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Hi....I'm helping out a friend and I'm trying to remove the front brake drum off a RD688S....airbrake released, wheel spins, but drum wont budge pass the wheel lug bolts....is the drum held on with just brake pad friction or a set of bolts on the rear? Sledge hammer doesnt work and a cant build a puller since the axle flange is rubber and doesnt seem like it'll support any pressure...thoughts if can?? Thanks so much!!!

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I have beat them with a sledge hammer till it wore me out . I put a jack against the frame once and popped them off that way and I pulled the hubs before and pulled the whole unit off then put them in a press to separate them. Good luck

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Back the slack adjuster off and take a sledge hammer and hit the drum right above the studs on the corner. Might have to hit a couple of times but it always works for me.

This is Mack country. On a quiet night you can hear a peterbilt rust away.

Always back the slack adjuster/brakes off. I run them all the way back so there is a good size gap between the shoes and drum. Then beat the drum with a sledge hammer.

Righty-tightey

Lefty--loosey

Once you have the everything together and the wheel back on, you will have to adjust the brakes. Turn the slack adjuster to the right/tighten until it stops, this is when the brakes touch the drum. Then turn the slack adjuster to the left/loosen 1/4-1/2 turn. The wheel should spin.

The only time the brakes have to be released is when you're working on the rear brakes because of the spring brakes/parking brake. Front brake cans are just service/regular brakes. You can tell the difference by looking at them. Rear spring brake cans are bigger.

thanks.....adjusters backed off...lefty loosey....but i've sledged the crap out of them and they are not budging....pipejack off frame is next....

check closely around the out side of the drum between the lug studs for 2or more recessed flat head bolts holding the drum to the hub soak the back side of drum with a good penatrent

I SEE hmmmm no hold screws appears to be a gap around all the studs never seen one glued on am assuming you have slack adjusters backed all the way off you should be able to move the shoes around in the drum I suggest you find a penatrant called (kroil) comes in spray or just licquid form put that on all around the studs and where ever else you can get to let it soak a couple hours find a piece of oak or some other hard wood set that on top of the drum and get the biggest sledge ya got a couple of whacks like you mean to hurt it should knock them loose ps I have a 16 pound hammer on a 4.5ft handle for thing like that

If all what everyone has prescribed hasn't worked try a port-a-power from the frame to the edge of the drum. Apply some pressure then spin the drum and repeat as necessary. Soak it with pb blaster or any other penetrating oil. You could also use some heat on the face of the drum where it seats on the hub to expand the drum and hit it with a heavy hammer.

Jerry rigged a chain on the rear lip of the drum and connected the chain to A truck and pulled the drum off of the hub....drum was worn so bad it had a lip on the inside that was preventing shoes from sliding off easily... it seems we may have been able to jack up the drum evenly to slowly slide the drum off the lip but it would have been a delicate maneuver and with a big drum like that..but thanks for the ideas..the jack on the frame was definitely next!!

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