237 flywheel?

[Freightrain]

Well, radiator is hooked up so I fired it off. Still no exhaust, but that is next on the list.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CK_Ukv3wr88

Gotta chuckle at the black smoke.  I couldn't really razz on it hard as it would blow my drier vent hose off.  I know these old motors would block the sun back in the day.

[Maddog13407]

the B613's and B61SX's and special orders usually had the bigger radiator like you have. the one that pretty much fills the horse collar. the cheaper smaller radiator was squared off at the top and bottom and not angled like yours to fit the horse collar. dunno really how much more cooling it was but the tanks were def bigger

[HeavyGunner]

Sweet video! Truck sounds good. Looks like you did a very nice install. 

[terry]

Love the sound of them early turbos!   terry

[Bigdogtrucker]

9 hours ago, Maddog13407 said:

 

Hey Maddog  Bruno Bartnick is interested in talking to you, believe you have one of his old trucks!  shelbart@roadrunner.com. ph. 315-724-4466 

[Freightrain]

9 hours ago, Maddog13407 said:

the B613's and B61SX's and special orders usually had the bigger radiator like you have. the one that pretty much fills the horse collar. the cheaper smaller radiator was squared off at the top and bottom and not angled like yours to fit the horse collar. dunno really how much more cooling it was but the tanks were def bigger

I know it is a very, very tight fit back in that collar.  You have to remove the brass drain valve to get it out of there.  Too much paint and it won't slide through.

I ran it long enough to get the temp gauge to start to rise.  Being it was only mid 30's the paper I put in front of the radiator helped.  I had fogged the neighbors for long enough and shut it down.

[HarryS]

Really sounds good. Turbo gets your ear.

[Maddog13407]

I agree. sounds like it runs good Larry. and my truck has the bigger radiator. I had to shoehorn It back into the color and you can see where it rubbed originally on the sides and I had to take the draincock out of it to get it out

[Mike]

Larry, sure looks and sounds great. You'll be wanting an upgrade on the trans next. LOL

I say go for it. 

[Freightrain]

Well what I've been hearing is that isn't as easy as it seems.  Maybe not?  Dual disc clutch, deeper bellhousing, change in clutch linkage, etc?  I think I'll just let it go for now(and likely for a longgg time).

[Freightrain]

WTF......can't I buy V clamp for my exhaust??  No one has a clue along with Mack dealer.  Got a wide groove version but it wont grab my downpipe enough.  I tried massaging the clamp but I think I will have to add some wire to the pipe side to get it big enough to tighten it.  Ugh.

Did get the oil changed.  6.5 gal to the full mark.  It now pegs the 100# gauge if you give it some throttle when cold.  I know it was 60# hot the other night when I got some heat into it, like 160*.  40# at idle hot.

She has a pretty good lope when cold.  Really rocks the truck.  Smoke?  It fogs the neighborhood.  It does clean up when it warms up some.  Did move it a bit back and forth so I know the clutch works.

 

Did get some fab work done on the bunk replacement parts.  The lower ledge is built.  Now for the corner piece.  Get it put in and then a door.  3 wks til I got to leave!!

[41chevy]

I went looking for some for my Mustang. I called it a Vee Clamp, Gabrielli  MACK called it a Groove Loc,  Long Island Truck Parts called it a V-Lock clamp. Got them from White Water Marine Supply, used on Hypo boat exhaust.     Paul

Edited March 26, 2016 by 41chevy

[j hancock]

Glad you are making progress!

Like the style Paul posted.  The joint between the turbo and first pipe should be V clamp Mack #48RU2341.  Seems to measure 4" using my calibrated eyeball.

Kick your dealer in the volvo.

[AZB755V8]

1 hour ago, Freightrain said:

WTF......can't I buy V clamp for my exhaust??  No one has a clue along with Mack dealer.  Got a wide groove version but it wont grab my downpipe enough.  I tried massaging the clamp but I think I will have to add some wire to the pipe side to get it big enough to tighten it.  Ugh.

 

I was looking for a while for the V-Clamps and Heavy Spring clamps for on turbo hoses. I found them all at www.azsupply.com Don't know why I can't link it.  But got 10, 4inch heavy spring clamps for $48.00 with free shipping, made in the USA. Same as Mack at a fraction of the price. Part# B9224-413B. They are made by Breeze.

[Underdog]

WTF......can't I buy V clamp for my exhaust??  No one has a clue along with Mack dealer.  Got a wide groove version but it wont grab my downpipe enough.  I tried massaging the clamp but I think I will have to add some wire to the pipe side to get it big enough to tighten it.  Ugh.

Did get the oil changed.  6.5 gal to the full mark.  It now pegs the 100# gauge if you give it some throttle when cold.  I know it was 60# hot the other night when I got some heat into it, like 160*.  40# at idle hot.

She has a pretty good lope when cold.  Really rocks the truck.  Smoke?  It fogs the neighborhood.  It does clean up when it warms up some.  Did move it a bit back and forth so I know the clutch works.

