Mack AC

[Jack Innes]

32 minutes ago, steelman said:

I would be interested in information on the starter and ring gear for AC's.  Doesn't the aluminum lower part of the engine have the hole where the starter bolts.  Do you have to cut that in, or are all AC engines already preped for a Starter?  I don't remember seeing this on all of the AC engines I have.

My engine has a flat boss on the driver's side with 4 tapped holes to mount the starter & the shroud around the flywheel has a lump that would allow the starter to fit by the ring gear but the hole for the starter has not been cut out.  I cannot see the flywheel but am not very hopeful that there is a ring gear.

 

Jack

[Jack Innes]

Another question;   My exhaust pipe is 4" diameter ,  what would be  the outlet size of the muffler?  Would it be OK to use a modern 4" in, 4" out truck muffler?

 

Jack

[ekennedy21]

It would certainly work ok. It depends on how detailed you get on your restoration if you want to bother getting a reproduction of the original one or not.

[Jack Innes]

8 hours ago, ekennedy21 said:

It would certainly work ok. It depends on how detailed you get on your restoration if you want to bother getting a reproduction of the original one or not.

Thank you.  Original style would be good but  I am having difficulty finding any contacts for reproduction AC parts.  Is there something I am missing?

 

Jack

[j_martell]

It’s been either nice or miserable in Ontario the last few weeks.  Next week looks about the same

 

.....just pick a season and stick with it, Mother Nature!!

 

Awesome truck Mr. Innes!  I love chain drives

 

Good luck and keep us updated

[ekennedy21]

15 hours ago, Jack Innes said:

Thank you.  Original style would be good but  I am having difficulty finding any contacts for reproduction AC parts.  Is there something I am missing?

 

Jack

I would suggest to reach out to Gary Mahan. He should be able to help you with everything you may need from parts to reproduction plaques. Try his posted email account of info@themahancollection.org first, and if that doesn't work, I will hook you up with his personal contact info. I just don't want to post it publicly.

[Jack Innes]

I have been assessing the engine now that it turns over & have determined that #4 exhaust valve is burned, the other 3 cylinders have compression.   It looks like the clearance was set too close, probably causing the valve trouble.  The seat has been replaced & looks retrievable.

The pictures show the tool I made to remove the valve plugs & the gear reducer I often use to run in rebuilt or long sitting engines.   Sometimes problems show up at 30 rpm that would be destructive if the engine was started.

Does anyone have a current no. or replacement valves for the AC?   The exhaust valve has a .490" dia. stem, 2.25" dia. head & is 10.4" overall length.  

I have not removed an intake valve - are they the same size?

[Jack Innes]

I just finished pulling an intake valve out & found that it is essentially the same size as the exhaust valve.  It is in useable condition so I will likely just need the exhaust valves.

I found Toledo part numbers on both valves;  in.  T307,  ex. S290  (the 9 could be a 0).  So far I have not found any listings for Toledo valves.

 

Jack

[steelman]

I have factory drawings of both valves if you need a copy, just let me know.   A company that can make the valves is :  H & J Machining, Henry Simons, Carrington, ND, 701.652.3289,  www.HandJMachining.com  For gaskets, I got a brand new set made by Olson's gaskets in Washington state.  I have factory drawings for many of the AC parts (sheet metal, some engine parts).  We are in the steel fabrication business, so I wanted to make my own replacement parts as I have seven AC's and parts for a few more. 

[Jack Innes]

Thank you for your kind offer on prints.    I would certainly like a copy of the valve prints & any of fenders.  The earlier style fenders seem to be on a lot of ACs & they would be simpler to make.  Prints on the boxes on the running boards would be helpful as well.      I do not know how the message system works on this site but if I can figure it out we can make arrangements for payment & addresses, etc.

I had contacted H&J Machining earlier today & they have returned my question already - a very good sign.  They have blanks that can be made fit the truck.

Jack

 

 

[fxfymn]

I used H&J to have valves made for my AB and I was very pleased with his work.

[yarnall]

I spoke with Art Cooper about putting starters on old Macks.  He uses a Mack ring gear, Delco MT40 starter and cuts the bell housing.  He was selling parts to do this, but sold everything to Gary Mahan.  You might be able to get the parts from Gary.  Art would be happy to speak to you about this.  I can message you his number if you want it.  Mike

[paulbrook]

On ‎20‎/‎11‎/‎2017 at 12:22 AM, yarnall said:

My AC is a fire truck so it already has a starter.  Art Cooper, the guy who does the restorations for John Haines, has ring gears made and out on then he uses GM starters.  He has done it with several AB and ACs.  I could get you more information if you are interested.    Neat truck.  Keep the pictures coming.  Mike. 

I would be very interested in that conversion too!

