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Some while back I found E6-350 factory rebuilt engine with no miles but with rust inside due to the poor storage.

Would like to get it back to life and need 6 new 0.20 repair size liners.

I checked out local part stores and was offered with PAI ones for $50 each together with shipping and so on.

That seemed fair to me.

Just wonder how good about quality could they be?

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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Thank you for the suggestion David.

I just once heard (on here?) than not everything is good with PAI parts and that makes some doubts.

Should I hone liners after they're in the block or just put pistons in and follow assembly?

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

I checked out E6 overhaul manual and found out I've understood the things a bit wrong.

They indeed prescribe to hone liners after pressing them in but to get a slightly "diamond criss-cross pattern surface".

I.e. not to correct their shape for the reason of perfection.

I just used to suppose that dry, thin walled liners requre shape-in after pressing into a block what means machining and honing.

Wet ones are a different story.

So Mack E6 surprizes me.

My plan is to sandblast and paint the bare block. If I need to hone it I should do it before that.

If I can just put liners in at my shop I would paint it first.

Thank you for the advices folks.

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

Ant going to do any good checking for out of round cause you cant do nothing about it and on top of that give it maybe 40000 miles and it will seat anyway.I have checked them many times and most all of them are out of round maybe .001 They will be out more than that if you have a main brg cap down.I remember years ago when we use to check the inside of liners on old mack with a inside mic.You could turn it long ways with the block and set it were it would hang in there by its self and reach down with both hands and try to push each side of the block to the center with a slight pressure and the inside mic would fall thru.Those blocks are flexable to some degree.I do remember when you had to hone liners to a fit on the old 673.You put them in with dry ice with a .001 press fit then hone with a drill motor and cant remember but very slow rpm and a 10 grit rock I think.Up and down fast or you would not have a cross hatch pattern.

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glenn akers

Ant going to do any good checking for out of round cause you cant do nothing about it and on top of that give it maybe 40000 miles and it will seat anyway.I have checked them many times and most all of them are out of round maybe .001 They will be out more than that if you have a main brg cap down.I remember years ago when we use to check the inside of liners on old mack with a inside mic.You could turn it long ways with the block and set it were it would hang in there by its self and reach down with both hands and try to push each side of the block to the center with a slight pressure and the inside mic would fall thru.Those blocks are flexable to some degree.I do remember when you had to hone liners to a fit on the old 673.You put them in with dry ice with a .001 press fit then hone with a drill motor and cant remember but very slow rpm and a 10 grit rock I think.Up and down fast or you would not have a cross hatch pattern.

know where you`re coming from but if you should have one 0.10-0.12 out likely theres a high spot in block that was`nt cleaned up. have seen such on 2 cyls. in same eng.

Too interesting facts, thank you for pointing me out.

I sure will check the cylinder geometry after installation, at least to avoid any abnormal issue.

The engine I'm going to put my hands on was a factory rebuild unit with machined liner seat holes.

The liners (together with pistons) were new there with no miles on.

Some stupid guys just layed it on the ground in the yard for some years, probably being headed to scrap it in the end.

Some water came in through the injector holes and rotted the liners. Although it was possible to make measurments.

I did it and was surprized a bit since the liners were honed up to the upper limit of their size to be machined to.

It seemed strange to me, if I hone a block (or do it in a shop) I'd make it about a lower limit or near a middle of a range.

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

99.9% of all new liners are fully machined and Cross Hatch honed from the manufacturer. Older ones could have needed honing because of the non computerized machining we have now. No matter how good you are, you will not match the "correct" CNC machine and honing processes when the liners are made.

When the head is installed and torqued down all the dimensions change. All my cylinder machining and honing on both gas and diesels is done with torque plates installed.

Just my pennies worth of input. Paul

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Have fun pulling those liners couldn't get mine out even with the proper tool had to take a torch and heat mine up in a line from bottom to top in three places even then the tool struggled to get them out. Installation was much easier I left them in their boxes and put them all in the freezer for a day they dropped right in like they original equipment.

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Have fun pulling those liners couldn't get mine out even with the proper tool had to take a torch and heat mine up in a line from bottom to top in three places even then the tool struggled to get them out. Installation was much easier I left them in their boxes and put them all in the freezer for a day they dropped right in like they original equipment.

I don't know if you have a mig welder but you can run a bead or two top to bottom instead of using a torch. Have done that on a dry sleeve block I'm sure I'd work on a wet sleeve 2

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