John Deere Introduces New Easy Change 30-Second Oil Change System

[kscarbel2]

OEM Off-Highway  /  February 14, 2018

John Deere's Easy Change system allows owners to change oil by simply twisting on a new cartridge that contains both the oil and the filter with no engine oil drainage needed.

John Deere launches the Easy Change 30-Second Oil Change System for quick and easy oil changes on select lawn tractors. With the new system, owners can change oil by simply twisting on a new cartridge that contains both the oil and the filter – no engine oil drainage needed. This revolutionary technology makes changing the engine oil easy, quick, and clean. Changing the [$40] filter removes the captured contaminants and replaces about 0.8 qt (0.76 L) of the engine oil.

This integrated system is exclusive to John Deere and reduces the skill and effort traditionally required for oil changes – no fuss, no mess. There is no draining required, and it takes one quarter turn to remove the old cartridge and another quarter turn to install a new cartridge. This makes is easy for nearly anyone to change the oil in their lawn tractor, empowering more owners to take tractor maintenance into their own hands.

“Our main priority is to provide an easy and hassle-free experience for owners to maintain their lawn tractors,” says Kirk Eisenbeis, Product Marketing Manager for John Deere. “The ability to change oil easily, quickly, and without a mess is really appealing to people who don’t have traditional oil change experience.”

The John Deere Easy Change 30-Second Oil Change system is available on the following 2018 models of 100 Series Lawn Tractors: E120, E130, E150, E160, E170 and E180.

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[kscarbel2]

John Deere

The John Deere Easy Change 30-second oil change system makes changing the engine oil easy, quick, and clean. Changing the oil is as easy as twisting on a new oil-filled filter. Oil does not need to be drained from the engine.

The John Deere Easy Change filter is an additional engine oil reservoir. Changing the filter removes the captured contaminants and replaces about 0.8 qt (0.76 L) of the engine oil. 

Compared to the 100 Series traditional oil filter, the Easy Change oil system uses a synthetic filter media material, has more filtering capacity, and has more oil flow capacity, — and the engine system has 40 percent more oil volume.

Everyone who uses the John Deere Easy Change system saves time and avoids the mess of a traditional oil change. In the past, many 100 Series Lawn Tractor owners rarely or never got around to changing their engine oil. With John Deere Easy Change, even owners who previously would not consider changing the oil themselves can easily do it now. The Easy Change 30-second oil change system is a no-mess, no-fuss solution the competition cannot match.

Installation instructions are in the Operator’s Manual and in the John Deere Easy Change service part box.

Please recycle. Many local government recycling programs, authorized retailers, auto-service centers, and auto-parts stores will puncture and recycle used oil filters 

[kscarbel2]

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[Maxidyne]

$60 MSRP, and changes only half the oil= Not worth it for a throwaway Chinese made "lawn tractor" that the Deere dealers have disowned.

[kscarbel2]

8 hours ago, Maxidyne said:

$60 MSRP, and changes only half the oil= Not worth it for a throwaway Chinese made "lawn tractor" that the Deere dealers have disowned.

The Deere 100 Series are built in Tennessee. They are sold by Lowes, Home Depot AND Deere dealers. If you purchase at HD, it is prepped and delivered by your local Deere dealer (not sure about Lowes units). You can bypass Lowes and HD, and purchase at the Deere dealer directly for the same Lowes and HD price.

I do prefer the Kawasaki engines on the Select Models sold at dealers, but a 100 series is half the price of an X300, and will suffice for most people if they only plan to mow.

$40 is pricey for that “Easy Change” filter every 50 hours, given it's not synthetic oil.

I dislike the Briggs engines on the 100 Series but again, for most people, they will meet expectations.

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[Maxidyne]

Those aren't the ones I've heard of. I've heard of made in China Deere lawn tractors sold in big box stores, the dealers can't even get parts for them and want nothing to do with them.

[grayhair]

My old Deere lawn tractor with 18 hp Kawasaki engine and hydrostatic trans ran flawlessly for 30 years mowing 2 acres weekly.  I finally gave it away 2 years ago when the front axle pivot shaft mount cracked where it was welded to the frame.  Dealers wouldn't work on it because you'd have to remove just about everything from the frame to get to it.  I worked on for several hours and busted knuckles and finally gave up on it.

I didn't like the lighter construction of the new Deere mowers so we spent a little extra and got a Toro Timecutter 4250 with Toro's own 24 hp V2 engine. It's a zero turn and cut mowing time for our place from 3-1/2 hours to 1-1/2 hours.  Way quicker.  Bonus - wife actually likes driving it so I'm pleasantly retired from that task.  Now, if only I could get her to like weed eating...

Edited February 22, 2018 by grayhair

[kscarbel2]

Zero turns are great, particularly the short "stand on" commercial models (e.g. Ferris, Wright).

However, if you bag, the issue with models like the Toro Timecutter zero turn is the long overall length with the rear-mounted bagger attachment at the rear. You lose the maneuverability potential of zero turns in tight spaces because of the long rear footprint swinging around behind you.

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[Freightrain]

I still run my '72 149 Cub Cadet.   Just machined my other Cub(127) pivot bushing for brass insert and the same with spindles.  It is nice and tight now.  Few hours and $15 in parts.  You do have to pull the engine to get access to the pin.   PITA, but not that horrible overall.  Will be doing my 149 this spring now that the 127 is ready.

I was going to look at newer tractors, but with all the crap on them I really wasn't interested.  Plastic everything, all the stupid safety switches(to back up you have to turn a switch, turn off the deck, turn the key back and then reverse.  NOT). 

