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From my experience once you start to sand (dry sand!) clear coat you should keep thin skin of it.

Otherwise sanding wood it became its original light color. Like common plywood.

You have two options - keep some clear coat and when you re-coat it you still have some cracks and damages seen.

Or you "grind" off the surface completely and than tone the wood with some paint or acid trying to get the correct look.

Than overcoat it. By the word a two-component clear coat for body repair works perfect.

Seeing you glove box door I think you can only cut off the sliced clear coat only, maybe sand the edges a bit and than overspray it as is.

Or restore completely with total sand/tone and making new dog.

Better to bring it to a resto shop and it will be costy.

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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Looks awful thick for clear coat almost looks like plastic. If it's plastic you could carefully remove all or as much of it as possible it has cracked de-laminated leaving the dog area intact and use the 2 part clear self leveling Clear Cast pour-able clear acrylic resin. That's the stuff you see in bars and restaurants that have coins and things embedded it them.

Michaels and most hobby and craft stores sell it, about 10 or 12 a quart kit with hardener

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"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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I didn't think of the epoxy but that could also work I was thinking get the old flaky stuff off and fine sand it down the edges than re-clear coat building up in the area that de-laminated but that epoxy probably would work also, not sure how you could control the thickness and running off the edge.

Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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I didn't think of the epoxy but that could also work I was thinking get the old flaky stuff off and fine sand it down the edges than re-clear coat building up in the area that de-laminated but that epoxy probably would work also, not sure how you could control the thickness and running off the edge.

You run a few wraps of Frog tape around the edges to make a "dam". As for the thickness, you mix about a coffee mug full and pour a bit on it at a time and tilt back af forth to flow it out. You can always add more to it if needed. I used it on the wood inserts on the console in my'64 Riviera and got it to a thickness to between 1/16 / 3/32. Probably used about 1/2 of a pint or less.

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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I don't think I have ever seen a deluxe dash like that.What years were they offered? Obviously,during the steel dash years. Good luck on saving it,Mike. Al

IF YOU BOUGHT IT, A TRUCK BROUGHT IT..AND WHEN YOU'RE DONE WITH IT, A TRUCK WILL HAUL IT AWAY!!! Big John Trimble,WRVA

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Could that be the same woodgrain stick on panels that Brockway used on their dashboards? You could match the sheet and reskin, cut around the dog, it seems pretty intact there, and splice the new in around the dog. Use the casting resin to build up depending how the splice came out.

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If you go with any new wood sheet the dog might be cut out of self adgesive film in a shop wich makes advertizements or other vinil work.

Then put it on and cover with clear coat.

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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Could that be the same woodgrain stick on panels that Brockway used on their dashboards? You could match the sheet and reskin, cut around the dog, it seems pretty intact there, and splice the new in around the dog. Use the casting resin to build up depending how the splice came out.

According to Tom (Oldspwr) in his Brockway build thread, there is a company in Maryland called Interior Design Solutions, they sell a 3M product called Di-Noc which is a architectural grade vinyl, a dead ringer for the Brockway dash. Mack could have used the same product, different shade. Tom sent for several samples, which seemed like the size you may need. They have a website according to the post where you can view the product.
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Feather edge the clear as best as you can and apply very thin coats of whatever you choose. When you have a hard line and put a thick coat of something over top of it it tends to lift and crinkle. The solvents in the top coat eat the old finish. Multiple Very thin coats would be the way to go. You could always get the bulldog remade and then sand/strip the entire facedown to the veneer, re apply new bulldog, then top coat.

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