 

Did get some fab work done on the bunk replacement parts.  The lower ledge is built.  Now for the corner piece.  Get it put in and then a door.  3 wks til I got to leave!!

Larry, got the same trouble when I built my new engine for the F. Pegs the oil pressure gauge now. U freaked out when I first started it up, but Mack guys say the ESI E6's get up to 120 PSI. So I'm just looking for a 150 PSI gauge. Mine idles hot around 60 pegs the gauge above 1500 RPM.

[Freightrain]

Well, the first clamp I got from Cross truck was too big(5"), so I returned it for a 4".  It is a narrow groove and would not get around the big cast iron pipe.  They didn't have a wide version so I went to Mack.  They couldn't come up with a real part number(since I didn't serial number from the truck it came from) so he got a few from the back and I picked one.  It sorta fits but won't grab the pipe side enough.  It might be the downpipe I bought is too small on the clamp area for the clamp to grab it tight.  I am going to check the part number I bought and compare Jim's number.  All else fails I'm going to just modify the pipe side and make a "spacer" to thicken it up and give the clamp something to hold onto.  We'll see.

The clamps are made by Breeze that I bought.

Glad to hear the oil pressure is not out of line.  I don't think I will worry about changing the gauge, yet.  Like I said when it warms up it stays around 60# or so when I rev it up.

[Freightrain]

Here is what I bought. Stupid phone has it sideways.  I brought the pipe to work.  Going to use the new plasma cutter to make a ring to thicken the flange.

[thomastractorsvc]

On 3/26/2016 at 4:37 PM, AZB755V8 said:

I was looking for a while for the V-Clamps and Heavy Spring clamps for on turbo hoses. I found them all at www.azsupply.com Don't know why I can't link it.  But got 10, 4inch heavy spring clamps for $48.00 with free shipping, made in the USA. Same as Mack at a fraction of the price. Part# B9224-413B. They are made by Breeze.

http://catalog.azsupply.com/viewitems/all-categories-clamps-v-band-clamps/v-band-clamp

[Freightrain]

Thanks Robert for the link.  Looking at the dimensions, the one I have is pretty close to what I need.  The "C" dimension hits the casting(on the turbo side) before it hits the pipe on the other side.   I think the biggest issue is the flange diameter of the pipe I'm using is just small enough that it won't fit up into the V enough to clamp tight.  Thus I'm going to thicken the width just about 1/16" to get the clamp to tighten up on it.  Going to cut a ring from some sheet metal, just enough to fit the flange area.

I looked at BT10494, it is just a touch thinner at the "B" dimension.  Not sure if that would help or not?

[Freightrain]

I posted a question in the fire apparatus forums and Don stepped up with a VIN number for me.  My local Mack dealer had the clamp in stock and my exhaust is now assembled.  

I can't say enough about the people here.  From mass confusion to the right part in a matter of a few hours.  Thanks guys

 

[Freightrain]

Well, all is better........now if I could get that clamp to tighten enough to make it NOT leak.  Ugh.  I pulled the casting off the engine, used a small hammer to "finesse" the downpipe to fit the taper better.  That helped, not totally.  Might try some hi temp silicone, as the casting is kinda rough and likely why it leaks.   Once I get that done I will get the other fender back on.

[BC Mack]

23 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Well, all is better........now if I could get that clamp to tighten enough to make it NOT leak.  Ugh.  I pulled the casting off the engine, used a small hammer to "finesse" the downpipe to fit the taper better.  That helped, not totally.  Might try some hi temp silicone, as the casting is kinda rough and likely why it leaks.   Once I get that done I will get the other fender back on.

a tube of "muffler cement".... might be better than the ht silicone?

BC Mack

[Hobert62]

5 hours ago, BC Mack said:

a tube of "muffler cement".... might be better than the ht silicone?

BC Mack

I bought Some  at advanced auto parts once that came in a toothpaste tube.    It reminded me of jb weld.   

[cpgeneration]

R/E Flywheel and crankshaft.

·        You might want to look into a insert such as a Time Cert I do not know if the web of the crank flange would be deep enough to install them.

They are real strong and this would allow you to go back down to the .625 bolt size.

Do not get the time cert confused with a Heli coil they have a more robust system, I have used them on different repairs and have had great results.

on the other side, if when cut the .750 flywheel bolt hole has sufficient material left and the holes in the flywheel can be bored on the correct bolt circle and finished size that would also work.

You might have to ream them to finish size of the bolt shoulder diameter. the fit in that area is critical the flywheel needs the correct fit to the bolt shoulder in addition to correct clamping force to the crank flange..   A local truck machine shop could set it up on a Bridgeport with a rotary table and do the cutting for you.

Edited April 5, 2016 by cpgeneration

[Freightrain]

I am very familiar with thread serts. I like them better then heli coils.  There was no enough meat on flange to do that.  I just machined the holes to 3/4".  Worked well.

I work at a machine shop.  I did all my own work.  The bolts fit snug in the holes.  I don't see any reason it won't work fine in my application.