Gashog Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 I think I posted this in the wrong gateway so I'll post it here. I'm looking for the shutdown cutoff solenoid location on my E7. I think mice may have got a wire. Can anyone help me diag my no start? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/53080-e7-300-wont-start/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gashog Posted April 18, 2018 Author Share Posted April 18, 2018 Anyone? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/53080-e7-300-wont-start/#findComment-397018 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 I don't know E-7 engines but the shutdown solenoid should be on the injection pump itself as that is where the fuel cutoff takes place. Does the engine crank with the starter? Do you have normal indications with dash lights, buzzers, normal power up sequence when you go to the "On" position of the ignition switch but don't start the truck? Once you find the shutdown solenoid, it should only have voltage applied to it when the ignition key is in the "On" position. If you don't have voltage at this condition, start backtracking in that circuit. Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/53080-e7-300-wont-start/#findComment-397019 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gashog Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 On 4/18/2018 at 8:26 AM, Rob said: I don't know E-7 engines but the shutdown solenoid should be on the injection pump itself as that is where the fuel cutoff takes place. Does the engine crank with the starter? Do you have normal indications with dash lights, buzzers, normal power up sequence when you go to the "On" position of the ignition switch but don't start the truck? Once you find the shutdown solenoid, it should only have voltage applied to it when the ignition key is in the "On" position. If you don't have voltage at this condition, start backtracking in that circuit. The engine cranks normally. I have fuel to the injection pump. When I turn the key on, everything seems normal. The engine warning light proves out within 10 seconds and I can hear and feel all the relays click in the dash panel. I have looked at the pump but I'm not sure where the cutoff solenoid is. I found the injection timing actuator and the "cam" sensor. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/53080-e7-300-wont-start/#findComment-397351 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 That engine "may" have a crankshaft position sensor too. I don't know but if it does that fuel shutoff solenoid may not engage if the crankshaft position sensor does not sense crankshaft rotation. Again I don't know the electronic engines very well but automobiles operate that way. Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/53080-e7-300-wont-start/#findComment-397353 Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 The elab valve engages with the turn of the switch the engine should run with out the rpm sensor it will not run without the timing event marker on the pump but will throw a code and the check engine light will be on for both i believe ! Most often By what your describing the rack control has gone west in these cases the pump has to come of and sent to a Bosch Fuel pump shop and parts replaced! 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/53080-e7-300-wont-start/#findComment-397410 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 Sounds like the mechanical rack is positioned by a balanced triac assembly inside the injection pump? Basically the variable resistance offered by the electronic accelerator pedal drives a positioning circuit inside the pump to operate the rack. Pretty simple design but I'm sure there are a lots of proprietary parts involved. Never been around anything like that so only guessing on my part. Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/53080-e7-300-wont-start/#findComment-397412 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gashog Posted April 25, 2018 Author Share Posted April 25, 2018 On 4/23/2018 at 9:51 AM, fjh said: The elab valve engages with the turn of the switch the engine should run with out the rpm sensor it will not run without the timing event marker on the pump but will throw a code and the check engine light will be on for both i believe ! Most often By what your describing the rack control has gone west in these cases the pump has to come of and sent to a Bosch Fuel pump shop and parts replaced! Googling Mack ELAB, I was shocked to learn that Allison Mack is actually a dominatrix sex slave master! But no luck finding anything helpful in diaging my truck. Is that solenoid on the back of the injection pump? I'd like to be sure that there are no chewed wires before I go pulling the injection pump off. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/53080-e7-300-wont-start/#findComment-397556 Share on other sites More sharing options...
fjh Posted April 25, 2018 Share Posted April 25, 2018 The sex slave valve was mounted on the fuel rail incoming line on the older first gen engines yours may not have it' it was done away with after a few years! In my opinion as long as your ecu fuses are good and the connections at the firewall pass thru are good no worn thru wires ect: you need to pull the pump and have it repaired! the rack controller is likely toast! Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/53080-e7-300-wont-start/#findComment-397566 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gashog Posted April 25, 2018 Author Share Posted April 25, 2018 2 hours ago, fjh said: The sex slave valve was mounted on the fuel rail incoming line on the older first gen engines yours may not have it' it was done away with after a few years! In my opinion as long as your ecu fuses are good and the connections at the firewall pass thru are good no worn thru wires ect: you need to pull the pump and have it repaired! the rack controller is likely toast! OK I'll double check all the wires and fuses (breakers) carefully. If the rack controller is bad, would there be a fault code? Also, can you verify the flashout procedure for me? I know that the cruise control switch triggers that function but I'm not sure if I'm doing it correctly. :New sig! I am a slave to my trucks! Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/53080-e7-300-wont-start/#findComment-397577 Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldRedMack Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 We have a 94 rd that would do this, I'm not good at remembering the actual part name. But there is an air valve behind the dash that will go bad, swap it out and fired right up. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/53080-e7-300-wont-start/#findComment-398062 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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