Popular Post RowdyRebel Posted June 26, 2016 Popular Post Share Posted June 26, 2016 ...is voiding the warranty! 5 Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyRebel Posted June 26, 2016 Author Share Posted June 26, 2016 Long block 350 (VIN R) for 1995-2000 Chevy/GMC 3/4 to 1 ton trucks. VORTEC heads (and bought the intake that my 1990 throttle body will bolt up to)...going to do the swap tomorrow. Prep-work tonight. Should bump the power up by about 50% from where it was with that VIN K engine. Block was the same from '86-early 2000's, so it shouldn't give us TOO much trouble... Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedBullDog Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 Where did you source the longblock from, and for how much. I have a 97 Suburban in the garage that needs one of those. Preferably stock setup, as it will be the wifes car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyRebel Posted June 26, 2016 Author Share Posted June 26, 2016 Jegs had it...just a hair over $2K. Summit was a few bucks cheaper, but not after they added a core charge. Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedBullDog Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 Sounds reasonable. Now I need 2K 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 brand new engine parts always a turn on...lol.must be a guy thing......bob 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post RowdyRebel Posted June 27, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 27, 2016 ...so I'm driving down the road when my "check engine" light comes on, so I pull over and pop the hood. "Oh crap! NO ENGINE!" 4 Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 lol....excellent...ill bet it did...bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyRebel Posted June 27, 2016 Author Share Posted June 27, 2016 Well, I THINK I finally have everything I need to get it back together. Had an issue with the water pump...Vortec heads block the thermostat bypass tube in the block, but not realizing that and thinking it was a BLOCK issue, I figured a water pump from a newer truck (that this particular engine would be a direct drop-in) would be needed. Nope. So, had to return that pump and pick up another OEM water pump for a 1990. Turns out there's a pipe plug in the housing that can be removed to run a 5/8" hose to one of the fittings on the intake manifold. If the vehicle's heater core doesn't have a valve somewhere in that loop that closes whenever the heater is turned off, that COULD serve the same function....but since I don't KNOW, I figure it's best to run the bypass. Then there was the whole engine mount deal, where the mounts it HAD were pretty well shot....not much rubber left to 'em. So, I had to pick up a couple of those today, too. Then there was the issue with the crank position sensor (which the new block has the hole for in the timing cover, but the old truck doesn't have a wire to plug into it). I was debating about buying an el-cheapo CPS to fill the hole...but when $65 is the cheapest I can find, well, gotta go to plan B. I'm thinking of using some fiberglass resin I have left from fixing a crack in the horse trailer's roof to fill the hole. Can trim the plastic plug they have slipped in there so that it keeps the oil off the fiberglass, and basically fill it in...or epoxy...or anything of the sort....and do it a heck of a lot cheaper than $65. Picked up some longer bolts to press the harmonic damper back onto the crankshaft as well....the one O'reilly sold me yesterday was too short (2-1/4")...so I swung by the local farm store and picked up some 7/16-20 grade 8 bolts that are 2-1/2", 3", 3-1/2", and 4". When all is said and done, the 2-1/4" bolt may be what I need...just can't get the threads started to press the damper back on. Other than that, the motor SHOULD be ready to drop in. First things first, though, got some work to do on the Mack. Them parts I ordered on Friday were in. Sometimes I wish I had new enough vehicles I didn't HAVE to wrench on them. Then I remember that today's "new" vehicle is tomorrow's "older vehicle in need of TLC"...only difference is the ability of the shade-tree guy like myself to wrench on it. Sure, today's "old" vehicles need to be wrenched on....but I CAN wrench on them. Can't say the same about today's "new" cars. Too much computerized crap. 1 Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyRebel Posted July 4, 2016 Author Share Posted July 4, 2016 (edited) Well, we didn't set any records and we sure as hell wouldn't make it in NASCAR, but we got it in & fired it up yesterday. Edited July 4, 2016 by RowdyRebel 1 Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyRebel Posted July 4, 2016 Author Share Posted July 4, 2016 That's better...tried uploading/posting that from my phone and didn't realize it was a "private" video....should work now. Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurstscrambler Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 That is excellent , I think the GM TBI system is underrated. There like quadrajet carbs, if you take care of them they can provide excellent drivability, performance and won't break the bank to maintain and operate. One word of caution is that those vortec heads are notorious for failed intake gaskets, which can cause oil consumption at an alarming rate. This happened to a friend of mine after he put a truck together for his wife. He was lazy and didn't check the oil for a week or so and the motor developed a knock. That is an awful way to find out you need to replace a $20 gasket, he ended up buying a 383, but it was a costly lesson. I believe Fel-pro offers a quality gasket for that application, as I recall the part # is MS1255. Andy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyRebel Posted July 5, 2016 Author Share Posted July 5, 2016 Didn't think oil ran through the intake, but I used a Fel-Pro gasket when I put 'er together...not sure the p/n off the top of my head, but it was the rubbery type not the paper ones That and a little RTV at the front & back ought to do the trick, but the torque specs on those intake bolts just seem low. Drove it to town today (all I did yesterday was around the block a couple times) and got a "service engine soon" idiot light coming on...which I halfway expected because of the new intake, heads, and cam this motor has that the last one didn't. Still unimpressed with the seat-of-the-pants feel of this motor over the old one, but may have to find a chip or someone who can tune the computer so that it knows what it's working with. Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlotpilot Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 On 6/26/2016 at 9:05 PM, RowdyRebel said: ...so I'm driving down the road when my "check engine" light comes on, so I pull over and pop the hood. "Oh crap! NO ENGINE!" I have one that looks just like that sitting in in our yard even has same color converter. don`t run worth a damn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxfymn Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 Quote "Oh crap! NO ENGINE!" Finally a GM product as quiet as a Prius. Quote Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyRebel Posted July 5, 2016 Author Share Posted July 5, 2016 The exhaust I have on that Suburban ain't too bad...long tube headers, 2.5" into the Y, then 3" through a Magnaflow catalytic converter and a Flowmaster 70 series muffler. Inside, you can carry on a conversation with folks riding in the 3rd row seat without having to raise your voice. I didn't want "loud", because I don't care how much you spend on an exhaust, it's going to sound like crap with an automatic transmission. I LOVE a good, deep rumble from the pipes if there is a manual transmission...listen to that engine sing. The constant drone of an auto, though, just screams "LOOK AT ME! I'M A POSER WHO CAN'T DRIVE A REAL CAR/TRUCK!!!" Automatics are like children...they should be seen, not heard. Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyRebel Posted July 8, 2016 Author Share Posted July 8, 2016 Well, I sure hope I didn't just throw away a couple hundred more bucks. Internet search was coming up with a whole Lotta nothin' in regards to chips for vehicles this old...except for one down in Millington..."Motorvation". They seem to be able to do a custom tune, but what has me worried is the "recommended" fuel is 93 octane. I need it to run on the cheap stuff. Hell, if I thought it'd be OK to run the high-dollar go-go, I'd have put a HO 383 in there. A lot of their ready-made chips also recommend a 160 thermostat...I'm running a 195. Told him over the phone, I'm not looking to squeeze every ounce of potential out of this thing...just need a good running daily driver for the wife that can handle pulling our horses around in the trailer. I need it to be reliable on 87 octane, no pinging or knocking. Basically, I want it to run like the slightly modified 96-2000 long block 350 that it is. It ain't a race truck, so it don't need to run like one. We'll see what I get. Should be here early-mid next week. Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 On 6/26/2016 at 8:05 PM, RowdyRebel said: ...so I'm driving down the road when my "check engine" light comes on, so I pull over and pop the hood. "Oh crap! NO ENGINE!" Probably the quietest engine you have ever had? LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurstscrambler Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 A few of my friends have used this guy with good success. Andy http://tbichips.