hatcity Posted August 3, 2017 Share Posted August 3, 2017 have to drop the oil pan due to gasket leaking. Figure while there, why not change the bearings since it open. Question #1-what "should" the set cost? Question #2-torque specs for each? Son is a DD mechanic and can get a 3/4 torque wrench and help Oh yeah...what is the paint code for a 2001 E-tech? Thank you in advance, Ed Quote Success is only a stones throw away.................................................................for a Palestinian Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/50666-rods-and-mains/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy_Brault Posted August 5, 2017 Share Posted August 5, 2017 About $500 for rods and mains. 210ft lbs on mains buttress bolts are 95ft lbs rods are 30ft Lbs plus 90 degrees. Oil pump bolts are 40ft lbs 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/50666-rods-and-mains/#findComment-376727 Share on other sites More sharing options...
turckster Posted August 7, 2017 Share Posted August 7, 2017 A few pointers for you- the main bearing in #2,3,5&6 are the same top and bottom. Main #1 shares the same bottom bearing as others but the top bearing is different. The tang is located in a different spot and it will go into other locations. You will loose all crank thrust if that happens. #4&7 mains are similar as well so be careful there too. #5 buttress bolt next to the air compressor can be a pain to get at. If you have a Bendix air compressor you can remove the compressors lower cover and get at the buttress bolt easily. If you're replacing the oil pump make sure the drive great is the same. I've seen customers install incorrect pump assuming it was correct and shred the aux shaft drive gear. Good luck 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/50666-rods-and-mains/#findComment-376835 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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