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You can ohm it to a know-good EUP. You can continuity the lines back to the ECM (or firewall) if your up to a light amount of digging.

I'd get a PAI (especially if you have no miss, still running, and can order "aftermarket") to replace only the bad unit. Pretty easy day on a truck like yours! 

Pull the block fitting and drain the block before you pull it, or dump into sump and just change oil. 

Roll engine to get the EUP cam lobe down to make install easier, pull bolts up equally when loading back into block.

Always replace both retaining screws.

Record EUP calibration code (on front plate) so you can have code uploaded next time your in the shop.

Gently remove EUP roller and inspect. Scissor spread your fingers (or insert a hook pick into roller slot) and gently lower back onto cam lobe without dropping.

Check guide indexing pin in wall of EUP bore.

Edited by Mack Technician
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29 minutes ago, Mack Technician said:

I'd get a PAI (especially if you have no miss, still running, and can order "aftermarket") to replace only the bad unit. Pretty easy day on a truck like yours! 

 

i didnt even know it was a problem until the light came on. truck still runs fine.

do you have a link or part number for the PAI unit? 

new resized.jpg

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44 minutes ago, 2000CL713 said:

i didnt even know it was a problem until the light came on. truck still runs fine.

do you have a link or part number for the PAI unit? 

https://www.paiindustries.com/catalog/figurelistPartSearch.php . You enter your Mack number and it will convert it.

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According to my dist an owner/holder of PAI has legal right to the patents and intellectual property of Mack. On certain stuff they buy Mack and re-label. I note about 20-30% lower price as an average. Some dash switches are 50+% less than Mack counter price.  

No complaints for quality. In fact I know a certain *Cough-* dealership -*ahem* who buys PAI cam replacement kits because Mack no longer does certain kits.

Edited by Mack Technician
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 www.skarlupkaservice.com

PAI distributors are notorious for thin (or no) stock of parts. PAI is usually a pet project for a bigger sales agenda. Generally they take the order and drop ship direct to you and up-charge any returns for restock.  

I thought PAI was rinky-dink enough and tried to become a distributor so I could buy parts direct for my moonlighting projects. Shot down!:) 

ExpL- Called and confirmed your part, as popular as it is, is not in stock at this dealer.

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5 hours ago, 2000CL713 said:

thanks for the info guys. 

i also signed up for the PAI site to search the numbers. i have bought that brand before and it seemed like nice stuff. never engine parts tho. 

 

When your in the parts x-over click on the little icon of the book (manual) that appears during part search. They have some really nice breakdowns that are easy to interpret, even for disassembly layering.  

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2 hours ago, 2000CL713 said:

Im going to be taking each eup out and inspecting them.

Does anyone have the part numbers for new o-ring kit and new bolts and retaining screws and whatever else I should replace since I'm doing it. 

Thanks 

Use your PAI log-in. It will do the "manual" break down and should give you OE numbers as well as PAI conversion. It's handy for owner operators who DIY.

 

PS- if the little connector screws for wire do not feel like they want to be removed........ better stop and consider if you want to snap it off just to do inspection. They generally do not do well with age.

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I'll give that a shot.

Well didn't think of that. I know mine have never been touched so that very well might be a problem. I wanted to inspect them. Man let me tell ya. Those eup have become more of a headache then anything on this truck lol no matter which way I go there is always something lol but luckily the light have never cam back on since then but I would really like to get my eyes on them to see the condition of the insides and put new orings and whatnot. 

new resized.jpg

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