[Jack Innes]

3 hours ago, yarnall said:

I spoke with Art Cooper about putting starters on old Macks.  He uses a Mack ring gear, Delco MT40 starter and cuts the bell housing.  He was selling parts to do this, but sold everything to Gary Mahan.  You might be able to get the parts from Gary.  Art would be happy to speak to you about this.  I can message you his number if you want it.  Mike

Mike,  I would be interested in speaking with Art Cooper on the starter conversion.   I may have an MT40 starter in stock.

 

Jack

[Jack Innes]

I have been working on the 27 AC most of the summer & now the engine is free, new valves installed & running well.  The clutch is freed up & adjusted.  It now has a 12 volt starter that came from a Cat Diesel & a John Deere ring gear - that also works well. The cab has all new panels & is permanently assembled & mounted firmly as original.     The rad is reconditioned & mounted- no leaks (so far).

Today was encouraging in that the truck moved under its own power for the first time in at least 50 years!

Today was also the first run with the new exhaust system -   I now know I need manifold gaskets -  any idea where to find them?

I have an embarrassing question-  Where is reverse???   I have 4 speeds forward but cannot find reverse.

I still need fenders, name plates & a rad cap plus many small parts.

 

Thank you for any suggestions,

Jack

 

Edited September 14, 2018 by Jack Innes

[yarnall]

On my 1925, I have to push down then it is left and back I think.  Push down and try all directions.  My AB is different than my AC.  I’d try Olsen Gaskey if I needed them. Good work so far. Mike. 

[Vladislav]

15 hours ago, Jack Innes said:

I have been working on the 27 AC most of the summer & now the engine is free, new valves installed & running well.  The clutch is freed up & adjusted.  It now has a 12 volt starter that came from a Cat Diesel & a John Deere ring gear - that also works well. The cab has all new panels & is permanently assembled & mounted firmly as original.     The rad is reconditioned & mounted- no leaks (so far).

Today was encouraging in that the truck moved under its own power for the first time in at least 50 years!

Today was also the first run with the new exhaust system -   I now know I need manifold gaskets -  any idea where to find them?

I have an embarrassing question-  Where is reverse???   I have 4 speeds forward but cannot find reverse.

I still need fenders, name plates & a rad cap plus many small parts.

 

Thank you for any suggestions,

Jack

 

Good job!

Nice to see the progress.

Edited September 15, 2018 by Vladislav

[j hancock]

Looks Good!

Electric start is a nice addition.

[Jack Innes]

17 hours ago, yarnall said:

On my 1925, I have to push down then it is left and back I think.  Push down and try all directions.  My AB is different than my AC.  I’d try Olsen Gaskey if I needed them. Good work so far. Mike. 

Thank you for the comments.

Mike,    Thank you, that tells me where to start.      I think something associated with the spring is missing on mine.  The spring has nothing to act on & therefore has no effect at all.  The lever is permanently down but will lift up a bit.    When you push down does the round collar on the lever end up under the large casting?   Maybe I need a spacer if that is the case.

Jack

[Hobert62]

I'm thinking by pushing down the shifter will be deep enough in the transmission to reach a diffrent shift fork.   But I could be totally wrong too. 

[Jack Innes]

I put temporary spacers under the shifter casting & now I have reverse!  Knowing where reverse should be certainly was a help.

Since the lever is permanently in the down position, the idiot proof aspect is lost.   Hopefully my idiot tendencies can be trained to not shift from 1st into reverse.

I think part no 10 AC-13 is what is missing,  the parts book illustration looks like a gasket but it must somehow connect to the spring??

Jack

[yarnall]

8 hours ago, Jack Innes said:

I put temporary spacers under the shifter casting & now I have reverse!  Knowing where reverse should be certainly was a help.

Since the lever is permanently in the down position, the idiot proof aspect is lost.   Hopefully my idiot tendencies can be trained to not shift from 1st into reverse.

I think part no 10 AC-13 is what is missing,  the parts book illustration looks like a gasket but it must somehow connect to the spring??

Jack

The good news is it will never allow you to shift from 1st to reverse. It is hard enough to shift from 1st to 2nd.  Mike. 

[Jack Innes]

Thank you Mike.   I just went for a trip to the end of my lane & managed 1st, 2nd & 3rd gear without trouble!     When I had the clutch & flywheel out to install the ring gear I did clean & set the clutch brake to the clearance in the manual.  It is doing its job & makes shifting easier for sure.   The power brake even works!

 

[Jack Innes]

I took the shift lever apart again & discovered that the brass ball should move on the shaft.  Mine had rusted in place.   Once freed & lubricated, the up & down aspect returned & the spacers were not needed.  The shifter now works almost like it should.

Went about 1/2 mile today successfully.  All gears work fine & returned home without any trouble. 

(Still need fenders!)

[Oucat]

This is my first visit to this forum.  Maybe someone can help me.  I’m restoring a 1928 model AB chain drive Mack dump truck.  I would like to find an electric starter motor for it.  I understand the correct starter motor is a Northeast but that is all I know.  I don’t care if it’s another brand as long as it will work.  I’m getting too old to crank it! My email is rbest@millercurber.com.