3-53 Detroit Diesel In A Chevy Pickup

[sdthoren]

Hi Scott. Both of my 4-71 series powered sets have SAE#1 flywheel housings attached to them. They also do not use a standard flywheel or flexplate although an automotive flywheel could readily be swapped over.

The 6-71, and 6V-71 series engines also use SAE#1 flywheel housings. All of the larger "V" series engines use an SAE#00 housing in both the 71, and 92 series. I don't maintain anything newer than the 92's. I'm speaking solely of the Detroit powered sets there. All use an industrial flywheel of appropriate size for their respective housing(s), and are direct coupled to their alternators/generators.

Most any transmission available in a medium duty chassis would work for you but I would stay with at least a five speed due to gear spread. The 4-71's are a fine engine but make an awful lot of noise for the power delivered without a very good silenced air cleaner.

Rob

Rob,

Thanks for the information on flywheels and bellhousings - good stuff to know. The genset I have has an oil bath filter on the intake, but not much of a muffler on the exhaust. With all this, it is loud, but I'm thinking with a decent muffler it would be toned down to a decent level.

Has anybody looked at efficiencies of an oil bath vs. a paper media intake filter? How about engine longevity between the two? I have my impressions, but want to see what other people think.

Thanks,

Scott

[Rob]

Rob,

Thanks for the information on flywheels and bellhousings - good stuff to know. The genset I have has an oil bath filter on the intake, but not much of a muffler on the exhaust. With all this, it is loud, but I'm thinking with a decent muffler it would be toned down to a decent level.

Has anybody looked at efficiencies of an oil bath vs. a paper media intake filter? How about engine longevity between the two? I have my impressions, but want to see what other people think.

Thanks,

Scott

Most of the noise is the intake on my detroits. I have mufflers 24" in diameter and 72" in length, (12V-71T's, and 8V-92T's) plumbed to the outside or through the roof with remote cooling towers, (no engine fan) and you still better have ear protection cause it is LOUD!!!

I have heard, and read that paper media air filtration is better than an oil bath setup many times. That is because 100% of the intake charge air is passed through the filter media. As the media loads it's efficiency actually increases for a period of time. With an oil bath setup with a sump, the air goes down the center tube and impacts the oil in the pan and any solid particulate matter is trapped in the oil in theory. There is always some air that gets by without being pulled through the oil and this is ingested but is so neglible that the engine is worn out from usage long before this becomes a factor. Of course I'm assuming good maintenance practices.

Not near the mess with the paper element type either and the counter to that is the media type costs much more than a quart of oil.

Rob

[marvgarr]

an oil bath airfilter is the best filter you can get they filter far better than a paper filter paper filters dont filter fine dust and when they get dirty its worse they pull the dirt through ive seen it why do you think old motors last so long cause they have an oil bath i now my b is clean with its oil bath

p.s just some useless info volkswagen never put an oil filter on there motors i mean the oil vws and when they were asked why they didnt put an oil filter on they said because it has an oil bath air filter with the oil bath it filters so good that the oil never got dirty ive owned many of vws and never lost a motor my sandrail that sees dirt all its life is still running strong after 11 years so there you go like i said just some useless info

[sdthoren]

Rob and Thermodyne,

Both very good points made. My impression so far has been along with Rob's statements; 100% of the air is filtered (to a point/size). But then again, Thermodyne makes a good point with longevity with an oil bath. I have seen too many pieces of new equipment, technology, CAD designing down to the gnat's a$$, that it just can't hold a candle to the old stuff. Guess that is why we are all here with our passion for Mack trucks.

But with everything else the same, as Rob says, "Of course I'm assuming good maintenance practices" is the key to long life of equipment and early detection of problems.

Scott

[marvgarr]

Rob and Thermodyne,

Both very good points made. My impression so far has been along with Rob's statements; 100% of the air is filtered (to a point/size). But then again, Thermodyne makes a good point with longevity with an oil bath. I have seen too many pieces of new equipment, technology, CAD designing down to the gnat's a$$, that it just can't hold a candle to the old stuff. Guess that is why we are all here with our passion for Mack trucks.

