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8 minutes ago, hurstscrambler said:

It is in Kingston, MA., the man who ended up with it was a customer of the previous owner (Rudy Taylor) who passed away a month or so back.  I shared a few stories i remembered about Rudy and we had a laugh.  He was a unique guy for sure, very mechanically inclined.  The current owner said that it wasn't for sale, but he thought I should have it.  I'm giving him what he paid for it, and he seemed happy that I want to get it back on the road.  

At the moment I plan on doing an extensive service, fix some of the cab and fender rot.  It's in tough shape, I need to make sure the frame is sound as well.  Long term, from a practicality standpoint I should put a fifth wheel on it and keep it as a long wheelbase tractor with the winch, but it will probably stay as is for this year at least.  I believe the stick with the glitter shift knob is for the winch, so I believe it is a 5 + 4 trans combo.  I'm gonna have to learn quick to get it home!  Any tips for a first time twin stick driver?  

Pick a a range and stay there. 

:) subscribed and good luck 

Edited by j_martell
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Lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part....

agreed. you do not need to use all the gears.

you can probably do fine by putting the aux trans in direct and just shifting the main trans.

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when you are up to your armpits in alligators,

it is hard to remember you only came in to drain the swamp..

Years ago I drve a 62 diamond T twin stick. Very sloppy trans.the way I was tought was to put the aux. box where you need it to start and shift the main box like you should a normal trans. When you get to the last gear on the main box then you slip it in to neutral and move the aux. to the next gear and then repeat.so on an empty truck you won't need all 20. It's like any thing else you will just have to get in and mess around to figure it out good luck and nice find.

I would think that a later model I.H. chassis section and suspension would be the best fix. Probably find exactly what you want easily.  Wit the double rails you can stagger the splice sections. With all the memories I would do what every it takes to get it to the way you want it.    Paul

  • Like 2

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

Thanks for the input, frankly I want to do as little as possible to get the truck functioning again.  If the frame was solid I was gonna put a 5th wheel on it and cut the frame behind the rear axle.   I'm still gonna do the fifth wheel but I will likley take another foot or two of wheelbase out between the cab and axles.  I hate  to think I'm getting in way over my head here, I'm not after a show truck just a simple soilid truck.  I ve been doing some research and it looks like PG Adams offers a pretty good service, that may be an option.  

           Im curious if splicing the frame behind the cab be done with quality results, I'd like to be able to pull a low bed or gravel trailer when this is all said and done.  I'm also not sure if retaining the original rear suspension is wise or if I should move to a more modern setup for easier serviceability and ride quality.   I m happy to have the truck and work on it, but I'm not sure what the most realistic plan is for me to do this and not break the bank.   Andy

 

Edited by hurstscrambler

I have used PG Adams and have found their rails to be a good quality product.

With budget in mind, I would keep the existing rear suspension.  The OEM rear suspension will do better off road than the air.  But, if you plan on bob-tailing often than air ride does have allure.

It will make a bad ass tractor!

Jim

It doesn't cost anything to pay attention.

You can also check with a local steel fabricator to see if they can bend up new rails for you.

There was a very nice IH like yours at Macungie a couple of years ago that came out of Worcester. You might ask around to locate the owner who did a complete restoration of the truck. I believe he was with the Worcester Sand & Gravel owner.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

PG Adams is only 3 hours from me, so in that respect they are my local fabrication shop.  I looked at the truck again today, the outer rails aren't too bad.  If there was a way to cut the inner rail without damaging the outer it would be a straightforward fix.  If i can pull the inner rails out, sand blast whats there and re install fresh inner blanks I would be off and running.  Realistically I don't mind the spring suspension it's not getting driven that often, everything is there and functional.  It probably is the cheapest option to retain it even after having the suspension rebushed.  

IMG_20160508_124434856.jpg

IMG_20160508_124409667.jpg

Chassis' are stretched and shortened all the time with little or no problems. IMO if you feel uncomfortable or worry about being in over your head  I would pay the extra to have a shop do it. You may be able to disassemble and reassemble yourself to save labor. You end up with better welds, no worries and no guess work. 

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

My bet is that by the time you drill out all the rivets, cut any welds, and remove all the accessories you will be better off to just replace both rails. I think this will turn out to be like a lot of jobs, the parts you need to replace will not be all that expensive, but the time and preparation to do the job will be the killer.

You should be able to make a good accurate drawing of the existing rails showing where the holes need to be punched. Get the rails made with the holes punched where you need them and then you can move one item at a time to the new rails after they are welded in. Or you could go all out and replace them all the way to the front.

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Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

After looking at the truck again, it needs new rails front to back.  Im a firm beliver in the "buy once, cry once" motto, i likley will have this truck for a long time, so I should at least consider doing it right.  That said, I sent some basic info to PG Adams, getting a price on three new crossmembers and new inner and outer 5/16" rails.  The double frame on this truck extends to about 2 feet shy of the front bumper.  I'm guessing on the thickness as I forgot to get that measurement.  But as I was typing out the quote form a started to wonder if ordering 1/2" thick single rails were a possiblity to prevent future corrosion issues.  Is this viable, or is backyard engineering a bad idea?  Thanks, Andy

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One of my all time favorite part time gigs I did was helping a friend replace the frame rails on a bunch of Texaco's 9500 GMCs. He would drive the truck into the bay where he would lay the new frame rails out facing the opposite way. The truck was then re-assembled facing out so he never had to back the truck up.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

  • 2 months later...

Thanks for all the advice guys, been real busy with work and haven't accomplished anything on the truck.  I have been hunting around for a parts truck, and may have found something that will work but I'm not sure.  I found a truck in a salvage yard that is close, but it is a different model.  The model designations of old IH trucks is still rather confusing for me but I'm hoping someone can confirm the the frame of this truck is compatible with my truck.  This is the truck, http://candhtruck.com/trucks/1146.  From what I gather this is a gas powered rig and the cab is mounted higher to allow for taller hood side panel.  I'd guess that is just for engine serviceability, and I'm hoping that was accomplished with some bolt on frame brackets.  Thanks, Andy

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s-l1600.jpgs-l1600x.jpgs-l1600a.jpg

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"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

You might try to contact Ron Severino in Candia, NH. He has a restored IH dump (a 210 I believe) along with several other IH's and is a big IH guy. He is a co-owner of Severino Trucking and a very nice guy.

http://www.severinotrucking.com/contact-us

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

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