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Some info please. I picked up the new tires after they were all mounted. Tried to put the rears on to test fit before painting. Well,the inner wheel will only go on less than half way and "boom". It stops dead and won't go on the hub farther. The outside of the spokes have no paint on them,  and I even tried to grease them.....no help.

Is there something I'm missing?  I assume they should fit snug on the hub but,  HOLY COW. I tried hitting the tire and rim with a rawhide mallet but still nothing. 

Also, is there a difference between the front and rear rims?  If there is then I have to take two back and have them switched.

Lastly, should the bead lock on the inner rear wheel should face out against the spacer that goes between the two wheels? 

The last two pictures are the front wheels. See the difference between the two outer edges?  One ring looks like it stands out in relation to the tire sidewall.

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Assuming those are the rims off the chassis originally I'd measure the out side diameter of the spiders verses the inside diameter of the rims. Possible they are specific to the steer and rear.  I've seen it before, rarely but I have seen it.     Paul

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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5 minutes ago, 41chevy said:

Assuming those are the rims off the chassis originally I'd measure the out side diameter of the spiders verses the inside diameter of the rims. Possible they are specific to the steer and rear.  I've seen it before, rarely but I have seen it.     Paul

I tr  tried every combination , reversing them , I even tried a definite front .....I know the rears came off the rear beccause I marked them.

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3 minutes ago, Willie dog said:

I tr  tried every combination , reversing them , I even tried a definite front .....I know the rears came off the rear beccause I marked them.

Like Bob said sand them clean and try them. The one photo seems to show it only on half way. Try Bobs suggestion. t isn't hard to "wedge" them a bit and have them bind.

Edited by 41chevy
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"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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I'm going to blast the wheels and try it again. I ground all the paint off of one hub where it contacts the rim. It still goes half way and no more. I'm a bit afraid to beat on the rim in fear of the lock ring flying out. 

They ccame off.....so they should go back on.

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I got about a same issue in the past.

The rims on my WW2 Mack are of the same design as yours with a difference they are 24's.

When I was buying the spare truck in Holland from my friend I wanted to combine the wheels to get a set of good ones. He had some of but we had to remove them from the other truck in his shed. Once I pointed out one of the good thread wheels he explained me that the wheel was a "strange one". It could fit as a front or an outside one but doesn't go on the hub to be used as an inner. He supposed it was off a B-model or anything else. Just a case there were two different styles of a 24 inch tube rim. It had a bit different design of the lock ring either. Finally I kept it because of the tyre and now I have to go to Holland one more time for a correct rim to assemble the spare for my truck. Fortunately it is not a hot need.

Those original ones I sandblasted and painted. And the hubs either. When installing I although needed no scrapping of paint off the hubs but got the rims on nearly free, with almost no paint scratching along the travel. Did it easy and smooth though, applying grease on the hubs. Actually we put a piece of thin plywood on the floor and stand a wheel on it against a hub. Than elevated the hub with a jack to level it. And than carefully slid the wheel with the plywood to get it right on the hub. Did it 3 men and got no more than 1 or 2 minor paint chips off. The rims went on almost free, moreover, with a minor gap. All blasted, primered and painted, as I already noted above. 

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Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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Not only do you need to get the wheels aligned "straight on" to get them to slide on you also need to make sure they are on straight as you tighten up the lug nuts. Once the tire is on the spokes lower the jack so the tire is about an inch off of the floor and then place a piece of wood against the outside of the tire. Slowly rotate the tire and watch the contact between the wood and the tire. If it is on straight it should stay the same, but it rarely does. You will need to jockey the tire around on the spider by tightening/loosening the lug nuts to get it straight.

Another trick is to put a piece of sheet metal down under the tire and then spray it with WD-40 or some other lube. Align the hub with the tire and it makes it easier to push the tire on if you do not have a wheel lift.

Edited by fxfymn
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Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

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Forgot one more thing seems a little easier if you put a spoon bar under tire and work it from the bottom first and spin slightly while your lifting and pushing after all this handy advice you should be ready for your own truck tire service truck ahahahahahahaha I used to work tire shop in the seventies took a little while to remember all the tricks I used to use but yes sometimes they are pretty hard to get on

Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk

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It just seems strange that the rears go on just so far and stop dead. They aren't even touching the outside of the spokes, it seems to be the slight lip and the inner most rear of the hub that is causing the issue. 

 The spokes on one hub have absolutely no paint on them, and the rim has very little paint and no rust that would seem to be stopping it.

The pictures of the rear shows how far they go and it's as if something is keeping them from going any further. 

Nothing has changed except new tires. :pat:  I'll get there eventually I think. 

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The guys have suggested every trick I know,and have used! I've had them slide right on, but have never had one bind as bad as you describe! Maybe get it on as straight as you can,til it stops, then turn it 90degrees and pry it easy with the spoon bar and repeat the process again a little at a time. Maybe measure the spoke edge to the wheel to see which location is farthest out and pry there! When you install the fronts put a straight edge next to the tire and torque the nuts in a crisscross pattern while turning the wheel, so it will be true when they are tight. Good luck!

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55 minutes ago, mowerman said:

That's kind of weird you've got me puzzled how was wondering why you didn't paint the rims first

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After seeing how split rims are mounted I was afraid they would get scratched to heck. I did vlean and paint the inside of the rim where the rim liner goes.

I have a good way to mask the tire from the rim for painting....I'll share the pics when I get to that point.

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