Front "shocks"

[Black Bull]

Thanks for that.

Pretty much what we did last night anyhow.

BUT, we had to to heat the shocks up to get the oil out as it was like tar.

For now I've got SAE10 oil in them, as they're mainly only being fitted for asthetics

[41chevy]

Thanks for that.

Pretty much what we did last night anyhow.

BUT, we had to to heat the shocks up to get the oil out as it was like tar.

For now I've got SAE10 oil in them, as they're mainly only being fitted for asthetics

I would suggest you run the Fork Oil in them. Down the line it won't solidify like regular oil and with the additives in it will actually flush more of the old crud out. Paul

[RRJordan]

Are these like the Houdaille (hoo-day) shocks that are familiar from the old Fords? If so, Ford literature from the 30s and 40s might be helpful. Flushing is a good approach because it can take a lot of force to disassemble a Houdaille.

[Freightrain]

Mine are at a slight angle, not perfectly vertical.

I've had mine off the chassis, they do move. There is a small oil cap on the top, I put some light oil in them and worked them back and forth. This was some time back, haven't looked into them since. I don't really think they move all that much anyhow. Maybe if I put real shocks on it and could compare, but likely never see much difference.

I noticed a better ride after I rebuilt the springs and had new bushings installed. Seems to have a bit more "give" to the ride. Not that a '59 Mack has any kind of ride quality. I did ask about a tapered leaf arrangement for it. Not available. I suppose if I designed it myself and had them built it?

[41chevy]

Are these like the Houdaille (hoo-day) shocks that are familiar from the old Fords? If so, Ford literature from the 30s and 40s might be helpful. Flushing is a good approach because it can take a lot of force to disassemble a Houdaille.

Similar to them along with the DuBonnet and British Armstrong lever shocks. The Delco-Lovejoys use an different less "strong spring" and use a simpler valve system.

Once you clean and make them functional and follow the maintenance schedule (3500 miles) you will have not problems. The Delco-Lovejoys on my 1941 Chevy are 74 years old. A flush and new wipe seals and the are like new for another 70 years.

The difference that nobody sees between tube and lever shocks was two fold.

1) The cost to make Lever Action Shocks was triple with the castings and machine work, than the cost to make Tube shocks. Auto makers increase their profit margin with cheaper to make part.

2) Preform the maintenance on lever shocks they last for ever but people and mechanics rarely or never did. Tubes are a money maker, they wear out and need to be replaces often. Make money for the shock maker, mechanic and parts store/dealer.

[Black Bull]

Hit another Snag yesterday evening.

I've got one side fitted up with new links, Balls & Seals and works fine, however on the Left side, it seems the shock may have been assembled incorrectly sometime in the past.

Looking at the shock perpendicular to the chassis rail, It's normal range of movement should be from 7:30 -10:30 (if you picture a clock face)

However this unit is going 5:45 - 8:45 and is obviously wrong.

So I need to either dissasemble the unit or remove the arm and refit, and I'm assuming here the arm is an interferance fit on the shaft.

I havn't been able to get the top section of the housing to unscrew more than 1/6 of a turn so am really at a loss as how to proceed.

Heading off to Alice Springs next week so havn't got the time to source another one.

Good News though, our 51 LTL is finished, registered and ready to go

[41chevy]

Internally on the Delco-Lovejoy they only go together one way or not at all. The arm is incorrect. Some are on with a pinch bolt, some are splined with a nut and can be reindexed and some are welded. The welded ones you can carefully grind the weld, reindex and reweld. The other option is to center the arm and lengthen the shock link. On the Macks they only move about 25mm (1 inch) each way never full travel.

Some pics, sorry the parts weren't cleaned up.

Looked through my Shock and Shock Link Catalogs sheets. Your MACK used Hydraulic Houdaille Lever Shocks in the time period. These are the same less the shock link.

Click pic

[Vladislav]

The LTL is awesome!

Do you mean you're not going to go to Alice Springs with it?

You don't noted on what side of the globe you are.

The steering wheel of LTL could be seen on the pictures though.

Looked through my Shock and Shock Link Catalogs sheets. Your MACK used Hydraulic Houdaille Lever Shocks in the time period. These are the same less the shock link.

Click pic

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That's pretty interesting. Any facts on how to take them apart? Turn off the notched nut? Or there's nothing to inspect inside so to paint them solid?

[Black Bull]

Yes the B Model and the LTL will be going to Alice Springs Next week.

We're based just at the bottom of the blue Mountains just outside of Sydney.

The LTL is a US spec unit fitted with a Big Cam Cummins,Quad box & Joey

The B Model is an Aussie Spec with a 2V E6 and Quad Box.

As to the shocks, Thanks for the info Guys. At this stage looks like they'll be staying off..

[41chevy]

.That's pretty interesting. Any facts on how to take them apart? Turn off the notched nut? Or there's nothing to inspect inside so to paint them solid?

They are a vane type rotary shock. They require special tools and a fixture so you do not damage the housing, shaft or shoot the high tension spring through any body.

The biggest problems are they were originally filled with either Glycerin or Mineral oil. both jell after years. Remove fill plug and drain what you can, light heating will allow the oils to flow some. Fill with Hydraulic Jack oil work the lever back and forth and drain the oil. Do that a few times and refill with the filler plug in the same position as when it is mounted. Fill to bottom of hole NOT ABOVE IT. THe Rotary unit needs that air space for expansion. Over fill it and the seals will blow and it will leak oil badly.

Regular oils (Engine and Fork oils) react with the Glycerin and Mineral oils and wlll actually curdle them like FETA Cheese. The shocks are than basicly destroyed. Paul

[Vladislav]

Paul, thank you for clearing me up and advices. Hope after multi draining-refilling I will be able to check the final condition.

Just need a time to put my hands on them. Actually they're fitted onto the frame together with front fender brackets. I don't want to fit the last ones yet since they limit access to the engine area. So shocks is a future affair.