Crate engine suggestions

[HeavyGunner]

Looking to replace the engine in my pickup. So far I've liked what BluePrint Engines has to offer. You can get a balanced and blue printed 383 420-430hp 450ftlbs for well under 4 grand with a 3 year 30mi warranty. Any of you guys have any suggestions of people/companies you've dealt with that make something similar to these?  On a side note these engines all say somewhere in the description that an 1800rpm-2400rpm stall is suggested. I didn't have a stall converter on my last engine in the truck (warmed up vortec 350) and it seemed to motivate the truck just fine so I really don't see why I'd need one with an engine putting out way more torque. Is the stall converter for hot rod and drag applications for launching in the power band rather than practicality? 

 

 

 

Edited September 16, 2018 by HeavyGunner

[41chevy]

Probaby not for your uses.

The reason for increasing stall speed is directly related to the engine’s torque curve, you use extra rpm to put the engine closer to its torque peak. Adding stall speed to the torque converter keeps the engine trans combo it the "sweet spot" of the engines Torque curve.

For most street engines, converters in the  2,200 -rpm range are considered streetable but will still require a very efficient trans cooler to keep them out of the heat zone and burning the ATF.  Vehicle weight is another factor that should be considered when selecting a converter.  Units weighing over 3,300 pounds generally need a converter with more torque multiplication.  This is a very slick trick and can increase up to 2.5 times engine torque. This means that at a 2:1 torque multiplication ratio, an engine that is making 300 lb-ft of torque at a stall speed of 2,100 rpm will actually apply 500 lb-ft of torque to the input shaft of the transmission.

As for the company, they are reputable and actually created the 383 stroker before GM did.

 I would deal direct with Blue Print Engines, Same deal as with  Speedway or Jegs .         https://blueprintengines.com/collections/gm-compatible-crate-engines/make_gm

I would call and talk to Mr Marshall with you truck weight, trans type (TH400 or what ever) rear gear ratio and what your main uses are,he'll tell you what you do or do not need as a converter.

Me personally, would go with the 632 c.i. 815 h.p. 800 torgue. . .nice to have a bit of passing power

 

Edited January 18, 2018 by 41chevy

[Dirtymilkman]

Look up the crate engines from Cummins. 

[HeavyGunner]

I’d love to go with a giant big block Paul or that sweet little R2.8l but both of those are out of the question simply because of price. 

[j hancock]

What Paul said and I will just add that you really need to analyze what they are using for a cam.   Does it match your needs?  Work or around town?

Torque is king in a working truck.  Had an old K-20 that was all in at 2,000 rpm but it had the low end grunt to pull stumps.

[HeavyGunner]

9 minutes ago, j hancock said:

What Paul said and I will just add that you really need to analyze what they are using for a cam.   Does it match your needs?  Work or around town?

Torque is king in a working truck.  Had an old K-20 that was all in at 2,000 rpm but it had the low end grunt to pull stumps.

I’m trying to find a good mix of fun and some work. It’s a k20 with 35” tires th400, being that it has a lift in it I have no intentions of pulling my 5th wheel with it but I certainly will use it to move my tractor around or haul lumber etc. I’m trying to gain as much info as possible before I buy an engine and thank you guys for your input. I didn’t see any tq curve charts on the website for those engines. I suppose I’ll have to call them like Paul suggested and see what we can come up with. 

[41chevy]

13 hours ago, HeavyGunner said:

I’m trying to find a good mix of fun and some work. It’s a k20 with 35” tires th400, being that it has a lift in it I have no intentions of pulling my 5th wheel with it but I certainly will use it to move my tractor around or haul lumber etc. I’m trying to gain as much info as possible before I buy an engine and thank you guys for your input. I didn’t see any tq curve charts on the website for those engines. I suppose I’ll have to call them like Paul suggested and see what we can come up with. 

Blue Print Engines encloses a dyno sheet with each engine so you can see the curve for RPM for Horse Power and the curve  RPM for Torque.  Call Mr Marshall at BPE

[B MACK]

HeavyGunner,      I have heard good things about SUMMIT  high performance engines.   you can have it built to what you want power wise.    I'm going to do something with the 302 in my F150,   if I don't get my block rebuilt, I go with a SUMMIT engine.

[HeavyGunner]

13 hours ago, B MACK said:

HeavyGunner,      I have heard good things about SUMMIT  high performance engines.   you can have it built to what you want power wise.    I'm going to do something with the 302 in my F150,   if I don't get my block rebuilt, I go with a SUMMIT engine.

Good to know.  Have you ever dealt with Bradford & Sons over your way? I've heard decent things but don't really know much about them. 

[HeavyGunner]

I just got off of the phone with blueprint engines and after going over all of the specs of my pickup they suggested the aluminum head roller cam, 383 430hp 450ftlb with a 2000 stall. They said this is the most popular combo they sell for pickups and I wouldn't hardly notice the stall. 

[Dirtymilkman]

I know the older GM's were 1800 stall from the factory. 

[HeavyGunner]

1 hour ago, Dirtymilkman said:

I know the older GM's were 1800 stall from the factory. 

