1988RD 2070 transmission clutch brake and clutch adjustment

[Casper1988]

Is there a way to change out the clutch brake without taking the tranny out. Took the cover off today at the bottom of the bell and was looking at what I believe to be a nasty clutch brake and the throw out bearing holder. My truck is not wanting to get into gear all that great from neutral. Figured I would replace the brake and adjust the clutch which I have know  clue how to do. Need some advice. I will be changing out this tranny at some point but not soon. Thanks

[terry]

They do make a replacement you can put in without removing the trans, the old one has to be cut out with a impact muffler chisel or torch.    terry

Edited July 7, 2017 by terry

[Casper1988]

With lots of grease and oil I will pass on the torch option. Not sure how you would keep it still to use the impact tool. How about a cheap long 1/2" extension with a groove ground into it to twist the old brake in two. I did see the two piece brake from Haldex. Looks like a fun job!!

[Casper1988]

Looks like the torch will be the quickest, saw some posts on you tube last night. I have a small tip for the cutting torch and will have a hose on hand and some damp rags placed in there strategically. Kinda like welding in the belly pan of the skidder, a go for it moment.

[terry]

7 minutes ago, Casper1988 said:

Looks like the torch will be the quickest, saw some posts on you tube last night. I have a small tip for the cutting torch and will have a hose on hand and some damp rags placed in there strategically. Kinda like welding in the belly pan of the skidder, a go for it moment.

keep us posted how it goes.    terry

[57 bcr]

The Babcock (inventor,original)  2 piece clutch brake is not too bad of a job to install. Did a few of them myself. Messy yes,but beats pulling a trans by a longshot!  Al  

[Casper1988]

finally got a chance to look and would say that my smallest 3" right angle cut off is out and torches ain't for me so I am driving over to a friends shop to take it out with an air chisel an some sharp auto body tools. It sure is a miserable spot to get into.Hopefully it will all be over by noon.

[theakerstwo]

I see you have passed on the torch deal.But for any one who uses a torch on a mack trans listen up.i have did it but first wash the grease out of the opening.adjust the throw out brg forward as much as you can and then go to the lowes store and buy a wood stove door seal which looks like a rope and wrap around the input shaft and push it against the trans.On a mack trans there is a grease seal on the front of the input shaft and a torch will burn it then you will pull the trans.

[MACKS]

I would try one of those tiny two bottle torches lowes sells.the flame gets plenty hot enough to cut/melt through thin metal and blow flame back in your face,good luck.

[Casper1988]

Got it out with air chisel, it was no fun but the job is done. The hardened steel collar riding on the input shaft had a hard rockwell point as it dulled tools quickly. I would do another the same way, just to much oiley residue for my liking for torches. The two piece went in slick and really made a world of difference from N getting it in gear. Thanks all.

[Casper1988]

Oh ya, what is correct pedal play and measurement from brake clutch to the throw out face. Is it 1/2". Mine has 1 1/2" pedal and just under 1/2" at brake and throw out . I do see how to adjust the clutch. Mine has the bolt you press in and turn either way to get the correct measurement.

[theakerstwo]

First adjust the brake and that is by the linkage on the out side lever.

[Casper1988]

Well, I will try to be descriptive. I must be doing something wrong . Can't seem to get that 1/2 to 5/8 " brake clutch clearance. I undo the 3/4 " wrench lock nut and turn the square head bolt clockwise and nothing happens ( it is bottomed out, locknut back as far as I can get it. ). It stays at 3/8" space. could the first sleeve on the cross shaft be maxed in the half moon which it is preventing any movement, do I need to pull that and move it a few notches on the cross shaft so when turning the square head bolt I get some movement and that will give me my 1/2" spacing. That half moon piece has a 9/16 head on it that locks the two halves together on the cross shaft. I am a little dyslexic so its kinda confusing down under there. I have the free play on the pedal at 1 1/2" to 2", that was easily done by turning the adjusting bolt clockwise on the psi plate. Need some help here, need to deliver wood but don't want to tear up my new clutch brake. I can only push the pedal to about three inches from the floor, Thats no good, like to have that be one inch and if the space was 1/2" that would be maybe right. Thanks all, 

[theakerstwo]

The adjusting bolt with the square head needs back off to let the pedal down.You need about 1/2 to 1" of brake.Some times you do have to remove the lever and index it in another spline.But if you get the brake set to 1/2" then set the pressure plate to were you have 1/2" clearance between the clutch brake disc and the trans brg retainer.If the linkage has not been messed with you should end up with a 1 1/2 free play at the top.

[Casper1988]

Ok, you have me confused. I thought the linkage adjuster was for the clutch brake and the psi plate was to get the correct free play on the pedal.

[theakerstwo]

Start all over and let some one else tell you how because i just read a book on adjusting clutches and cant explain it very well.But remember to set your brake first with the lever adjustment.

[Casper1988]

Glenn, I spent some time this a.m. and realized the arm was frozen up, pb blaster and a hammer. Got around 9/16 's at the clutch brake and 1 1/2 or a little better clutch pedal play . The test drive was good and going into first or reverse form N was very smooth. Had to let the pedal off the floor just a smidgen a couple of times then it slipped right in with no grinding. I will have this all apart at sometime when I switch to the thirteen speed and put in a new clutch, etc. Thanks. 

Edited July 12, 2017 by Casper1988
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