of a remanufactured steering wheel. So I talked to Terry at Watts Mack 1-888-304-6225 he said the program was on hold at this time because of the cost was so high. Give them a call they are a GREAT! group of guys ready to be of help. He may suggest another avenue for you. I have been thinking about putting a steering cover over the wheel for temporary usage. Since my cab needs painting this is ok for me at this time.

mike

Thanks to you both for your thoughts. Sounds like a good plan that will at least last for a good while. Thanks, again. I will also call the number above and see what they say.

George

[Mike]

George,

I should have said Tracey, to call not terry. Sorry bout that. Go with Rob on the subject and you want be dipleased.

mike

[rw613]

George,

I should have said Tracey, to call not terry. Sorry bout that. Go with Rob on the subject and you want be dipleased.

mike

good body shop can fix them and paint any color you want

[Packer]

Something I have tried with good luck is to go to the paint store and get paint "Pigment", not paint and add it to epoxy.

A little dab will do ya!!

I use a tooth pick to add the color.

Mix well and follow Rob's clean and sand directions for preping the wheel.

I picked up some small tubes with plungers and a tapered point to squeez in the epoxy, with a pin hole on the back side to let the air out and make sure the epoxy has filled the hole.

I used gun action bedding "GEL" from Brownells (Iowa?) in the East part of the world.

It does not get brittle, but takes 24 hours to set, but still soft enough to work.

The instruction say 7 days to fully set up.

When I'm through, the color was close, and no painting.

It worked for me and this was my first Rodeo!!

(Rob, Where were you when I needed you?????????)

I'll try the other stuff on the next one.

It will be black and I do have some black epoxy die.

If it fails, - - - I might keep my mouth shut!!

As I remember, the whole job was less than $15.00.

Packer

[Rob]

Something I have tried with good luck is to go to the paint store and get paint "Pigment", not paint and add it to epoxy.

A little dab will do ya!!

I use a tooth pick to add the color.

Mix well and follow Rob's clean and sand directions for preping the wheel.

I picked up some small tubes with plungers and a tapered point to squeez in the epoxy, with a pin hole on the back side to let the air out and make sure the epoxy has filled the hole.

I used gun action bedding "GEL" from Brownells (Iowa?) in the East part of the world.

It does not get brittle, but takes 24 hours to set, but still soft enough to work.

The instruction say 7 days to fully set up.

When I'm through, the color was close, and no painting.

It worked for me and this was my first Rodeo!!

(Rob, Where were you when I needed you?????????)

I'll try the other stuff on the next one.

It will be black and I do have some black epoxy die.

If it fails, - - - I might keep my mouth shut!!

As I remember, the whole job was less than $15.00.

Packer

Hi Garth, I've tried the epoxy in the early days myself. The epoxy based material does not "melt in, or knit" to the parent material like structural adhesive does. Eventually the failure is that the parent material again shrinks, and breaks the bond between it, and the epoxy material. Structual adhesive does form a much tighter, (cohesive) bond to the parent material. It can still break free but when it does, it takes a chunk from the parent material with it!! Then you get to do it all over again!

Rob

[peterj]

if yor not worried about orrignal....i just bought a custom wheel for my H67...22in ,3 chrome spokes and center..black wheel ..$200...

look on the web..VIP steering wheels..they have 18, 20, 22in..differnt rims, and spoke styles...all for the mack spline..even wood..

i got mine through berbe's, bow, nh

peterj

[Packer]

You're killing me, Rob!!!

Thought I had the fix to end all fixes!

Might have to re-think this whole thing!

Don't want to RE- do that job.

I spent some serious time getting it "just right".

Packer

[Rob]

You're killing me, Rob!!!

Naw, just don't want someone to be unsatisfied in the future.

Rob

[Packer]

I'm the one that may be unsatisfied!!

That "fix" maybe should go in the "Tech" section as the way to fix a steering wheel.

That way the next generation will have access to iy forever.

Good stuff Rob!!!!!!!

Hang in there!

Packer

[HeyCharger]

Just found this. It may be of some help;

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=SWRK&dept=11

Regards, Rod.

[monty]

This is for all skippys on this site.

http://www.pearlcraft.com.au/trucks.htm

-Monty

[vanscottbuilders]

Thanks Rob,

Like Garth, I too have been thinking that epoxy was the way to go.

I wonder - can you add a colorant to the structural adhesive?

I've had great luck adding food coloring to tint epoxy for a

variety of uses. Paint pigment would be real good also.

