Popular Post jackb61sx Posted January 28, 2016 Popular Post Share Posted January 28, 2016 Just signed the paper work today to build a 30'x30' Morton building to put the Superliner in and the B-61 when I get her back from Mack museum. Wanted to go bigger but at that size I only need to go to the building inspector for a permit and the keeps the neighbors at bay. I live in a residential neighborhood so trying to avoid issues. Barn will have 14 foot ceiling and two 10'x12' overhead doors that will look like barn doors that's the wife's request ,,,,lol 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomastractorsvc Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 CongratsNo matter if it was 60 x 100 it would never be big enough, at least this way you can store the trucks out of the weather. 2 Quote Robert"I reject your reality and substitute my own." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhead204 Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 could I suggest 12x12 doors 10 is tight on the spot mirrors...........congrats on the bldg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
57 bcr Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Good deal on getting those beautys indoors. Always a good thing. Al 1 Quote IF YOU BOUGHT IT, A TRUCK BROUGHT IT..AND WHEN YOU'RE DONE WITH IT, A TRUCK WILL HAUL IT AWAY!!! Big John Trimble,WRVA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mack mhe9 Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Easier to heat. And if insulation is in the budget do it. If not at least do the ceiling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yarnall Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 That will be great. I agree. Definitely better to go wider than 10' on the doors if you can. I am yes, you will fill whatever size building you build. Keep us posted on the progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masterwelder Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 I have one10 foot wide door at the shop that I pull a truck through sometimes and it is tight. If you can't go bigger, folding the mirrors in helps. Congrats on the new toy box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Maikshilo Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Nice to have a dog house! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 sounds like a good plan to me I would look at going wider with the doors if you can, not much but it doesnt take much to damage something if its to tight Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PC68 Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 (edited) Hey Jack , come take a look at mine the bigger the better it fills up fast !! I built mine about 10 years ago and at 32' by 42' I wish I went bigger Edited January 28, 2016 by PC68 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxfymn Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 It can never be too big, but the one advantage you will have is that it is only big enough to store the two trucks in so you won't tend to clutter it up with a bunch of other crap.I agree; 10 foot doors are tight.I have a Mitsubishi split unit in my 36x36 building and it does a nice job of keeping it warm at a reasonable price. I think it is much easier on the trucks when they are kept in a heated space. Quote Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post jackb61sx Posted January 28, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted January 28, 2016 Thanks for all the thoughts on the barn, I right now store the truck in doors for a fee of course, but I go in an out of his 10' doors with no issue or having to move mirrors. The real reason for that size was to get the style door she wanted, which added 1,500 to each door. The barn will have a Cupola on it, and have a different color all the way around it like a wainscot 4' ft from the ground around the whole thing, I do plan to insulate it but that will be a year or so after its done. I went for the full 5' concrete wall instead of the poured tubes they could of done it with. The trucks will fit in nicely the B model is only 22' long and the Super is 25' so room to walk around and plenty of room between the trucks. PC I like your barn similar doors on mine with windows at the top and a crossbuck pattern like a barn door on them, will be green steel panel roof and all trim and white sides and a 4 green wainscot all the way around. Mine is similar to this picture in color and with a different door set up and my entry door and windows are on the side. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigben89 Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 BD,Does Morton allow you to share the cost estimate on this project? Working with them now to construct similar, but 36 x 48 in Montana for the same thing shop/ toybox. We haven't gotten to cost yet but I would like to know a ball park. Also, what options did you have? concrete floor, insulation, finished interior etc. Thanks -B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post PC68 Posted January 28, 2016 Popular Post Share Posted January 28, 2016 I built mine about ten years ago , wish I went bigger 12 foot carriage door in front , 10 foot on the side . I did radiant heat in the slab someday I'll finish upstairs . 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackb61sx Posted January 28, 2016 Author Share Posted January 28, 2016 The cost on my 30'x30' non insulated from Morton is $35,000 the foundation and slab are $9,800 and electrify and light fixtures another $4,500. All the site work I am doing. Morton is including the automatic doors also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ekennedy21 Posted January 29, 2016 Popular Post Share Posted January 29, 2016 I have a 42 by 80 morton building with 2 of the cross buck sliding doors and one overhead door around back. built it about 10 years ago and its been great. Right now I am putting up a 100 by 60 kirby steel building with 4 14x14 overheads. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
