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17 hours ago, Timmyb said:

So you don't use a primer under por 15? 

The frame looks great! I can't wait to see final product. I actually really like the fact you didn't hide all the wear.

Sorry to hijack, They make a por primer but it's more of a metal prep than a actual primer. In my oppinon the stuff isn't worth the label it's printed on.. I put it on my truck frame of my pickup with all the por prep products"$$$" thinking if it works half as good as they say the frame it'll look great for a long time. It spent one one winter in nd oil fields very very little salt. And it's rusting right thru it.im pretty disappointed. I think the best way to do it would like ranchhopper did and seal over it with something else.

  • Like 1
19 hours ago, Timmyb said:

So you don't use a primer under por 15? 

The frame had the original paint scuffed up so the POR-15 will adhere to it and all the spots that were bonded were sandblasted so it was prepped pretty well POR-15 is not UV resistant so it needs to be top coated usually works pretty well for me besides you need a good hardner in the topcoat or it will be affected by solvents and brake cleaner.

I used it on my Ch frame and oil pan and both rusted. I didn't think it held up any better than any other paint. I top coated it also. What ever they put on the roads around here in the winter eats through everything though.

  • 3 weeks later...
On ‎9‎/‎17‎/‎2016 at 2:55 PM, ranchhopper said:

I finally got rid of the original axles and reyco suspension everything is stripped off the frame from the fuel tanks back I primed everything with POR-15 and gave it a coat of black enamel paint. The aluminum frame had some severe electrolysis under the spring hangers, equalizers and fifth wheel frame which were ground down and sandblasted the had filler put in to lever things out. I can still see where the spring hangers were but no where near as bad as it was I have to roll the camelback suspension under it after it dries then shim it and bolt it tight.

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looks great Kevin,,

I used POR 15 on my new frame section.  I had it shot blasted to clean, bare metal by a local company(thus the wheels and trailer hitch).  I then slopped it on with a brush.  I didn't cover it with anything so it is faded now.  BUT, you can't chip it with a sledgehammer.  Granted it doesn't see winter, but you do have to prep the metal properly for it to bite into.

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Few years back I had an Escort wagon for a daily driver.  It had a few surface scratches and they would rust.  I would sand it down and smear a bit of POR 15 on it.  Yup, few months later it would peel off like an onion skin.  It is all in the prep work.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

  • 3 weeks later...

Candy!

If I were you I might be disappointed of what the holes to put bolts in fitting the bogie stand. 

And a question. How did the stand and the crossmembers relate to the alu rails about the width?

Were those parts off a steel frame?

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

The stand came off a steel framed truck I used a 3/4 inch aluminum plate on each side of the trunnion for shims the plates were the same size as the whole mounting plate on the stand. I had to move some of the cross members around so the U-joint on the front axle had clearance I also had a 500 dollar driveshaft built because the front axle had 1810 U-joints and the superliner had 1710 U-joints.

  • Like 1

Here is much cheaper to weld a drive shaft using two different halves with different forks and than balance it.

At least so far and if you have the parts for the conversion.

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

I use NAPA paint its easy to mix and shoot its got the clear coat right in it so after wet sanding it buffs to a nice shine the frame paint was glossy right from the gun so its as it went on the frame no sanding or buffing.

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