Firewall Insualtion,

[Red Horse]

Guys,

we are stripping my B cab before it goes to the soda blaster. As for the formed inplace insulation on the cab firewall (interior) anyone have any ideas as to what you replace that with? I'm sure no has any of that in inventory.

Appreciate any suggestions.

[b61mack]

Guys,

we are stripping my B cab before it goes to the soda blaster. As for the formed inplace insulation on the cab firewall (interior) anyone have any ideas as to what you replace that with? I'm sure no has any of that in inventory.

Appreciate any suggestions.

Barry at Watts Mack had some in stock at the Lititz truck show give him a call or click the B- model store and check there.

[vanscottbuilders]

Before I were to put the cab back together - I would try "Lizardskin"

ceramic coating insulation on the firewall - both sides and the floorboards - both sides.

In the doors, and inside the rest of the cab will help a lot too.

Used it in a number of rod projects - and it works very well.

Then I might consider some high heat foil backed high density foam heat &

sound insulation under the rubber mats. Pretty commonly available stuff.

Not original, but a lot more pleasant to drive than what it came with.

Paul Van Scott

[monty]

Before I were to put the cab back together - I would try "Lizardskin"

ceramic coating insulation on the firewall - both sides and the floorboards - both sides.

In the doors, and inside the rest of the cab will help a lot too.

Used it in a number of rod projects - and it works very well.

Then I might consider some high heat foil backed high density foam heat &

sound insulation under the rubber mats. Pretty commonly available stuff.

Not original, but a lot more pleasant to drive than what it came with.

Paul Van Scott

Gday Paul.

So you have actualy used this Stuff? and what they say is correct?. i had a look at the site today and was pretty impressed with the product.

I would not mind using this stuff for my rig when it comes time to do the cab. i would like to do the insides of the doors, roof, floor, under the floor and the firewall. whats the application like,

http://www.lizardskin.com/pages/testimonials2.php

http://www.lizardskin.com/pages/testimonials4.php

After the application would you still recomend some foil and foam on the floor and the firewall and roof? just want to find out as much as possibule before getting some sent to oz thats all, Q? might be a bit repeditive, just want to know more about using it and then afterwards.

has anybody had an experance with this stuff? http://www.dynamat.com/index.html would it still be worth painting it with lizardskin and some layers of dynamat?

Thanks Monty

Edited October 28, 2008 by monty

[HeyCharger]

has anybody had an experance with this stuff? http://www.dynamat.com/index.html would it still be worth painting it with lizardskin and some layers of dynamat?

Thanks Monty

Hi Monty. I've put dynamat on my firewall and under the floor.

To be honest, I cannot notice the difference. Still insert earplugs and wear earmuffs.

Rod.

[Rob]

Hi Monty. I've put dynamat on my firewall and under the floor.

To be honest, I cannot notice the difference. Still insert earplugs and wear earmuffs.

Rod.

While the floorpan and firewall are great transmitters of noise and heat to the passenger compartment of a motor vehicle, they are not the only culprits that need addressed. There is a lot of resonance transmitted via the cab back panel, roof, and doors. If you will purchase and install sound attenuation pads to these area(s), then cover them in another type of material such as "Dynamat", you will be most impressed. The doors will require the window mechanisms be disassembled almost completely, and hand fitting the material behind the guiding tracks and actuator assembly. Sound attenuation pads glued to the exterior door skin on the inside will help trememdously.

I use the name "Dynamat" as an easily recognized name brand. There are much less expensive, competing products on the market that work as well.

Pay particular attention to the roof and rear window surround areas as these are nearest the ears of the passenger(s).

If lead weren't so expensive and heavy, it would be the best to use as it is the most dense material commercially available.

Rob

[Red Horse]

Guys,

thank you all for your responses. Lizardskin looks pretty good, but as with so many of these things, a little creativity goesa long way. For example, I'm thinking Lizardskin on everything then perhaps plain syrofoam sheet on the cab back panel and even above in the headliner? Or if you are not talking about moving parts (doors) even expanding foam? As log as you don't get the kind that has too high an expansion rate

[vanscottbuilders]

Monty,

I would use the sound attenuation mats and foil insulation

in addition to the Lizardskin.

Lizardskin also has a sound deadening product - I have not used that.

The heat insulating coating is quite effective.

I'm pretty much convinced that the B cab was never made to be quiet

or cool (at least not in summer). But, with the Dynamat or similar insulation

applied over the ceramic coating, I think you will get close.

It's worth the money to try the Lizardskin.

Paul Van Scott