B Model Air Governor

[fuzzy buzzard]

After 1 1/2 years, the old "Large SUV" came to life with a new engine, trans and power steering. All new gauges including boost and pyro. Well don't you know, the new air gauge shows psi is running 90 - 110. Guess the old gauge was so hard to read, I just assumed air pressure was ok. Now my question - can the old style air governors (not D2) be adjusted? This governor has served well for almost 20 years plus all the time before I got it. Hate to change to Mexican D2 governor if I can keep from it    

[j hancock]

Looks pretty tidy under the hood.

I have only messed with D2 but older stuff is almost always serviceable and adjustable.

[Brocky]

Does the governor plunger shaft have a screwdriver slot and a lock nut on it, under the rubber cover??? If so play with it... also if you decide to take it apart and clean the inside bore, be sure to take to inlet air line off first, before you pop the snap ring out.. Ask me how I know!!!!! I have done several roadside "rebuilds" 

Edited September 12, 2017 by Brocky

[fuzzy buzzard]

Governor is located above heater hoses in picture. There is no rubber cap - all brass plugs. Got several old B's, can pull one off to check - just ain't got to it yet. Took test run other day, runs like a rocket BUT --------- turbo blowing oil into intake, 4 exhaust gaskets blew out, still can't get jakes working and power steering box is leaking at pitman arm shaft. So my point is - we'll get to governor in due time.   

[fuzzy buzzard]

Well, I got the answer to my own question. On the end of the governor closest to right fender, there are 2 small hex plugs and 1 big hex plug. First, drain air system. The small plugs have filters behind them - one closest to radiator filters system air pressure. One closest to firewall filters signal pressure to compressor unloader . Now the big hex plug covers a 1/4" nut that adjusts system pressure. Turn nut clockwise to increase cut-in and cut-out pressure. So, another old fragment of ancient history doing its job correctly again.

Speaking of old junk - I got most of bugs worked out of engine/transmission change in the old Mack and WHAT A BUNCH OF FUN TO DRIVE!! More horsepower IS good. I had put 38,000 miles on that unpowered hunk of junk in 15 years. It was getting to the point that I didn't want to drive it anymore. But with power steering and a bunch of horsepower, it might become my daily driver! Think might look into air conditioning for the ole beast.   

[Superdog]

On 10/14/2017 at 7:47 PM, fuzzy buzzard said:

Well, I got the answer to my own question. On the end of the governor closest to right fender, there are 2 small hex plugs and 1 big hex plug. First, drain air system. The small plugs have filters behind them - one closest to radiator filters system air pressure. One closest to firewall filters signal pressure to compressor unloader . Now the big hex plug covers a 1/4" nut that adjusts system pressure. Turn nut clockwise to increase cut-in and cut-out pressure. So, another old fragment of ancient history doing its job correctly again.

Speaking of old junk - I got most of bugs worked out of engine/transmission change in the old Mack and WHAT A BUNCH OF FUN TO DRIVE!! More horsepower IS good. I had put 38,000 miles on that unpowered hunk of junk in 15 years. It was getting to the point that I didn't want to drive it anymore. But with power steering and a bunch of horsepower, it might become my daily driver! Think might look into air conditioning for the ole beast.   

Power steering??AC?? are you getting soft in your old age,Tom??

[Freightrain]

I can help with the A/C.  My system works great and once you get the bracketry made to mount the pump it all just screws together.

[fuzzy buzzard]

Mike,

You damn right I'm getting soft! I ain't got as much time left as I had 20 years ago. I got to go fast, cool and easy. And, I might just add another step on left fuel tank - that's getting to be a big step for a little old guy.

Larry,

Your evaporator is located under the dash - correct? Think I would like a backwall unit. Would keep clutter down under dash.

You guys keep cool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

[HugeHugh]

My governor has an air leak at the top screw closest to the radiator.  Do you know where I can get a rebuild kit that includes the gasket between the body halves?  Aluminum tag shows 228658-27.  Is Bendix the manufacturer?  I've searched the Bendix site including the cross reference library but no luck yet.

 

[Freightrain]

Likely much cheaper/easier to just buy a new governor.    Does it look like this one?  Mine started failing and a new one was cheap.  I know there are a few variations, but might look at using this one?

Edited April 5, 2018 by Freightrain

[HugeHugh]

That's awesome!  Thanks for the info.  I installed a new D-2 yesterday evening exactly like your photo.

I bought one yesterday at the local Napa store who stocks them for $15.  It has 3 ports to choose from for the tank connection and 3 ports to choose from for the unloader connection.  And the bolt holes match perfectly.   I'm finally up to 115 psi.  I started at 30 psi but I've replaced many lines and getting steady improvement.  

This evening I will cage and disassemble the left rear spring brake to fix a leak there.

 

Thanks again Freightrain.

[Freightrain]

Yup, $15 is what I paid a few years back.   Glad to hear you are making headway.

What chambers does your truck have?  30/30?  New ones are cheap and easy........ and no worries of that spring inside!!

[HugeHugh]

I did some research and talked with a diesel mechanic friend and the consensus is to not work on spring brakes even when they have a clamp.  It's just not worth it.  I'm told there are things, such as broken springs and spring fragments, that can cause injury even when a spring is caged.  I will remove the entire canister and replace the entire canister.   I found broken mounting bolts in the axle housing that need to be replaced as well.  This must be the type of damage that anti-compounding valves were developed to mitigate. 

 

I finally drove the truck back and forth for a few hundred feet on Friday now that the brakes work.  The primary gear set shifts from reverse, first and second smoothly.  The power steering works too, which I wasn't expecting. 

