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Going to replace my cables on my B87.Was wondering if I can use 1/0 cables to go from the batteries to the sps,then use 2/0 cable to go to the starter to handle the 24 volts?I am also thinking about going to a straight 12 volt starter.What are the pros and cons?

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8 minutes ago, hicrop10 said:

Going to replace my cables on my B87.Was wondering if I can use 1/0 cables to go from the batteries to the sps,then use 2/0 cable to go to the starter to handle the 24 volts?I am also thinking about going to a straight 12 volt starter.What are the pros and cons?

That would work alright but I'd go with either 1/0, or 2/0 for everything. I wire everything with 2/0 and good heavy "Burndy", or "Blackburn" connectors with the terminations shrink wrapped w/adhesive type wrap. Absolutely waterproof this way and corrosion is precluded greatly in the crimped area.

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Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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31 minutes ago, hicrop10 said:

Thanks,thinking of going with the 1/0 case it will be easier to get them into the battery boxes.

That will work but they will get a bit warm if a long crank cycle in the colder months. Larger cables are better for this but probably a hobby truck only? If so winter will not be a large player and 1/0 will be fine. I use 2/0 for everything and can start on a single 12V battery till about 35 degrees then one battery just doesn't have enough in it to do the job. No problem with two down to about 15 degree without being warmed up via coolant heater.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Both my B mixer and my R came originally with 2/0 cables. Starter systems the heavier the better IMO , minimal voltage drop over the long run..   Paul

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"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

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Some guys I know use welding cable because its more flexible compared to battery cable.  They also say it holds up to vibration better.     Also know people that say don't use battery cable because it won't hold up to the vibrations.   

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Really no difference between "battery" cable used in automotive applications from "welding" cable internally except strand count of which welding cable contains finer "strands" within the jacket. This is primarily where the inherent flexibility comes from along with the jacket composition. Most secondary voltage cable like typical battery cable are pvc plastic jacketed where welding cable is always rubber jacketed. It is the same jacket as "SOOW" electrical cable which is tough, yet remains very pliable in colder temperatures. I cannot agree at all on someone stating that automotive type battery cable won't hold up to vibration if it is routed correctly.

Whatever cable is used in the application it needs routed correctly including rubber insulated standoff clamps, and an extra insulator where protrusions through a frame hole, battery box, (as example) or over a sharp edge of a frame rail are encountered. Typically I'll run a short section of automotive "heater hose" clamped to the outside of a cable where it has chance of rubbing on anything for extra precaution either band clamped, or shrink tube anchored so it doesn't move. Battery box enclosure entrances are always grommet lined so no sharp edges.

A primary starting cable shorting someplace is almost always an instant fire so best to not be anything less than as safe as you can make it at the front.

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A primary starting cable shorting someplace is almost always an instant fire so best to not be anything less than as safe as you can make it at the front.

Burned up an R model rescue (and the fire house it was in) from this. That is why I always urge the use of a battery cut off switch at the battery for hobby trucks.

If you are not in a great hurry keep your eye on eBay for welding wire. I have made a couple of good scores there over the years.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

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2 hours ago, fxfymn said:

Burned up an R model rescue (and the fire house it was in) from this. That is why I always urge the use of a battery cut off switch at the battery for hobby trucks.

If you are not in a great hurry keep your eye on eBay for welding wire. I have made a couple of good scores there over the years.

These are a good idea but costly for switches that will withstand the inrush current of starting a diesel engine at 12VDC. Cole-Hersee makes good ones and they will be over a hundred for the heavy duty style up to the task long term. 

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Cole-Hersee makes good ones and they will be over a hundred for the heavy duty style up to the task long term. 

I agree, but $100.00 to protect what should be a very special, if not irreplaceable, truck seems pretty cheap to me.

Kind of off the subject, but I'll never understand how someone can spend six figures to restore a truck, or even $20K for a hobby truck, and then cheap out on protecting it from a fire by not installing a detection system in their storage area and doing whatever they can to prevent a fire in their prized possession. 

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Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

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9 hours ago, fxfymn said:

I agree, but $100.00 to protect what should be a very special, if not irreplaceable, truck seems pretty cheap to me.

Kind of off the subject, but I'll never understand how someone can spend six figures to restore a truck, or even $20K for a hobby truck, and then cheap out on protecting it from a fire by not installing a detection system in their storage area and doing whatever they can to prevent a fire in their prized possession. 

No disagreement here at all but it's like a lot of farmers whom purchase a $200K combine to make a living with, and then don't maintain it? Never understood that analogy either but some can't see the forest because of the trees. 

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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The finer strands of the welding cable not only make it more flexible, but also enables it to carry higher current for the same size as compared to battery cable.  So generally you can run 1 size smaller for the same amperage.

Do not for get, a 12 volt starter will draw twice the amps of a 24 volt starter, so 12 volt heavier cables!

 

         Paul

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