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14 hours ago, hurstscrambler said:

Wow, thanks alot.  That is very cool, I couldn't find  alot of info on them.  You don't happen to have the same brochure for an F210D?  Maybe I could compare the info on the two, and it would answer some of my questions.  Andy

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"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

Thanks for the info, I was able to talk to Ron, and he is a very nice guy and gave me some good info and much needed encouragement.  He has a guy that can repop the fenders, so that is a relief for me.  He also said he had the same sort of frame issues with his truck.  I would love to not have to fix the frame, but to me I need to fix it before doing anything to this truck.  I looked it over again this weekend and after my researching frame repair I think I have the most economical solution in mind.  My plan is to move the rear axles forward roughly 3 feet, splice in new inner rails in from about a foot under the cab and splice new outer rails in about 4 feet behind the inner splice.  I sent some info to PG Adams, and waiting for a quote.  I also have a line on a used mag drill for short money, I'm hoping to check that out tomorrow.

As I was looking more closely at the truck I found that it was originally a tractor and the wheelbase was as you see it in the pictures.  On the VIN tag it is listed as having a 270" WB, and it was most definitely a tractor.  The frame was stretched, but the splice is right behind the rear axles.  Andy

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Holy smokes that is an impressive counterweight!  Never seen one like it before. 

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The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by the people who vote for a living.

The government can only "give" someone what they first take from another.

8 minutes ago, 41chevy said:

Its needed to move obamas bullcrap around......... :)

                                                      They built a special attachment for that.;) I will try and get some pictures of the 210 if it is visible. Their yard is a mile long.

 

                                                      Truck Shop

 

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Quote

Thanks for the info, I was able to talk to Ron, and he is a very nice guy and gave me some good info and much needed encouragement.  

Glad to help.

I'd re-think the mag drill and have the fab shop punch the holes for you. They will be more accurate and it will save you a bunch of time and effort for not a lot of money.

Edited by fxfymn
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Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

2 hours ago, fxfymn said:

Glad to help.

I'd re-think the mag drill and have the fab shop punch the holes for you. They will be more accurate and it will save you a bunch of time and effort for not a lot of money.

I hate to admit it, but after looking at the truck again has caused me to change my mind again.  I'm gonna pull the drivers side frame and send it right up to P G Adams.  From what I gather they can do the tapers I will need and punch all the holes.  Ultimately it is important to me it have it safe and usable, and putting any money in a truck with a crappy frame doesn't seem like solid logic.  I can probably invest about 10k into the truck this year, I'm hoping I can sandblast the rears, replace the rails, and go through the brake system.  I'm gonna put in for a week off of work in late September, the goal is to pull the one rail and send it to PGA by the end of August, and hopefully have them back by the time my vacation rolls around.  If all goes well I will have all the parts and hardware I need rounded up by then and I can have the truck operational again and out of my friends place before the snow flies.  Then over the winter do some work on it in my own garage.  I'm not looking to make a show truck out of this thing, just clean and usable.  Thanks, Andy

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Thanks, I haven't read your whole post but I have done alot of frame work through the years. For new rail I use X-10 and I haven't used a mag drill for years.

I measure twice sometimes thrice, center punch dead center use high quality 1/4" bit for pilot holes and use CAR Reamers. The holes come out smooth and nice and round. They make 3/8, 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4 reamers, you keep them wet while cutting and they will go through any frame rail lickity split. 

Truck Shop

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10 hours ago, hurstscrambler said:

I don't want to sound like an idiot, but what is X-10 ?

Thanks, Andy

From what I have found X-10 is about as close to the original tinsel strength of existing frame rail.  For years now that's all I use. Weather it be for inside rails or main frame rails. I checked with two different steel suppliers some years ago and that's what they recommended. Never had any issues, welds real nice.

A 25 cent piece will fit the inside radius or it's formed up for frame rail using a 1/2" die in the metal brake. That way the radius matches up with the old rail.

Truck Shop  

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I believe the University of Wisconsin ended up with the IH archives. It might be worth a shot to see if they have the shop drawings for the frame. 

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Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

I was able to pic up the title and the missing passenger side seat for the truck today.  I spoke with the guy who refurbished the pile driving rig and it is in service.  He showed me a few pictures and it is impressive to say the least.  The best I can do for you guys is a link to a video of it on YouTube so you can get a glimpse.  

Then on the way home someone did a number on their car with my trailer hitch.

Thanks, Andy

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Got a little done, it was hot and mostly all torch work.  I wanted to get the winch off, but being as busy as it is there wasn't a machine in the yard to pick it off.  Instead, I focused on the front of the truck.  I'm hoping to get the winch off during the week sometime, then maybe pull the DS rail on Sunday.  There is a huge lifting eye on the engine, I'm hoping I can rig up a gantry of some sort to support the engine from there.  Cribbing it likley won't be easy.  

I realized I made a mistake, the WB is 217" on the truck currently, and that is what the VIN data plate reflects.  I think I'm gonna leave the WB it's current length.  Another interesting thing is that it appears the frame was originally red and the cab and fenders were white.  I think I want to leave it grey and black though.  

On another note, thanks guys.  It's cool to be able to share this project with other like minded individuals.  I'm pretty sure my buddy (who is currently letting me work out of his shop) thinks I'm bat-shit crazy, although he is being very helpful.

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Thanks, it's funny you say that about the A/C.  I'm an HVAC tech, and I'm almost done installing central air in his house now.  I'm pretty lucky in terms of friends we all help each other out and nobody complains.  I'm looking for a gently used system for his shop now, but haven't come across anything.  I have A/C in my shop but don't have the tools needed for this job.   Andy

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