NEWAY equalizing beam end stud remove

[Vladislav]

I've got the extra set of Neway rears for the R-model and start prepairing them to obtain a better shape.

Every beam has a stud on the end to attach a traverse. Mines aren't nice about threads.

Does anybody knows how to turn them off? It seems like some kind of pin is pressed into the beam's body to lock the stud from turning. Should I try to press it out or maybe drill through?

More questions. I noted in two beams the studs are longer than in the other two. It seems strange to me since all 4 beams are from the same vehicle and I noted nothing different in the way the travese beams are attached on the both FR and RR axles.

And are those studs avalible for sale? Or are they common ones and I may just order them in a machine shop?

 

 

 

Edited January 31, 2020 by Vladislav

[fullfuel01]

You have a dowel pin to remove and you heat the tube. You can use a tube to put betwen the nut and the equalizer to force it out while toghtening it. Normaly the new bushing will be loose on the equalizer because of wear and rust. We rebuilt them with weld and grind it!

[Vladislav]

Do you mean those studs are just put into equalizers, not turned into a threaded hole in it?

Do you torch the tube to get the pin off either?

[Freightrain]

I "rebuilt" mine a couple years ago. The threaded parts were "ok" but the diameter where the bushing rides was like 1/4" under on diameter(or more). They were bad. I just welded them up and kept grinding til the bushing fit on again. I didn't take them off the truck, as I didn't rebuild the front bushing til the next summer?

I also read about the pin that you could remove and install new threaded stud. I didn't want to open that can of worms!

I was stupid, as I had the frame section all blasted and painted before installing on the truck. I wondered about those bushing but figured it was alright. Not.

I should have taken them apart when it was sitting in the driveway all summer like this..............

I waited til I put the truck together and then fought with them. Ya, I'm stupid like that sometimes.

[41chevy]

Do you mean those studs are just put into equalizers, not turned into a threaded hole in it?

Do you torch the tube to get the pin off either?

The dowel pin is also called a roll pin. There is a puller to remove them, kind of looks like an "easy out" .

[57 bcr]

A friend of mine had his done last winter. His had been welded in the end of the beam. Had to cut the old ones out, have a machine shop make new ends,and then had them welded back in. Worked out well but still a bitch of a job. Al

[Vladislav]

It looks like many of you guys went that path. I feeled attractive to just sand blast and paint the parts as is but looking them better I resolved to go calm. My end tubes seem not too bad about rotting off the size excepting the one. Although I have 2 extra ones more so whole 6 beams to choose from. With some stud thread issues though.

So still two questions:

Is the cotter pin beveled or straight cylindrical or threaded?

Is the stud end in the tube flat or threaded and is turned into?

Just want a little bit of knowledge before I got a torch and a big hammer.

Thanks for the inputs.

[kscarbel2]

As far as Neway is concerned, those studs are not serviceable.

http://ww1.safholland.us/sites/damedit/literature/XL-AK384-en-US.pdf

http://ww1.safholland.us/sites/damedit/literature/XL-AK398-01_en-US.pdf

http://ww1.safholland.us/sites/damedit/literature/XL-AK424_en-US.pdf

[Mcrafty1]

I "rebuilt" mine a couple years ago. The threaded parts were "ok" but the diameter where the bushing rides was like 1/4" under on diameter(or more). They were bad. I just welded them up and kept grinding til the bushing fit on again. I didn't take them off the truck, as I didn't rebuild the front bushing til the next summer?

I also read about the pin that you could remove and install new threaded stud. I didn't want to open that can of worms!

I was stupid, as I had the frame section all blasted and painted before installing on the truck. I wondered about those bushing but figured it was alright. Not.

I should have taken them apart when it was sitting in the driveway all summer like this..............

I waited til I put the truck together and then fought with them. Ya, I'm stupid like that sometimes.

Think nothing of it, I'm the same way..lol, When it's too tough for anyone else it's just right for you and I....and probably a few more on here. lol

[Freightrain]

As far as Neway is concerned, those studs are not serviceable.

http://ww1.safholland.us/sites/damedit/literature/XL-AK384-en-US.pdf

http://ww1.safholland.us/sites/damedit/literature/XL-AK398-01_en-US.pdf

http://ww1.safholland.us/sites/damedit/literature/XL-AK424_en-US.pdf

Mine is ARD? if I recall. I printed the manual from online. I think it said mine were replaceable?

I did the front bushings the next summer? Worst part was getting the bolt out(all rusted together with inner sleeve of bushing). I then burnt the bushing out. Used a long piece of threaded rod to pull the new bushing in. Worked pretty slick.

Why I didn't do all that work before I assembled the truck??? Ugh.

[41chevy]

It looks like many of you guys went that path. I feeled attractive to just sand blast and paint the parts as is but looking them better I resolved to go calm. My end tubes seem not too bad about rotting off the size excepting the one. Although I have 2 extra ones more so whole 6 beams to choose from. With some stud thread issues though.

So still two questions:

Is the cotter pin beveled or straight cylindrical or threaded?

Is the stud end in the tube flat or threaded and is turned into?

Just want a little bit of knowledge before I got a torch and a big hammer.

Thanks for the inputs.

This is the style Roll Pin in the ones on my 1980 R.

