Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I bought myself an early christmas present.  I have heard about this from other places and thought i would give it a try.  Ordered it and it showed up a couple days later.  Seems pretty simple to install, even easier since I already have an electronic speedo for a signal.

 

Not sure how quick I will get it installed but will update as soon as I can.

 

IMG_20161111_173714_671.jpg

IMG_20161111_173250_359.jpg

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

Link to comment
https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/47656-adding-cruise-control-on-a-b-model/
Share on other sites

Lucky mine is a fair weather truck so salt isn't an issue, but I can see your point if you did use it on a daily driver.

My first question is how "heavy" of a return spring can I leave on my pump?  I've got a pretty stiff one right now and not sure how strong that stepper motor is for torque?  Might have to change the spring to a bit softer version?

I know they did offer a shifter mounted unit with a dial on it for speed changes.  I didn't ask about it but I think I'm going to make my own little box and mount the two switches to the compound shifter handle.  That would keep them in easy reach as that is the shifter next to my leg and the most common to have to downshift first if need be on a hill.  Grab the handle and flick the switch with my finger..........sounds like a plan.  I have a small metal brake at work so making the box should be easy enough.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

7 hours ago, eddeere said:

With the addition of this you should have  everything  someone would want on a B model. 

Except fresh paint!!

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

Did a little investigating with my new upgrade yesterday.   Seems the cable is wayyy too long for my application(go figure).  Without cutting things I will likely end up mounting it up in the very front corner behind the passenger headlight bucket on the frame.  That will give me the length I need to loop the cable down the inner fender and around to the throttle linkage.

I send an email to them asking about the strength of the stepper motor as my return spring is pretty stout and worried about the ability for it to pull it and not damage it.  When I receive a reply I'm going to ask them about changing the length of the cable.  Do I have to return it to them or do it myself?

The clutch switch I'm concerned about.  It does not appear to be "weather resistant" and with having to mount it under the cab(behind the drivers tire), I'm worried that even with just the rain I might drive in will it survive?  I'm going to look at purchasing a sealed switch just for longevity sake.  

With the unit mounted so far forward all the wiring is no where long enough on anything so I'll be soldering extensions.  It does come with weather pak style plugs on the unit itself.

They offer a shifter mounted control box but I didn't want to ask what that costs so I am making my own little box to mount on the compound lever for my two switches.  That will be more driver accessible friendly then mounted on the dash(which is too far to reach for my driving comfort).


The tale continues................

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

I had the switch and rheostat on the shift knob, and it was real easy to use... What the heck, your right hand is there anyways. After a while I got practiced enough that I could do clutchless upshifts, just quick switch the unit off then back on.

Got an email back,  yes I can cut the casing to fit.  Wanted their blessing just in case I happen to return for warranty and they complain because I cut it.

I have a drawing for a box for the shifter, just need some thinner material as I don't have anything lighter then 16 ga at home.  Some 20 ga would likely work much easier to bend into such a small box.  It's more decorative then structural.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

They offer a signal generator to put in line with your speedo cable.

Typically it screws onto transmission, then cable attaches to it.  It has two wires that you connect to cruise unit.

7fb8_12.JPG?set_id=7

Edited by Freightrain

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

Small steps.   Unit mounted on frame.  Making bracket for cable to mount to compessor.  Made a small box for switches to mount on compound shifter for "easy reach" while driving.  Few more wires to go.

IMG_20161127_162520_313.jpg

IMG_20161127_162558_255.jpg

IMG_20161127_162608_047.jpg

  • Like 1

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

By the end of the evening last night I had it "functioning".   I was able to get it to wind the cable up and return back by working the switches on the shifter.  My big concern was cable travel.  It only has 2" of travel.  The stuff they give you to mount to most late model pumps makes it seem it has way more then that.  I suppose the new pumps don't travel as far as mine does to get WOT.  I was expecting to have to make a long arm to use most of the cable travel(what they recommend), but after getting it to function I was able to measure and realize it will be tight to get WOT with only 2" of travel.  Measuring right at the pedal arm it is 2" for WOT.  I'll be having to fab up something so the cable attaches at the same spot.

I'm going to skip mounting the clutch pedal switch.  It looks to be a PITA to mount and adjust since it is under the floor, behind the fender and above my fuel tank.  Forget it.  I will just have to use the switch on the shifter to shut if off BEFORE pushing the clutch.  After seeing it in action, it is not a quick return to idle anyhow so if you did push the clutch it would not drop to idle quickly like a newer car does.  By the looks it would take 1-2 seconds to drop to idle.   After trying to get it to work I realized you have to ground that wire, you can't just leave it unhooked.  Once I grounded it to the frame, the system functioned.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

Ya, good point.  I was just listening to the servo motor and it ran for 1+ second.  Maybe with some tension it will snap back quicker?  Guess I'll find out.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

Well Im in Meixco this week for work so maybe this weekend I can get back at it.  I head home tomorrow.

Not many Macks down here.   Mostly Freightliners.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

Well Im in Meixco this week for work so maybe this weekend I can get back at it.  I head home tomorrow.

Not many Macks down here.   Mostly Freightliners.

Larry, did your job move to Mexico? Sorry to hear that.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...