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You can take rad out and a rad shop could flush it out for you. I have a 41 Plymouth and had same issue. I ran water and dish soap instead of antifreeze and flushed it out about 5 times. Running it til it's at operating temperature then repeating. That slime is probably just buildup from running water all those years.

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5 hours ago, alex g said:

You can take rad out and a rad shop could flush it out for you. I have a 41 Plymouth and had same issue. I ran water and dish soap instead of antifreeze and flushed it out about 5 times. Running it til it's at operating temperature then repeating. That slime is probably just buildup from running water all those years.

I was always told to use dishwasher detergent. Easier to clean out.

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The only bad thing I found was a good leak from the rear valve cover and the front valve cover is wet

How hard is it to do the valve cover gaskets?

How are the jake brake spacers held on? Or are they just sitting there?

Should I use the cork or rubber gaskets?

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I would fill the radiator with water and then put dish soap and then run/ Drive it so it gets good and hot for a few hrs then drain it. you will need to do this a few times to get the brown color out. that slime you see can be alge. I would flush it a few times like this before you re fill it with Anti freeze.  they make a chemical that you can add into it as well if you dont think dish soap works good.

Valve cover gaskets are super easy. pull them off and the gasket is right there. I like rubber gaskets as they dont leak as bad.

the speedo cable just screws into the back of the gauge. some pliers is all you need. Same deal near the trans output shaft yoke at the adapter.  If the cable is still good you should add some sort of oil or graphite into it from up by the gauge and let it soak in the cable to help prevent rust. it will also help keep the gauge from jumping if the cable is binding a little .

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Ditto, valve covers pretty easy.  Jake spacers just sit on there.  I think I used rubber when I put mine together.  Put some RTV on one side of each gasket to hold in position.  Still dry after a couple years.

 

Edited by Freightrain
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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Before you put the valve covers back on take a 2x4 and a hammer,turn the covers upside  down and give them a rap or 2 at the bolt holes, they have a tendency to get sucked down from tightening and don't seal the best. I've only ever seen rubber gaskets for these. 

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Cascade makes a great final wash, or to remove residual oil after an oil cooler leaks into the cooling system, but to get the nasties out of a cooling system there is better available.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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My Jake spacers aren't perfect matches to the valve cover either, but do like mentioned and flatten the cover slightly to increase clamp pressure when tightening the bolts.  They do bottom out on a shoulder of the bolt.  New sealing washer on top might also help.  Maybe mock up without gaskets might give you some insight on how much crush you will get.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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  • 2 months later...

I tried to do the valve covers last weekend and discovered that the jake brake spacers will not come off without removing the jake brake assembly.

I also discovered that the rear valve cover is messed up but I found a PAI one for a decent price and am just waiting for it to get here.

The engine has a lot of gold paint on it. Is gold the correct color for the engine and what is a good source for engine paint.

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