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New to the site. I've wanted a B61 tractor since I was about 12.  Finally picked one up tonight. Although not new to the trucking or restoration world, im looking forward to getting into this project and learning what I can from the wealth of knowledge here.  I would post a pic, but site keeps saying upload failed.........any advice?imageproxy.php?img=&key=a8b8d98f5855eef7imageproxy.php?img=&key=a8b8d98f5855eef7imageproxy.php?img=&key=a8b8d98f5855eef7

Edited by Penndutchrestoration
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43 minutes ago, j hancock said:

Welcome!  Don't know why the picture failed to load.  If it is saved to your computer usually hitting the "choose files" button will take of it.

Jim is right...did you save the pics on your computer first?

Welcome and Yorks not far from Lititz, Pa.   I think its the first Saturday in October there's a nice little Mack truck show there.   It's not huge but a nice show to talk to people.    Someone will have the info about the show.  

take the air cleaner off!! cant stress enough how much mice like those. make sure there is not a nest in the top haif that sucks right into the intake and run it off a can of fuel not those old tans.  prime it up and pop start it, maybe after an oil change

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If you want to be very smart you will take off the side plate on the fuel pump and make SHURE the 6 injectors are free. This stuff is very costly and hard to replace. If you do pull down one of the bearings make shure you don't take the shell out of the cap. I looked long and hard for a set of 20 under rod bearings. Those 5 ring pistons are going to be a real treat to find rings. You should soak the injectors with a good brand off liquid wrench even if they aren't stuck but they will be if it sat for a long time. Get some good batterys and spin the engine over until you have oil pressure with the fuel knob pulled out. Good luck

Thanks for the good advice! I will definately pull the cover off the pump and check for stuck plungers and rack.  I've seen a Detroit run away....not a fun experience.   Also filters and oil change.  I am also figuring on pulling the valve covers to check for any stuck valves before cranking it over with the starter.  

I'm sure it's been covered many times before, but is the 12/24volt system worth fixing, or should I just change over to a 12 volt starter.  I would like to keep the truck as correct as possible, but im not sure it's worth the aggravation.

 

9 minutes ago, Penndutchrestoration said:

Thanks for the good advice! I will definately pull the cover off the pump and check for stuck plungers and rack.  I've seen a Detroit run away....not a fun experience.   Also filters and oil change.  I am also figuring on pulling the valve covers to check for any stuck valves before cranking it over with the starter.  

I'm sure it's been covered many times before, but is the 12/24volt system worth fixing, or should I just change over to a 12 volt starter.  I would like to keep the truck as correct as possible, but im not sure it's worth the aggravation.

 

key to the 12/24 system is a good series/parallel  switch, but if everything is up to par they will turn that engine like you would not believe.   terry:MackLogo:

 My series parallel switch had a stud that was stripped.    At the same time the kenworth dealer in carlise had new delco 39mt 12 volt starters on sale so I just went the new 12 volt starter route.   With my battery cable vise gripped to the parallel switch it started fine though.  

ITs been years ago when I changed the parallel switch on my white cabover and it was not cheap then god only knows what it costs now. That system really worked very well if everything was in good working order.

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