Huh, I had no idea. I've never driven anything (that I know of) with a stall, does the vehicle not move until you get to whatever rpm the stall converter is rated for?

[Dirtymilkman]

2 hours ago, HeavyGunner said:

Huh, I had no idea. I've never driven anything (that I know of) with a stall, does the vehicle not move until you get to whatever rpm the stall converter is rated for?

The vehicle will move but it won't put 100% of the power to the tranny till stall speed is reached. 

[HeavyGunner]

That makes more sense to me now. I thought it wouldn't mover until the stall rpm was achieved and I was picturing it being grabby and jerky if you were trying to simply accelerate and not taking off with a lead right foot. 

[Brocky]

HG  I think this is what the manufactures call "computer aided torque management" so that you can not tear up the drive line..

[terry]

1 hour ago, Brocky said:

HG  I think this is what the manufactures call "computer aided torque management" so that you can not tear up the drive line..

What did we do before computers!!    terry

[41chevy]

2 hours ago, Brocky said:

HG  I think this is what the manufactures call "computer aided torque management" so that you can not tear up the drive line..

  But the 1941 Oldmobile we had was a four speed Hydramatic from the factory. .. never saw any computer gizzmos, only a gas pedal torque m

 

13 hours ago, HeavyGunner said:

That makes more sense to me now. I thought it wouldn't mover until the stall rpm was achieved and I was picturing it being grabby and jerky if you were trying to simply accelerate and not taking off with a lead right foot. 

The converter stall speed in my Mustang is 4500 RPM which is where the turbo's reach close to 2/3's  boost. put the car in gear and let it idle, it WILL roll along at 5 - 10 MPH, just like any other car will when put in gear and with the brake off. In fact,I usually go through the pits with the  in gear and idling.  When my car is on the starting line, and the trans brake is on, you hit full throttle, the engine will wind-up to 4,500RPM with the car sitting there. When I slip my finger off the trans brake button,  the car instantly launches at 4,500 RPM,  which is pretty close to the peak torque curve when leaving the line. It also only lets rpm on shifts drop from 9200 down to 4550 via computer control on shifts. I'm actually under stall and should be 5000 or a bit more. 

Edited January 20, 2018 by 41chevy

[RowdyRebel]

On 1/19/2018 at 3:59 PM, HeavyGunner said:

Huh, I had no idea. I've never driven anything (that I know of) with a stall, does the vehicle not move until you get to whatever rpm the stall converter is rated for?

EVERY torque converter has a stall speed.  Under normal circumstances, you wouldn't notice the difference between a 1500 stall and a 3000 stall torque converter in your daily driving.  The stall speed comes into play during hard acceleration or when pulling a heavy load...it is simply the point where the engine cannot and will not turn any faster without the wheels spinning.  That advertised stall speed isn't even 100% accurate, because it'll vary depending upon a few variables such as engine size (less power = lower stall speed).  If you have a trans brake and mash the throttle, it'll "stall" at your torque converter's stall speed...because the wheels can't turn, and the engine won't turn faster.

You want to select a stall speed that makes the most of your power band.  For example, if you hit peak HP at 2500 RPM, you don't want a 3000 stall converter because you're already on the back side of the power curve.  However, if you're peaking at 5000 RPM, then that 3000 or 3500 stall converter makes sense.

[B MACK]

On ‎1‎/‎19‎/‎2018 at 7:54 AM, HeavyGunner said:

Good to know.  Have you ever dealt with Bradford & Sons over your way? I've heard decent things but don't really know much about them. 

I've never dealt with Bradford. I've heard , yes they are really good and spendy??     Add Vance is suppose to be good also.

[Ezrider]

a mild 383 would be very nice for a pickup. a 2k stall converter is not going to drive any differently than stock, you shouldn't even notice. 

[41chevy]

One additional bit of info  If you are going to run headers, the primary tube diameter will also affect your torque curve. Smaller primaries  about 1 3/4" will be low to mid range, 2'' or larger will move the torque curve up about 1000 to 1400 rpm. 

[HeavyGunner]

So a quick update. I made the deal on a vortec engine. It's the 5.3l was built, broke in then did some dyno pulls then stripped down to a long block.  Yes I would've liked to buy a 383 but the price was right on this engine ($1600) so I figured it has way more snort than a stock 350 so I pulled the trigger. It has the 6.0l cam in it which Gm suggested to this guy for the build. Now the big question is what efi system do I put on this or should I just forget about it and put my carb and intake off of my other engine on it? I've been looking at the different self learning efi kits and like everything the price goes from mild to wild.  Anyone out there have any experience with th aftermarket efi kits?  Here's the ad and it gives you a fair idea of what the engine build is. 

 

Edited September 16, 2018 by HeavyGunner

[2000CL713]

for a motor i use thompson motorsports in TX

for standalone's you have a big price range for these motors. a good opt for a low cost and can handle whatever you want to do with the motor from making 300hp to 1200hp is a megasquirt. go to efisource,com and you can get a plug and play setup for less then $800 bucks if i recall.