wilbur Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Has anyone ever had any luck welding one. Its cracked along the stock weld seam. Every body I talk to says it last for a while but they end up with a new housing eventually. Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post 41chevy Posted February 3, 2016 Popular Post Share Posted February 3, 2016 Drill a relief hole at each end of the crack to relieve the stress, Clean it of grease, paint and mung. Vee it out and weld it up with a stitch weld, not a continuous weld. Paul 3 Quote "OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK" Thomas Edison “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’” P.T.CHESHIRE Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/#findComment-322889 Share on other sites More sharing options...
BGarofalo Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 In my experience they always end up cracking again. 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/#findComment-322912 Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddeere Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 There was a man who had a welding shop here. He would do like 41 chevy said. He would only weld about 1/2" at time let it cool then peen it a lot. A far as I know his work held up. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/#findComment-322995 Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex g Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 If your running truck for a living I would bite the bullet and change the housing Sent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/#findComment-322996 Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilbur Posted February 5, 2016 Author Share Posted February 5, 2016 I have the Axle Surgeon coming out Wed. If that don't work its a new housing. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/#findComment-323109 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Doctor Jr. Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 Just had a phone call last week with the same question. What 41 Chevy said is your best answer Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/#findComment-323220 Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilbur Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 Drill a relief hole at each end of the crack to relieve the stress, Clean it of grease, paint and mung. Vee it out and weld it up with a stitch weld, not a continuous weld. Paul The axle doctor came by and didn't want to do it. Paul ,do you think a Mig will handle the job or will the oil cause too much porosity. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/#findComment-323654 Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyGunner Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Probably be too much porosity with a mig or stick. Hard to get thing really clean, then like Paul said vee it out, then I'd preheat cast before welding and peen it like eddeere said. But I'm guessing after all that work it likely will come back and haunt you so you might want to take Alexg's advice and bite the bullet if this is how you're making a living. Quote The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by the people who vote for a living.The government can only "give" someone what they first take from another. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/#findComment-323664 Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex g Posted February 9, 2016 Share Posted February 9, 2016 Can you find a housing near you if not I have a set of Eatons DS / RS402 P not sure if that's same as you but I'd separate themSent from my SM-G386W using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/#findComment-323666 Share on other sites More sharing options...
fifth wheel Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 The axle doctor came by and didn't want to do it. Paul ,do you think a Mig will handle the job or will the oil cause too much porosity.More of a liability issue, I am sure it can be welded if it has been welded when manufactured.FW 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/#findComment-323705 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsmackpaul Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 low hydrogen rods buy some crack testing spray stuff if you can clean it up with the grinder spray it on find the end of the crack and drill a hole if you dont drill a hole you most likely never stop the crack !!!! if you cant easily get the spray crack testing stuff once its cleaned up heat it up a little bit and spray diesel it will seep into the cracks and as it evaporates off you can see it coming out of the cracks http://www.dymarkindustries.com/product-range/inks-and-dyes/flawchek-crack-detectionI would Vee it out and start again and stitch it back together as described above I wouldnt worry about peening it to much work for menext I would crack test it againI wold then make a big patch to cover the whole area allowing a fair bit more for each end of the crack and fully weld it on thats just me though if it has already cracked it isnt strong enough so a patch is gunna help at least in my mind it would I would have a go at fixing it, it wont cost much and most likely will work fine for many years to come Pauland one last thing Im only a farmer so maybe take no notice of me Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/#findComment-323707 Share on other sites More sharing options...
41chevy Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 A MIG will handle it no problem. The thickness of the steel in the housing is between .187 and .250 thousand thick. Pull the axle and clean , clean it, clean it, clean it. Inside and out where the crack is. If you don't get the oil from the crack area inside the housing the weld heat will suck it into the weld and it will be porous and fail. Clean the paint off the area, dye check to see the full crack. Drill stop holes and vee the crack. Do a small teat weld and adjust the amps the get full penetration. I would peen each weld you do before it cools completely, it relieves the weld stress. Re Dye check and touch up if needed. Quote "OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK" Thomas Edison “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’” P.T.CHESHIRE Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/#findComment-323741 Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilbur Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 I got her fixed today. I made a u shaped groove 1/2in. x 5/16 deep. The axle is 7/16 wall. Filled that up and plated it. I used two plates on top and bottom of the seam weld and filled the center gap. Keeping fingers crossed 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/#findComment-323864 Share on other sites More sharing options...
41chevy Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 I got her fixed today. I made a u shaped groove 1/2in. x 5/16 deep. The axle is 7/16 wall. Filled that up and plated it. I used two plates on top and bottom of the seam weld and filled the center gap. Keeping fingers crosseduntitled.png As long as you cleaned it well, stop drilled the crack and stitch welded it you should be fine. The drilled stop holes are pretty important to prevent the crack from reoccurring. Quote "OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK" Thomas Edison “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’” P.T.CHESHIRE Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/#findComment-323869 Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilbur Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 I drilled a 1/4 in. hole depth of 5/16 deep on a 7/16 wall axle. It welded fine,no porosity at all. The trucks been sitting for a month so all the oil drained down. 2 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/#findComment-323882 Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomastractorsvc Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Check the u bolts and spring pads, more than likely they are loose. There is a reason that the axle cracked, check around the spring pad for cracks. Quote Robert"I reject your reality and substitute my own." Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/#findComment-324539 Share on other sites More sharing options...
ranchhopper Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Most of our newer visions at work had the axle housings crack the springs had worked loose too. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/43867-cracked-eaton-rear/#findComment-324579 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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