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I  agree any quality Single Stage paint will be fine. Clear coat is best for Metallics and Factory Pearlessent colors but not really for solid colors

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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If you go with the single stage you can mix the last coat with clear per the directions from the paint mfg. On true base coat clear coat the only sanding is on the clear. After a week of drying I dry sand with 1500 then wet sand with 2000 then 4000. Wait a few days then buff the paint out. I do not sand the single stage paints. If you want a first class  job look at what Willie Dog did on his B 42 P tanker. He used Nason base/clear and buffed the paint out. You might contact him and see if he will share any of his secrets. This was one of the best jobs I have seen in a while. Also we like to see pictures of your truck. 

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I'm trying to get a picture here of my truck (s) but must be too big. Will keep trying.  I found a treasure about 2 months ago. Been looking for a solid B61 for a couple years. Stumbled onto some trucks at a cement plant that sat since DOT rules evolved in '88 in Minn.  The trucks sat for 30 years. We literally cut them out of trees, winched them onto lowboy and hauled home. Five trucks. 3 with complete mixers,one gravel truck and one boom truck used for hauling blocks. Within 4 days had all of them running. One mixer and the gravel truck (1960's) detail numbers are in series. Will work on pic or PM me ( not sure if possible)and will send that way, Its been fun......

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  • 3 months later...

I use PPG acrylic urethane for metallic and solid color basecoats, and clearcoat everything. You can wetsand and buff the clear for an outstanding finish, and buff again later for minor surface scratches that appear. It's also much easier to repair your basecoat if you have a clearcoat to blend to. I use this method for farm tractors, cars, and trucks.

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Just curious,what's wrong with the paint Mack sells with the harder,had a truck painted with it once and the painter added a different hardner,it was a super wet look hardner,that truck had a killer shine on it for many years with very little maintness..

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  • 2 years later...

i much prefer base clears. i feel they hold up better and give a better appearance. 

 

as far as having to sand it, you don't have to sand in between your base and your clear unless your outside of the re-coat window, you don't need to sand it afterwards unless you want to. i can shoot pretty darn flat most the time i leave it as it lays unless its something where i really want that perfect Finnish. ill just spot any flaws or dust nibs and and then buff. clears are also easier to fix if you have issues or damage in the future. 

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