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I have a 93 CH613 glider so the VIN doesn't help on anything. Last year broke a axle and had to have the rear housing changed out. The 

shop that did it put a later model rear in,.  It was a hub guide not a stud guide rear, so they used the good hub off my rear on one side.

And notched the drum to fit over the the other.. :huh: Putting new slack adjusters on and there is one inch difference. between front axle and rear.. Nightmare... My question is can I change the brake rings and tubes from the old rear,. 

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Are you saying you have one hub pilot and one stud pilot hub on same rear end. Where exactly is the one inch difference. You should be able to use brake parts of other rear though. I believe only difference in hub pilot is the hub and drum . The rest should be same.

 

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I am helping Eveready with the brake work. The " ring " he is referring to is the brake spider.  The replacement axle should have had 7" slacks however 6" were installed by elongating the hole in the chamber and forcing the clevis onto the slack. The brakes weren't releasing due to the push rod dragging in the chamber. My concern with installing 7" slacks on the rear axle and 6" slacks on the front drive axle is the the force applied to the front axle will be greater than the force applied to the rear axle. The chambers will be traveling the same distance although the S cams will be traveling different distances due to the different lengths of the slacks. Can anyone validate my thoughts about using 6" slacks on the front drive and using 7" slacks on the rear drive?

 

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Yes, you rears should wear quicker than the front, also the rear will lock and slide easer! as for the spiders all I can say is remove one and try it. are you sure the spiders are different or just the slack adjusters.

I would use a square and check the center of the s cam to the center of the air can  mounting flange and compare to the stock axle, then use the slack adjuster that allows "pinning" with no or minimal deflection of the push rod. slack adjusters should be available 1/2 inch increments.      

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The slacks and chambers should match all the way around.  A longer slack will give more leverage/more force for a given air pressure.  Customizing chambers and forcing the clevis is not good.

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Jim

It doesn't cost anything to pay attention.

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15 hours ago, Glenntools said:

I am helping Eveready with the brake work. The " ring " he is referring to is the brake spider.  The replacement axle should have had 7" slacks however 6" were installed by elongating the hole in the chamber and forcing the clevis onto the slack. The brakes weren't releasing due to the push rod dragging in the chamber. My concern with installing 7" slacks on the rear axle and 6" slacks on the front drive axle is the the force applied to the front axle will be greater than the force applied to the rear axle. The chambers will be traveling the same distance although the S cams will be traveling different distances due to the different lengths of the slacks. Can anyone validate my thoughts about using 6" slacks on the front drive and using 7" slacks on the rear drive?

 

  • The spiders are the same but the S cams are different lengths. The mounting plate for the chambers/tubes for the S cams need to be changed. The spiders will need to be clocked differently as the present position has the chambers closer to the frame rail than the distance between the top of the axle and the bumper pad( the chamber would hit the frame before the springs bottomed out).
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  • 3 weeks later...

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