Aftermarket hoods

[Wasteaway]

Looking at a 2001 RD688 to purchase. It would get a custom paint job that has become a company trade mark of sorts and upon inspection last week I discovered that the hood is not in the best condition. I am not opposed to a good used hood, but I'm not having an easy time locating one. Can someone tell me if the aftermarket hoods are a good option or should be avoided? The brand I see often is made by Jones. I am concerned about fit and how well they hold up. Anyone have experience with these?

[Maddog13407]

hit or miss. jones seems to be the better one. we put on on our T800 Kw at work and it fits better than the original KW one. we have also taken some brand new Freightliner and Volvo hoods out of the box and they fit horrible

[Wasteaway]

Interesting.....

 

The hood isn't trashed but it is certainly not near what I want for a finished product. I know glass is a very workable material...maybe a good repair shop would be better money spent. $1500 should go a long want to repairing what I have. The jellcoat process is what I am not familiar with.

[41chevy]

Having owned a few Vettes, a 1972 Fiberglas Trend Funnycar body, a Valkyrie and a Scarab boat, I've learned the repair of Gel Coat. First thing to know is that gel Coat is NOT the same as fiberglass resin. Gel Cot repair kits are available at most Auto body supply shops and most all Boat suppliers like West Marine. The kits from the marine shops are general paste while the body suppliers are semi liquid about the consistency of  Nitrostan that also can be thinned with styrene thinner and sprayed.

To prep for repair of Gel Coat, I use Prepsol. Cleaner the surface is the less chance of blisters, checking or lifting after this repairs.

For scratches and gouges, a conical or spherical rasp that fits into Dotco works well. Grind out the scratch in only the Gel Coat,making a V notch to increase bonding area. Be sure to sand away any loose chips. If damages cover a broader area, use a coarse 80 grit to grind out the area in a shallow bevel, thus increasing bonding area.  thoroughly clean the area with acetone to remove the sanding residue and any waxes or other contaminants that might interfere with the bond between the damaged surface and gelcoat.

 Start with a white or neutral gelcoat paste ( again it's not fiberglass resin) Next, using a putty knife for the paste, fill the areas to be repaired with the paste you've mixed. Force out any air holes and be sure to overfill, as gel coat has a tendency to shrink as it cures. When you're finished filling, seal the repair off from the air with a PVA curing agent or a piece of plastic wrap or wax paper. Gelcoat does not cure properly when exposed to air.  although Evercoat make an air dry Gelcoat repair filler now, but I've never used it, I stick with what I know works

Once the gelcoat has fully cured, sand the repair smooth (wet sanding works particularly well with gelcoat). You can start with 220-grit sandpaper and, for a really slick surface, finish with at least 400 grit, then do your normal prep for finishing.    Paul

[Wasteaway]

Wow. I feel like I could be a fiberglass body man now. Awesome advice. Thank you.

[41chevy]

20 hours ago, Wasteaway said:

Wow. I feel like I could be a fiberglass body man now. Awesome advice. Thank you.

This was my final exam in Gelcoat and Fiberglass work. 

 

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[Wasteaway]

Yee haw!

Actually I am going to employ you advice on a little project coming up soon.....canoe repair. I want to add a 3rd seat to my glass canoe. Sorry to disappoint but I will not be turning out a kit car or hot rod like you did.