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ol2Stroker Posted July 11, 2016 Share Posted July 11, 2016 Kinda did something similar for my wife in her "new" Suburban. We went from a 6.2 Diesel and th400 to a '00 5.3 with cnc ported heads, big valves and double springs, nice cam with a 4l80e and a 3200 stall converter. Ours wasn't new but these LS motors are the best things since sliced bread. Heres a few pics. Fun aint it?!?!?! I've still gotta finish tuning it etc, I just wrote a very basic tune so it would idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyRebel Posted July 12, 2016 Author Share Posted July 12, 2016 3200 stall? Damn! I thought it felt sluggish with the 2200 stall converter on there. If I did it again, I'd go even lower...1500-1700. From what I read, that stall speed is the point where the engine just won't turn any faster without a wheel spinning, so for that to happen PAST the engine's power band is useless...want that stall speed at a point where you're still making power, not after you've already peaked and power is fading. Granted, around town daily driving, you shouldn't really feel much difference...but hook to a trailer out in the back 40 after it's been raining and you'll want to be able to use as much of the power band as you can. Then again, everything about this motor I've got is set up to run idle-5000. The "performance" tune on my transmission shifts @ 4000...which was the tune the old motor preferred. This new one likes the "economy" tune I worked up based off the diesel presets turned up a touch. Can't remember if WOT shifts are 3000 or 3500, but it seems happy with that. Of course the chip might change that. Main thing I wasn't liking about the "performance" tune after the engine swap was it seemed to hang onto 2nd gear a lot longer than I'd like, so it's something to work out once the chip arrives and is installed. Other than the lack of power, the wife is happy to have her Suburban back. Hopefully that'll be cured in a couple days when the chip arrives... More importantly, though, I'm happy to have my F250 back. She's been driving it while the Suburban was on the DL...leaving me to drive my old beater Ranger, which is really better off left parked until I can give it the TLC that I've been putting off (it IS just a beater truck, after all...) 1 Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ol2Stroker Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 LOL Yea the point of a high stall is to get the motor right into the meat of the powerband under load.... ours is perfect for the cam/head package. I've got this set to shift full throttle at 6200. I don't have any miles on the tranny yet other than blowing the tires off on the road out front, curious to see how it goes. What trans is yours, I didn't see it listed but if I had to guess I'd say 700R4 based on the tbi and smallblock? Since I went to a 4L80e I can stall it however high I want and then just use the lockup converter when going down the road via the trans tune.... kinda best of both worlds. Also this is more of a toy for her, something to drive when it's nice out it's not really practical for towing and things like that. I suppose a picture is worth 1000 words. [/IMG] Sure feels good to have your truck back I bet! I hate it when I'm without mine for whatever the reason. It's like putting on your favorite pair of jeans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtymilkman Posted July 12, 2016 Share Posted July 12, 2016 You want your stall speed at 3/4 of your peak torque. So if your peak torque is 400 ft lbs you'll want a stall speed at the 300 ft lbs range. GM factory torque converters were usually an 1700-1800 stall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RowdyRebel Posted July 12, 2016 Author Share Posted July 12, 2016 I put a brand new GM Supermatic 4L85E in it last year with a US Shift Quick 4 controller. 700R4 would have been more trouble with the different spline counts on the input/output shafts. 4L80/4L85 is the same as the TH400 that came out...'cept for it's got overdrive and a lockup torque converter. Only had to drill new 1 hole in each side to relocate the cross member...rear hole became the front hole. With the lift, the rear shaft didn't mind the extra transmission length, but the front shaft had to be stretched to the 1991 specs (only year the 4L80 was offered with passenger-side drop on the t-case...'92 went to the driver's side). All in all, it's been a fun project. Chip shipped Monday, so hopefully I'll have that in the next day or two...we'll see how it goes. 1 Quote When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ol2Stroker Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 Funny that is exactly how mine worked out too. tcase and 4l80e from a 91 burban. Moved crossmember back just like you did only having to drill the new rear hole. My rear shaft was ok too, the front I aint concerned about breaking because it needs dana60 front anyway. Nice man!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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