609albert Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 the previous replies where right ,the bigger it is the more you collect, we built the first Morton in 2006 42 x52 ,it cost 37k, we subed the floor 7k (6"),not insulated.2013 we had another one put up 42x60 ,42k ,subed floor 6" 10k ,12' away and we connected them with a hallway 12x5 we did ourselves ,the new building we subed insulation 12" in ceil.6 " walls a then covered with steel. it ranges betw.15 &20 degrees diff. the 1st bldg. we put in a part 2nd floor 8x42. the 2nd bldg. took 225 tons of crushed concrete to grade the floor up. good luck 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1958 F.W.D. Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 As a building inspector, I have administrated many permits for these buildings. And each and every person that builds one wishes that they had gone with in-slab radiant floor heat. Hint Hint. 1 Quote TWO STROKES ARE FOR GARDEN TOOLS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ekennedy21 Posted January 29, 2016 Popular Post Share Posted January 29, 2016 In the new building I am doing the in floor radiant heat. You might consider doing at least the pipe in the slab because it is a on shot deal. I hear you can do it yourself for not to much cost. You can put a boiler or even just a water heater(for a 30'x30' it would work fine) later if you want. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PC68 Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 That's exactly what I did , I installed the radiant piping over 10 years ago and only this year did I install the boiler . I have the thermostat set at 50 & 60 degrees and I find myself working in a tee shirt . I just received my first heating bill to my surprise was only $75 bucks , if you do most of the work yourself like I did you'll save big $$$ . My other shop where I keep my equipment has overhead blowers and whenever the 14 ' door is opened there goes your heat not to mention the pain in my back and knees working on a cold slab . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackb61sx Posted January 29, 2016 Author Share Posted January 29, 2016 Will look into the radiant heat , like you guys said at least put the tubing in. Thanks for the idea!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PC68 Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 I'm always around Jack if you want to come over and take a look at my set up just give me a call . That's what I did before I started to build , I went around and looked at my customers barns took pictures and got there input . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketturbo Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 I have a 25 x 36 x 16 insulated steel building and heat it with oil fed forced hot ait furnace.it's on the floor so it blows across the floor and warms the shop up fast.minimal duct work,very simple.works great for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h67st Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 Another option is the radiant tube heaters overhead...I worked in a shop with them and the floor stayed warm. Radiant heat is great for shop, house, etc. You can fire it with gas, propane, or oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomastractorsvc Posted January 29, 2016 Share Posted January 29, 2016 My Two CentsIf you decide to put radiant heat in make sure that you get specs for the proper length and size of the heat coils and insulation based off your location and floor size and make sure they put them at the proper depth in the concrete. Don't skimp on the under floor or perimeter reflective material and insulation or the amount of coils needed.My neighbor has it in his shop and after 5 years of tweaks and adding additional insulation and consulting a specialist his is finally working good. He thought he was doing it right, the building people sold him on it and provided the plan and said we do this all the time. A reputable heating engineer that specializes in this type of heating needs to be consulted, otherwise like my neighbor you will be chasing issues and efficiency. Insulation should be Closed Cell spray foam at least two inch than you can finish with fiberglass or open cell. 2 inch of closed cell is like R14, the closed spray foam that I used is fire retardant and does not need to be covered. I had my roof, side wall 18" down and gable ends done on my 30x50 for around $3000. I had already insulated the bottom 8ft and covered in OSB. This past fall I finally finished of the top six 6ft of wall.I added a this for my heat source, inexpensive takes less than 10 minutes to get back up to 60 form the 32 when with both doors 12x12 open. So far pretty reasonable to work, and with the shop completely insulated it seems to stay about 15 degrees warmer than outside. Seems to do the same in the hot summer 15 degrees cooler if I keep the doors closed. http://www.qcsupply.com/commercial-industrial/heaters/garage-shop-heaters/20700-modine-power-vented-gas-fired-unit-heater.html Quote Robert"I reject your reality and substitute my own." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.