But with everything else the same, as Rob says, "Of course I'm assuming good maintenance practices" is the key to long life of equipment and early detection of problems.

Scott

your right scott it all comes down to proper maintenance both filters are good they each have there applications if you run on the highways the paper is great if you run on the dirt oil bath for long life i also think the oil bath is more quit but i could be wrong

[Rob]

your right scott it all comes down to proper maintenance both filters are good they each have there applications if you run on the highways the paper is great if you run on the dirt oil bath for long life i also think the oil bath is more quit but i could be wrong

On some of the "newer" 92 series powered gensets, the intake air comes from roof penetrations and the exhaust exits out the sidewall. These have paper element air cleaners and are very quiet to stand next to when running at 1800 rpm. One does not absolutely need earmuffs. The alternators are most of the noise from cooling airflow. These generators produce between 63dbA to 69dbA when running at full load. All exhausts are wrapped in calcium silicate blankets to further dampen operational noise.

All of the 71 series use engine mounted air cleaners, both oil bath, and dry element of Farr, Donaldson, Vortox, and Baldwin. There really is NO difference in noise, most engine rooms vary between 106dbA, and 115dbA sound pressure. In other words, "Hearing Protection Required". The exhaust on these engines are not wrapped.

Rob

[NoClueJoe66]

Anyone know how to unstick a diesel? Got it unloaded tonight, just to find out it's Fu$%*& stuck..I mean seriously i should have checked that but I was promised that it was alright, still my fault, but people that say they are your friends. If I bought it from anyone on here i could trust you guys. Not sure what to do cause i wanted this to work so bad it was unreal. Wanted to hear the 'ol detroit run so bad, but noooooo....I get the royal screwin it seems. I'm not taking it out on the family, just myself. Kinda beyond mad, at the point we're i'm gonna be a real piece of shit to deal with come tuesday. People like Tom, Rob, Thermodyne, and everyone else on here are true friends which is something you don't see anymore. Just had to vent a little, and any ideas, suggestions, or thoughts, or anything in general you guys might have please share. Not being gay or anything, but you guys ever need anything just ask, if i can't get to you i'll help the best i can, cause i feel that's how a true friend should be. I must be off now...as Otherdog would say.

[marvgarr]

Anyone know how to unstick a diesel? Got it unloaded tonight, just to find out it's Fu$%*& stuck..I mean seriously i should have checked that but I was promised that it was alright, still my fault, but people that say they are your friends. If I bought it from anyone on here i could trust you guys. Not sure what to do cause i wanted this to work so bad it was unreal. Wanted to hear the 'ol detroit run so bad, but noooooo....I get the royal screwin it seems. I'm not taking it out on the family, just myself. Kinda beyond mad, at the point we're i'm gonna be a real piece of shit to deal with come tuesday. People like Tom, Rob, Thermodyne, and everyone else on here are true friends which is something you don't see anymore. Just had to vent a little, and any ideas, suggestions, or thoughts, or anything in general you guys might have please share. Not being gay or anything, but you guys ever need anything just ask, if i can't get to you i'll help the best i can, cause i feel that's how a true friend should be. I must be off now...as Otherdog would say.

well were all friends here always around to help just sometimes a little slow but anyway i like to use atf to unstick an engine (i have to do that to my lincoln welder it has a 2-71 detroit damn cover blew of over the winter) but ive also seen marvel oil used and diesel but dont no how well it works the atf works as does pb blaster best thank to do is pull the injectors out and pour it down the hole and let it sit keep adding to it for a couple of days and start to work it back and forth dont force it take it slow last thing you want to do is mess up a ring land if that doesnt work youll have to pull the head and thats easy to do 53s dont have head gaskets just o rings for the water holes and a big rubber rope for the out side of the head and the block one thing you want to do is if you pull the head off or the injectors make sure you set the rack right or youll have a RUN AWAY and it ant fun there will be broken pieces every were i have a manual for the 53s so if you need help im here

[NoClueJoe66]

I really appreciate it thermodyne, wonder how it would be to pull the head. Just believe i might go that route, i'm so damn stubborn i don't wanna give up. I just wan't this motor to run and for it to go in this truck. Will the motor be hurt if it is stuck? I've seen people unstick gas motors, but diesel is a whole new thing to me. What i was thinking is pull the head and just go from there, but going the injector route sounds easier. I really appreciate it Thermodyne....