[kscarbel2]

Your 149 Cub Cadet was, I feel, the best generation of them all. The chrome hydrostatic control lever stood out.

[HeavyGunner]

My neighbor has a bicentennial (I’m assuming by the paint it’s a bicentennial) cub cadet, has a shiny grill, round headlights and if my memory serves me blue stripes on either side of the hood with red pinstriping around them and white stars in the blue stripes. As for the no skill required spendy oil Change that only changes part of the oil? Nah, not for me but I do see where it’d appeal to someone with no skill or ambition to learn how to change oil. 

Edited February 22, 2018 by HeavyGunner

[Freightrain]

I have a picture of my 149, basically the same machine as the 127.  The 127 is electric lift instead of hydraulic.

The 127 came from a friend, needed some loving.  Runs well, just needed some front end work and new tires.

Edited February 22, 2018 by Freightrain

[Maxidyne]

My Deere 1 series and tow vehicle, of course both are diesel powered! After wearing out a Honda walk behind mower, a snow blower, and myself mowing nearly an acre and clearing out a hundred foot long driveway prone to drifting, I went big and bought the tractor, loader, and mower last year. It's a little big for mowing and only clears a 4 foot swath of snow at a time, but anything bigger would require a gas hog to haul and then I'd have to buy a second tractor to do the mowing. Works great, I've even plowed our side streets a couple times with it and mowed the neighbor's yards!

[Freightrain]

Friend just bought a new Deere with quick attach loader and deck.  Pricey!  I'll stick with my 45 yr old stuff.

[Maxidyne]

I shopped around for a used diesel tractor on Craigslist and at the auctions, but prices were insane- Like $2000 for a 25 year old Kubota that wouldn't even start. Went to an IH collectors moving auction and he had a couple decent 782 Cub Cadet diesels that went for $3000 to $4000. I like the little Ford 1100 and 1200 diesels, but again, crazy prices- $4900 for a 30+ year old one with a loader and $2000 for a beat to hell one that barely ran. Way too much money for tractors that need repairs, had only 10-15 horsepower to begin with, and didn't have necessities like front wheel assist and ROPS, etc..

So I bit the bullet, bargained the price down from $20k to $15k, and I can probably sell it for that but I doubt I'll ever give it up!

[Freightrain]

Yes, the oldies are starting to command big money, as no one wants to bite off the payment on a $20K lawn tractor!!  Kinda like old cars.  Most figure you will pay a fair sum for a decent old car then $35K for a new car.

[davehummell]

I had old cubs and wheel horse tractors and john deere 400 and a 318 i got tired of fixing them and bought one of those 1023e little john deeres i guess it's ok had it for 2 or 3 years didn't have to fix it yet.

[Wobblin-Goblin]

6 hours ago, Freightrain said:

I have a picture of my 149, basically the same machine as the 127.  The 127 is electric lift instead of hydraulic.

The 127 came from a friend, needed some loving.  Runs well, just needed some front end work and new tires.

Back when they were called "lawn and garden" tractors, not "lawnmowers."

[kscarbel2]

There are two categories today, both lawn and garden tractors, and riding lawn mowers.

For example, the John Deere 100 Series are riding lawn mowers, You can fit a plow or snow blower, but that's about it.

The Deere dealer exclusive 300, 500 and 700 Series "Select" models are full range lawn and garden tractors with heavier frames and a wide range of implements.

http://www.deere.com/en_US/docs/html/brochures/publication.html?id=a56dff2b#1

The rear-engined Gravely tractors were a serious machine.

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[66dc75]

9 hours ago, Freightrain said:

I still run my '72 149 Cub Cadet.   Just machined my other Cub(127) pivot bushing for brass insert and the same with spindles.  It is nice and tight now.  Few hours and $15 in parts.  You do have to pull the engine to get access to the pin.   PITA, but not that horrible overall.  Will be doing my 149 this spring now that the 127 is ready.

I was going to look at newer tractors, but with all the crap on them I really wasn't interested.  Plastic everything, all the stupid safety switches(to back up you have to turn a switch, turn off the deck, turn the key back and then reverse.  NOT). 

What's that, about a 10000 lb front axle??

[keg1]

If changing oil in a lawn mower is above a persons skill level they probably shouldn't be using one.

[hatcity]

30 minutes ago, keg1 said:

If changing oil in a lawn mower is above a persons skill level they probably shouldn't be using one.

yes, but in the first video, he has his safety glasses and driving gloves on

surprised he isn't wearing hearing protection too

[grayhair]

Somebody posted this on this site before.  And I saved the photo because it seemed to me to be the best solution to the under-powered lawn tractors epidemic.  just needs the mower deck reinstalled.

Edited February 23, 2018 by grayhair

[Freightrain]

2 hours ago, 66dc75 said:

What's that, about a 10000 lb front axle??

Solid cast iron baby!!  Nothing whimpy on old Cubs.  1\4" steel frame!  Solid cast iron rear axle assembly.  5 x 4 1\2" bolt circle on the back fits Ford car rims.  Deck is cast iron center with 1\8-3\16" formed deck.

[j hancock]

15 minutes ago, Freightrain said:

Solid cast iron baby!!  Nothing whimpy on old Cubs.  1\4" steel frame!  Solid cast iron rear axle assembly.  5 x 4 1\2" bolt circle on the back fits Ford car rims.  Deck is cast iron center with 1\8-3\16" formed deck.

With those specs, I can understand now why you use the Cub as a yard tug for moving the race trailer around. 

At first, I figured you just parked it there to keep it out of the rain...