Good forum!

Paul Van Scott

[mackmixer]

Great explanation from Rob and Packer. I could even use this on my Studebaker.

[Rob]

Thanks Rob,

Like Garth, I too have been thinking that epoxy was the way to go.

I wonder - can you add a colorant to the structural adhesive?

I've had great luck adding food coloring to tint epoxy for a

variety of uses. Paint pigment would be real good also.

Good forum!

Paul Van Scott

I cannot give an honest answer as to tinting strutural adhesive. Most vendors have their own color scheme for a certain purpose to perform. Most of the stuff I use is either black, green, or golden color. Most of it stinks to "high heaven" also. Again, it depends on what you are wanting to glue together. I have found the gold color from SEM tends to shrink a bit and one can see the glue lines beneath paint. This comes and goes and I've yet to see the topcoat fail due to this shrinkage.

As far as tinting epoxy: Do not try to use a urethane toner or tint as they are not compatible chemically. While both are chemically cured by the addition of a catalyst, (hardner) the chemical composition of both are different. Adding a urethane product to an epoxy will cause it to congeal, or jelly, then not cure correctly. Urethane undercoats that serve as a replacement for epoxy can safely be tinted with toners as the chemical composition of the two products are similar. Urethanes have surpassed the epoxies in the production body shops due to the speed of production. A urethane product can be topcoated in as little a 10 minutes, where most epoxies take upwards of an hour, (or longer) to purge entrained solvents. This speed comes at a significant increase in cost. My preference is epoxy as I'm no longer in a production atmosphere and I think it is a better product for the end user that is much more versatile, and applicator friendly.

After your wheel is repaired to your satisfaction, sand smooth with 220 grit silicone carbide paper, (wet) and spray a single moderately wet coat of plastic adhesion promoter primer onto your repaired area(s). Let flash for about 10 minutes, then a single wet coat of primer/surfacer over any sanded areas. I prefer to use a urethane based, or polyester primer because it stays put when dry. Other primers such as lacquer based tend to shrink as they age. Finish sand after reaching correct contour with 600-800, (wet) and apply topcoat of choice. Most any topcoat, (except lacquer) will go over either mentioned primer. One thing I should mention is that if the complete wheel is primed, it is the applicators decision to use a finish coat of epoxy just before final topcoat, or not. If the complete wheel is not primed, epoxy must be used as a barrier to the plastic or the solvents in the topcoat will attack, and leach into the plastic. (This is not very favorable down the road) Be sure to use a plastic adhesion promoter. Do not skip this step!! Epoxy is a great barrier coat, and adhesion promoter for the topcoat. Be sure to apply the initial coat of epoxy very lightly, (you should be able to see through it's translucence to the bare substrate) to curtail solvent penetration to the substrate. After this intitial "tack coat" dries 10 minutes, apply a medium coat and let dry according to directions.

A final note: Plastic adhesion promoter is only "open" for about 20 minutes. After this time, it must be reapplied. I spray the complete wheel as to ensure all epoxy is undercoated.

Hope this helps. I've done several and don't really think about the steps much. It's just like fixxing a wrecked car; I just "get it done".

Rob

[other dog]

George,

I should have said Tracey, to call not terry. Sorry bout that. Go with Rob on the subject and you want be dipleased.

mike

yes...Rob has never been known to be wrong about anything-yet

[other dog]

. It the truck is going to be outside, I would have a steering wheel cover sewed up by an upholstry shop to block solar radiation from the sun when the truck is not being driven. This will prolong the life substantially.

Good luck!

Rob

man, I never thought of that-that's really good advice. My poor old mixer sits out in the sun 24 hours a day

[Rob]

man, I never thought of that-that's really good advice. My poor old mixer sits out in the sun 24 hours a day

I would have a cover sewed for the cab of the truck, (form fitted) with strip magnets, and rope grommets along the lower edges. The sun is hard on everything. Items covered from direct exposure keeps things nice longer.

Rob

[Mike]

Hey Rob,

I really need your help!!!!!!!......... I've been trying to follow the subject carefully, but I can't yet, for the life of me figure out what a SKIPPY is. Will you shed some light on this subject. I seem to have trouble with some MACK terminology.

mike

[Speed]

Check this out;

Speed

[Speed]

OOOPS!

Item number: 4653979486

[other dog]

this is a skippy-aisle 3, at your local Food Lion store

[Rob]

this is a skippy-aisle 3, at your local Food Lion store

But "Choosey Mothers, Choose JIF".

Rob