[Vladislav]

As far as Neway is concerned, those studs are not serviceable.

http://ww1.safholland.us/sites/damedit/literature/XL-AK384-en-US.pdf

http://ww1.safholland.us/sites/damedit/literature/XL-AK398-01_en-US.pdf

http://ww1.safholland.us/sites/damedit/literature/XL-AK424_en-US.pdf

Setup I have is ARD-125 as was marked on the tag.

Neway offers those studs under #900 06 380

http://ww1.safhollandtest.com/sites/damedit/literature/xl-ps10457pm-en-us.pdf

[Vladislav]

This is the style Roll Pin in the ones on my 1980 R.

Hmm... I'm afraid years made them look different in my case.

I tried to hit one a couple of times (hard enough) with no luck.

So probably need to heat them up well or just drill off.

Any other ideas?

[41chevy]

The roll pins are tempered Spring steel, don't know how it will drill, but they do shatter. my be able to heat them to anneal the temper out first.

Appears threaded in with the roll pin to lock it on the image. Studs are grade 5 and not 8 that a suprise.

p/n 90044174 Roll Pin

p/n 90006380 Stud 1 1/4 - 12 x 4 1/4” Gr5

[Vladislav]

Mine is ARD? if I recall. I printed the manual from online. I think it said mine were replaceable?

I did the front bushings the next summer? Worst part was getting the bolt out(all rusted together with inner sleeve of bushing). I then burnt the bushing out. Used a long piece of threaded rod to pull the new bushing in. Worked pretty slick.

Why I didn't do all that work before I assembled the truck??? Ugh.

Larry, I remember you fought hard your beams and weld them up but there was nothing posted about the studs.

Hope my tubes aren't that bad but I can't be shure until fit new bushings on them wich I currently have not.

Question: is rubber set tight on a metal center tube of the bushing or might be removed easily?

I might try some used ones since a new set seems costy. I'd need whole 8 of them.

And I already bought new front bushings and pressed off the old ones. With some labour in 20 ton press.

But going to fit new ones in place after painting.

[Vladislav]

The roll pins are tempered Spring steel, don't know how it will drill, but they do shatter. my be able to heat them to anneal the temper out first.

Appears threaded in with the roll pin to lock it on the image. Studs are grade 5 and not 8 that a suprise.

p/n 90044174 Roll Pin

p/n 90006380 Stud 1 1/4 - 12 x 4 1/4” Gr5

Actually those studs have no heavy stress on them along their axle direction since straight movement reaction from the drive axle goes to the frame bracket through the front joint (bushing). Traverse beam is for airbags and seats on the tube part of the equalizer. The stud just keeps the traverse from getting off but no real load at this joint. So probably no extreme strenght is required there.

As of the stud is turned in or pressed in I found interesting the point Fullfuel put in. He said you can get it out with a piece of tube put on and a nut turned on the end of the stud. Turning the nut the stud is being stressed out and should go.

[Vladislav]

It looks like I found the answer on the matter of the stud

http://www.vanhorntruckparts.com/product/28298/Neway-Beam-End-Stud-E-4258/

A common stud all threaded. Probaly must be drilled through when in place and then locked with a pin.

$38 for just a stud doesn't seem nice. Especially multiplied by four and than by 1.6 to import.

[thomastractorsvc]

Can you just chase the treads that are on it? Or have some made?

[Vladislav]

Can you just chase the treads that are on it? Or have some made?

That wouldn't be easy to find 1-1/4 tap here. And rust kills a tap fast.

The ones I have look poor.

My current option is to order them machined. But I need to ask for a good steel, not a "nail material".

And I should take the old ones out for first.

[41chevy]

That wouldn't be easy to find 1-1/4 tap here. And rust kills a tap fast.

The ones I have look poor.

My current option is to order them machined. But I need to ask for a good steel, not a "nail material".

And I should take the old ones out for first.

Tool Steel or 4130 Moly Steel round stock to have them made or use the old studs with 1-1/4 inch Castle nuts and drill a hole in the stud to use a cotter pin to double secure the nuts.

Paul

[Vladislav]

Tool Steel or 4130 Moly Steel round stock to have them made or use the old studs with 1-1/4 inch Castle nuts and drill a hole in the stud to use a cotter pin to double secure the nuts.

Paul

Sounds like a plan.

I think I should drill when a stud is in its place to align the holes.

That way the steel shouldn't be extra hard to allow drilling.

Hope no need in securing the nuts, I put liquid seal on every bolt and nut.

[Vladislav]

Got two of them studs off.

Had to sharp up a couple of hard alloy (concrete use) drills on a diamond wheel and drilled off the pins.

Common steel drills couldn't work there.

Than welded a big nut onto the end of the each stud and warmed up the tube end of the equalizer about red hot.

After good wrenching and hammering the first one got loose and went off.

The second one happened to be a bit easier being shorter along the thread length.

The next pair is ready to follow, just ran out of oxigen to the moment.

 

 

Edited January 31, 2020 by Vladislav

[j hancock]

Nice! The HOT wrench is a wonderful tool in the shop!

I am glad the stickers on your garage door are in English because I really suck at reading Russian.

[Vladislav]

Interesting point, Jim.

I didn't note it.

Actually those gate sandwich panels were made in Russia.

But starting from Soviet times, or might be from tzar ages, every thing from over the border is here better than locally made stuff.

So the most of producents like to mark their job in English to make it look cool

Sometimes I just wonder how do you guys live reading all scripts in your native language and hear all music that way either.

It about seems not interesting to me. And actually the thing I'm not possible to imagine.