[marvgarr]

I really appreciate it thermodyne, wonder how it would be to pull the head. Just believe i might go that route, i'm so damn stubborn i don't wanna give up. I just wan't this motor to run and for it to go in this truck. Will the motor be hurt if it is stuck? I've seen people unstick gas motors, but diesel is a whole new thing to me. What i was thinking is pull the head and just go from there, but going the injector route sounds easier. I really appreciate it Thermodyne....

no problem there is a chance the motor will be damaged but if you pull the head and it is realy rusted then just get some sleeves and a set of rings drop the pan and go from there there real easy to work on but like i said set the rack right or you will be in trouble if the sleeves are just a little rust and its soaked with atf or pb then you can hone it out might burn a little oil but its a cheap fix

[NoClueJoe66]

I believe i'll go ahead and pull the head, maybe i can just hone her out. Who knows, I wonder what rings and sleeves would be for this thing? Wouldn't bother me about it using a little oil, just not wanting to damage it really bad or wors than what it is. They said it run fine, but hasn't been run in 6 or 7 years. I'll go ahead and start tearing down tomorrow evening, we're takin the boys to see santa claus so i'll be busy. Just hoping the head bolts wont break off, and i can't find a tag on the motor. How do you run the numbers thats on the block? how would you find info i mean?

[marvgarr]

I believe i'll go ahead and pull the head, maybe i can just hone her out. Who knows, I wonder what rings and sleeves would be for this thing? Wouldn't bother me about it using a little oil, just not wanting to damage it really bad or wors than what it is. They said it run fine, but hasn't been run in 6 or 7 years. I'll go ahead and start tearing down tomorrow evening, we're takin the boys to see santa claus so i'll be busy. Just hoping the head bolts wont break off, and i can't find a tag on the motor. How do you run the numbers thats on the block? how would you find info i mean?

ill check for sleeves and rings for you head bolts will be fine an overhaul kit is 600 that includes sleeves pistons rings gaskets bearings thats all i can find right now the engine number and serial number are stamped on the right hand side of the block in the upper rear corner

[sdthoren]

I believe i'll go ahead and pull the head, maybe i can just hone her out. Who knows, I wonder what rings and sleeves would be for this thing? Wouldn't bother me about it using a little oil, just not wanting to damage it really bad or wors than what it is. They said it run fine, but hasn't been run in 6 or 7 years. I'll go ahead and start tearing down tomorrow evening, we're takin the boys to see santa claus so i'll be busy. Just hoping the head bolts wont break off, and i can't find a tag on the motor. How do you run the numbers thats on the block? how would you find info i mean?

Joe,

You aren't out much trying to pull injectors and giving her a liberal dosing of PB or ATF over a week or two. My 4-71 has evidence of a rather large pipe wrench on the crankshaft snout/harmonic balancer (too dark to look tonight). Ease in to it, think about how far you are going when you start turning bolts, and let your knowledge guide you rather than emotion (sounds like I've been there, huh?)! Might pull the oil pan drain plug for a couple seconds & see what comes out (I know I'm crossing my fingers for oil)...

Best of luck, it will turn out.

Scott

[Rob]

Joe,

You aren't out much trying to pull injectors and giving her a liberal dosing of PB or ATF over a week or two. My 4-71 has evidence of a rather large pipe wrench on the crankshaft snout/harmonic balancer (too dark to look tonight). Ease in to it, think about how far you are going when you start turning bolts, and let your knowledge guide you rather than emotion (sounds like I've been there, huh?)! Might pull the oil pan drain plug for a couple seconds & see what comes out (I know I'm crossing my fingers for oil)...

Best of luck, it will turn out.

Scott

This may sound obscure but it must work as I've used it a couple of times with success. You need to get that engine warm, very warm. I take a pump with the discharge attached to a water inlet, and outlet of the engine hooked to a water heater to pump and circulate water in the engine. A pump for a camper should suffice, but I use a small double diaphragm pump as these move a lot of water in a short period of time. A piece of rubber radiator hose clamped to an exhaust pipe that has a bung welded into the side and the end welded shut works well for inlet and discharge when clamped to the water pump inlet and upper outlet to what is normally the radiator. Turn the water heater all the way up and get the water flowing through the engine. You will hear the creaking going on as the engine expands internally.

