Arlen Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 I will be painting my B61 this winter. It's Mack dark green. Will keep it that color. Question.....do I clear coat it after painting or is that going to far with B61? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlotpilot Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 I would recommend a good single stage paint and forget about the clear coat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41chevy Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 I agree any quality Single Stage paint will be fine. Clear coat is best for Metallics and Factory Pearlessent colors but not really for solid colors Quote "OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK" Thomas Edison “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’” P.T.CHESHIRE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mcrafty1 Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 In my opinion, if you like low maintenance paint...clear coat it. If washing and polishing is your thing don't bother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post eddeere Posted October 30, 2017 Popular Post Share Posted October 30, 2017 If you are a good painter a single stage urethane is very good . There are some advantages to a quality base coat , clear coat sometimes more work . The DOI is usually better. I used DuPont ChromaBase and Cromax clear. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arlen Posted October 30, 2017 Author Share Posted October 30, 2017 Thanks guys.....good info. If I do not clear coat....do I still apply a paint coat, sand with 2000 grit,repaint,repeat? New at this but want to do it myself for the experience...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddeere Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 If you go with the single stage you can mix the last coat with clear per the directions from the paint mfg. On true base coat clear coat the only sanding is on the clear. After a week of drying I dry sand with 1500 then wet sand with 2000 then 4000. Wait a few days then buff the paint out. I do not sand the single stage paints. If you want a first class job look at what Willie Dog did on his B 42 P tanker. He used Nason base/clear and buffed the paint out. You might contact him and see if he will share any of his secrets. This was one of the best jobs I have seen in a while. Also we like to see pictures of your truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arlen Posted November 1, 2017 Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 Thanks guys. Sounds good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arlen Posted November 1, 2017 Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 I'm trying to get a picture here of my truck (s) but must be too big. Will keep trying. I found a treasure about 2 months ago. Been looking for a solid B61 for a couple years. Stumbled onto some trucks at a cement plant that sat since DOT rules evolved in '88 in Minn. The trucks sat for 30 years. We literally cut them out of trees, winched them onto lowboy and hauled home. Five trucks. 3 with complete mixers,one gravel truck and one boom truck used for hauling blocks. Within 4 days had all of them running. One mixer and the gravel truck (1960's) detail numbers are in series. Will work on pic or PM me ( not sure if possible)and will send that way, Its been fun...... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Arlen Posted November 1, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 1, 2017 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arlen Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 Just a follow up to previous posts. Getting to point of buying the exterior green for my b61. Am considering PHO acrylic enamel with gardener. Number is 40496PP. Does that make sense? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arlen Posted February 9, 2018 Author Share Posted February 9, 2018 Hardener....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maddog13407 Posted February 10, 2018 Share Posted February 10, 2018 40496 is the PPG Ditzler code for Mack green. think its pretty standard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plowboy Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 I use PPG acrylic urethane for metallic and solid color basecoats, and clearcoat everything. You can wetsand and buff the clear for an outstanding finish, and buff again later for minor surface scratches that appear. It's also much easier to repair your basecoat if you have a clearcoat to blend to. I use this method for farm tractors, cars, and trucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKS Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Just curious,what's wrong with the paint Mack sells with the harder,had a truck painted with it once and the painter added a different hardner,it was a super wet look hardner,that truck had a killer shine on it for many years with very little maintness.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maddog13407 Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 Mack always used Kirker cheicals for their paint. good for most but for a pro restoration they are cheap and i don't think have the lasting qualities for shine and color fading that PPG or Dupont do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlotpilot Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 On 10/29/2017 at 10:02 PM, carlotpilot said: I would recommend a good single stage paint and forget about the clear coat truck shop could you imigineer a drawing of this hood with dual headlights ? w900 style Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ezrider Posted March 14, 2020 Share Posted March 14, 2020 i much prefer base clears. i feel they hold up better and give a better appearance. as far as having to sand it, you don't have to sand in between your base and your clear unless your outside of the re-coat window, you don't need to sand it afterwards unless you want to. i can shoot pretty darn flat most the time i leave it as it lays unless its something where i really want that perfect Finnish. ill just spot any flaws or dust nibs and and then buff. clears are also easier to fix if you have issues or damage in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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