The compound gear set shifter isn't moving a bit even when rolling.  I will search the transmission section of BMT for threads related to diagnosing a frozen/stuck compound shifter.

 

Edited April 13, 2018 by HugeHugh
Add a photo of the new D-2 air governor

[h67st]

7 hours ago, HugeHugh said:

I did some research and talked with a diesel mechanic friend and the consensus is to not work on spring brakes even when they have a clamp.  It's just not worth it.  I'm told there are things, such as broken springs and spring fragments, that can cause injury even when a spring is caged.  I will remove the entire canister and replace the entire canister.   I found broken mounting bolts in the axle housing that need to be replaced as well.  This must be the type of damage that anti-compounding valves were developed to mitigate.

 

Yeah, you have to know what you're doing with maxi-brakes....not worth a big hospital bill.

[Rob]

9 minutes ago, h67st said:

Yeah, you have to know what you're doing with maxi-brakes....not worth a big hospital bill.

That right there is key; "knowing what you're are doing". They don't teach that any longer. Spring brakes when rebuildable, (I've done dozens) are not hard, nor unsafe to work with. One does NEED the proper tools and setup to work with them for certain but they are not the "mankiller" they are talked of in folklore of being. Just like split rims on trucks and equipment. The dangers are slight if the right tools and procedures are used, and followed. There are dangers everyplace in life and the lawmakers have yet to legislate "stupid" out of the human psyche.

The front service side of spring brake chambers are still very serviceable yet I see a lot of them shitcanned because a genuine Made in China replacement is available for just a few bucks more. A diaphragm for a service side may be $10.00, (I get good discounts) for a type 30 and it may take 1/2 hour to install total but near every time I see one of these blown, the complete chamber gets replaced when there is nothing wrong with the spring brake side. I've even seen type 16, and type 20 service chambers only being replaced wholesale using the same scenario.

Guess it still goes to show I'm more of a mechanic than professional "box swapper" many of this new breed are. Of course they're not really called "mechanics" any longer,  but rather "technicians".

I'll let you figure that one out.

In my humble opinion of course.

[Hobert62]

That's how I'm getting the maxis for my dropdeck.  Trailer at work blows a diaphragm and the whole can goes for scrap.   I've been saving the nice ones to piggyback onto the service side of mine it originally just  had air/air

[Rob]

Many of the older 30/30 series will outlast new ones if only the service diaphragm is replaced. I used to purchase 30/30 "Haldex" cans 1/2 dozen at a time and then wipe them down with lacquer thinner, apply epoxy primer and paint them either gold, or black with Rust-Oleum paint. Same thing with aluminum valves that were exposed. They would last for many years this way and not rust/corrode out. These new generation, "World American", "Ying-Yang", "Ching, Chang, and Yong" etc.?  I've seen some of those not last two years on a trailer that operates in the rust belt before they're needing replaced again. 

[HugeHugh]

I did take and pass the Bendix Brake School class for air brakes, but that is a far cry from having the knowledge to safely work on spring brakes.  I kept the old chambers for a rainy day after I do get more training.  

 

[HugeHugh]

Now that the new rear air chambers are installed the last of the known air leaks is gone and I get 120 psi.  After driving the truck a bit, I found another air leak in one of the old cobbled together lines.  It is time to replace all the old air lines and quit patching.  

[Rob]

I usually do a complete replacement myself as I hate doing something more than once. Sometimes with plastic and brass, sometimes the copper lines. Usually whatever will last the best for the application.

[carlotpilot]

On 4/8/2018 at 10:10 PM, Rob said:

That right there is key; "knowing what you're are doing". They don't teach that any longer. Spring brakes when rebuildable, (I've done dozens) are not hard, nor unsafe to work with. One does NEED the proper tools and setup to work with them for certain but they are not the "mankiller" they are talked of in folklore of being. Just like split rims on trucks and equipment. The dangers are slight if the right tools and procedures are used, and followed. There are dangers everyplace in life and the lawmakers have yet to legislate "stupid" out of the human psyche.

The front service side of spring brake chambers are still very serviceable yet I see a lot of them shitcanned because a genuine Made in China replacement is available for just a few bucks more. A diaphragm for a service side may be $10.00, (I get good discounts) for a type 30 and it may take 1/2 hour to install total but near every time I see one of these blown, the complete chamber gets replaced when there is nothing wrong with the spring brake side. I've even seen type 16, and type 20 service chambers only being replaced wholesale using the same scenario.

Guess it still goes to show I'm more of a mechanic than professional "box swapper" many of this new breed are. Of course they're not really called "mechanics" any longer,  but rather "technicians".

I'll let you figure that one out.

In my humble opinion of course.

[Freightrain]

Being in the plastic and rubber industry forever I see stuff come in the door with these "things" in the box.  Took a few years to realize what they were.   We get stuff still stuck together or at least covered in material.  Many times we see samples of short shots or the such...like these chamber diaphrams.

[fuzzy buzzard]

HugeHugh,

Now that you are getting air leaks all stopped up and system pressure is coming up where it should be - just sit around and wait for the wiper valve to start leaking (don't mean to rain on your parade). Mine pulled that trick and with wiper motor mounted on inside of firewall, it is a challenge to get out. With trifocals and stiff neck and gear sticks in way, I had to stop several times to invent new language suitable for the task at hand. But after the second disassembly, I got all the leak stopped so there is hope. Although I still have one nerve still pinched in my neck, it was worth it.

[Freightrain]

Lol.....so true that it isn't funny.  I think the designers were midget acrobats.