I would definately use a lubricant such as Dexron III to lessen the chances of scoring a liner, breaking rings, and/or destroying a ring land on a piston. Most home water heaters will heat to 200 degrees or so before the thermostat shuts the fuel off so turn it up!

It's always a good idea to "douche" the engine internally with lubricant till the cylinders are full and let it drain into the pan a couple of days any way you look at it. Sure as hell won't hurt anything. It sounds like the engine has sat for a number of years or, water intrusion has happened. Most diesel engines I have been around will set for years before "freezing".

Rob

[NoClueJoe66]

Thanks for the help guys, after sleeping in it i'm gonna pull the injectors and add some atf. Probably gonna pour oil in it from the top so it can run through all the oil valleys to help unstick anything else. Think it would be alright to use used motor oil for the moment. The oil pan has a hole in it from a chisel, "they was gonna haul it to the scrapper", still oil coming out of it. The last little bit that come out of it looked a little milky, but not bad. Gonna get some pb blaster too. I like your idea Rob, probably gonna go that route also. I already have this thing, and it's gonna run again, to go in this damn truck. I'm pretty much determined. I found some numbers on each side of the block Thermodyne, figured it would decode the year and stuff.

[marvgarr]

Thanks for the help guys, after sleeping in it i'm gonna pull the injectors and add some atf. Probably gonna pour oil in it from the top so it can run through all the oil valleys to help unstick anything else. Think it would be alright to use used motor oil for the moment. The oil pan has a hole in it from a chisel, "they was gonna haul it to the scrapper", still oil coming out of it. The last little bit that come out of it looked a little milky, but not bad. Gonna get some pb blaster too. I like your idea Rob, probably gonna go that route also. I already have this thing, and it's gonna run again, to go in this damn truck. I'm pretty much determined. I found some numbers on each side of the block Thermodyne, figured it would decode the year and stuff.

let me no what the numbers are and i can tell you just about everything

[NoClueJoe66]

Well the injectors are out, put the tranny fluid and pb in it. The back 2 cylinders are filled up to the top, and there appeared to be a little fluid in the second one. I'm gonna keep adding to it for a few days and if that don't work i'm pullin the head. I got the numbers off the block for ya thermodyne. the numbers on the left side go

CH43 5125423 110

CWD

on the right side it goes- 5116383

That's what they all appear to be.

[marvgarr]

Well the injectors are out, put the tranny fluid and pb in it. The back 2 cylinders are filled up to the top, and there appeared to be a little fluid in the second one. I'm gonna keep adding to it for a few days and if that don't work i'm pullin the head. I got the numbers off the block for ya thermodyne. the numbers on the left side go

CH43 5125423 110

CWD

on the right side it goes- 5116383

That's what they all appear to be.

not sure joe there should be 8 digit model number on top of the serial number like this

[NoClueJoe66]

Sorry thermodyne, wher excatly would they be at again? I'll look again tomorrow.

[marvgarr]

Sorry thermodyne, wher excatly would they be at again? I'll look again tomorrow.

right hand side of the block in the upper rear corner look at the pic i posted in the previous post

[NoClueJoe66]

Hang on I'll go look again

[NoClueJoe66]

I found it , but i'll have to wire brush it to see it better

[marvgarr]

I found it , but i'll have to wire brush it to see it better

ok hey liner kit is 140 dollars for that motor you need three but that includes piston, liner,and rings a liner is 50 dollars if you need to replace them

[marvgarr]

where did joe go he was going to get the numbers

[NoClueJoe66]

where did joe go he was going to get the numbers

Sorry bud not had time yet, done used up 2 quarts of tranny fluid in her. Not sure if i'm makin any headway, cause the middle cylinder has really slowed down on takin fluid. Hopefullt this'll work out. I stopped to check on parts for your b, but no one was around at the time. I'll try again tomorrow though.