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engine is a 4 bolt main 97 vortec 350 that i rebiult running modified vortec heads and a lt4 hot cam. ((intake/exhaust) is 218/228; and maximum lift with 1.6 rocker ratio (intake/exhaust) is 525/525.) 9.4:1 CR

7 hours ago, Ezrider said:

engine is a 4 bolt main 97 vortec 350 that i rebiult running modified vortec heads and a lt4 hot cam. ((intake/exhaust) is 218/228; and maximum lift with 1.6 rocker ratio (intake/exhaust) is 525/525.) 9.4:1 CR

You could really use the SBC in my 55 Chevy. Perfectly street able, runs on E85 and runs 30% over drive on a BDS 4/71, Algon injector hat.

Edited by 41chevy
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"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

if you want to donate it to me ill give it a very nice home....lol. 

 

its actually pretty stout na once i got threw some tuning issues on it. would have been better with more compression but when i put the engine together i was planning on running one of these small case blowers. so i didn't want to build it any higher. its a street car that might see a couple days a year on test and tune days at the drag strip when everything is ironed out. power goal is around 500 flywheel hp. if i can get an 11.99 pass out of it i would be pretty happy. car weighs an estimated 37-3800 lbs. 

bench racing calculators say i should make 535 hp at just 5lbs of boost witch should be relatively safe on my engine setup. weather or not the small blower will run out of steam before peek horsepower or not is a bit of a question mark. but even then should make nice gains under the curve witch will be good for seat of the pants feel in a street car. 

 

i really had a wiand 177 in mind but i couldn't find intakes for the vortec heads for the 177 blowers. so then i was thinking of upgrading to a better head to solve that problem but i think at that point id probably make more power than i really built the bottom end for. its basically all stock bottom end stuff. the vortec heads are modified for extra valve lift different springs and exhaust guides are profiled and exhaust side is cleaned up a bit. 

 

iv got another core 350 sitting around on a stand i plan on rebuilding for another project but if it needs crank or rods or anything it will probably be built into a forged 383 and end up in the jag and the jag engine would end up in the other project. if i can get away with a hone re-ring and bearings it will probably just get a set of flatop pistons and end up in the other project then the hot cam will probably end up in that engine and a more blower specific cam in the jaguar. the heads from the jag may also end up on that engine as well as there already modified. hopfully i will get that other engine torn down soon. i want to get that project to the point of moving under its own power by spring. but its probably not going to happen, i wanted to have the engine done a couple months ago but other things keep coming up and putting it on the engine stand is as far as iv gotten. 

 

the 142 blower i bought hopefully works out good. its a used setup that saved about 1500 over a new one with the vortec manifold. comes with both a vortec intake as well as a standard sbc intake, a couple different pullys in both 6 and 10 rib setups. hopefully its all in good shape like the guy claims. 

14 hours ago, Ezrider said:

 

yeah i took the factory 4.0L 6 out about 2 years ago and put in a pretty warm sbc and 700r4

I didn't note you said it was straight 6 4.0L. Only later series XJS had straight 6. That's why I thoufght it had V12 5.3.

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

8 hours ago, 41chevy said:

I'm running a Comp Cam 694 roller. 300° Intake / 308° Exhaust, ' Lift:255° Intake / 262° Exhaust, 1.7 Rockers:.652'' Intake / .652'' Exhaust with Lobe Separation Angle:114° with a steep ramp. Solid rollers. Good from 3500 to 8200 rpm.Heads are Brodix.  5/8 fuel line to engine driven vane pump restricted to 12 g.p.m.with by pass circuit through barrel valve with by pass to  .082 injector tubes. Comp is 10.25. 440 stroker SBC. Good for 624 r.w.h.p.  4 speed running 2nd 3rd and 4th rear is Dana90 running 6:05 locker. Rear tire diameter grows close to a foot during run. 

 

sounds like a pretty interesting setup. sounds like a real screamer. 

2 hours ago, Vladislav said:

I didn't note you said it was straight 6 4.0L. Only later series XJS had straight 6. That's why I thoufght it had V12 5.3.

its a 1993 its not accually that old of a car it just looks old because the body remained the same for so many years, its the first year of the "facelift" cars though in the us headlights changed to the ones that were standard in the uk and the tail light panel was changed. other than that the body of the car is the same as the first xjs that rolled off the line

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they used to use very little salt in nd. they would put some salted sand (mostly sand just enough salt to keep the sand from freezing as you said) down on the intersections then most the rest of our roads were just plowed and left ice pack for the majority of the winter. the last few years they have really started using a lot more salt and trying to maintain bare roads. last year hauling road salt out of Canada most the nd dot salt barns were telling me that the dot was pushing them to use 100% salt and they were only adding enough sand to be able to see it better when spreading. really kind of causes more problem than it solves because when the wind blows across a heavily salted road rather than just blowing over the road it sticks and re freezes way slicker than a little hard packed snow would be. they have even been pre treating when the forcast calls for snow with a salt brine, they never used to do that. if they keep it up im sure were start seeing far more rust here. but as of right now we have far less rust problems than our neighboring states. 

 

the jag never sees snow though and i bought it in Kentucky one year when i was down there visiting my brother. its very rust free nothing in the body panels or underneaith there was a couple spots of surface rust starting under the carpet in the front probably from the top leaking. cleaned that up and treated hasn't gotten any worse. 

 

i don't drive it at all in the snow, i drove it in the snow maybe twice in the time iv owned it and it was not a fun experience. in its current configuration it can be a handful in the rain. i think i would rather walk than try to go anywhere in the snow with it...lol

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7 hours ago, Ezrider said:

sounds like a pretty interesting setup. sounds like a real screamer.

It has been a gasser since 1962 . First my pop and uncle, then me. set up for the 1/8th mile and the trip to the deli :)

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

got any pictures of the whole car? it is super fun to watch the gassers race, wheels up and sideways off the line...lol

 

how does that e-85 work out in a play toy. i have never really considered running e85 mostly cause iv seen what 10% ethanol will do to carbs if they sit around a while. i could only imagine e85

i got home today and one piece of the puzzle has arrived. i couldn't help myself i had to set it on the engine and on the car to see what it was going to look like. looks a little goofy sitting ontop of the hood hopefully it will look a little better when there is a bit of engine sticking out with it. looks great on the engine though. 

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E-85 makes lots of power.I don't have carbs on it. I run and ancient  1963 vintage Algon two pot injector. Replaced every o ring, seal and Tygon fuel line for the injection. Your running carbs you can run Barricade Ethanol Proof Fuel Hose by Gates. Grey color. Summit or Jeggs has the Ethanol /methanol carb kits for all the aftermarket performance carbs and a diaphragm kit and power valve if your running Hollys.

Here it the car in 2016, second photo is 1963 or 64.when it had a full floater 3/4 ton rear in it with 5:88. Bored 283 to 301c.i. twin WCFB's, set of 283/283 Fuelie heads, Howard solid lifter cam Scialita magneto and a 3 speed. I have pics of it in 1973 somewhere when it was a street racer. Blown 427 BBC, 4 speed and 4:56 Olds rear with weld spider gears. I was pulling in 4 to 7 grand a weekend running on the  Connecting Highway in NYC.  The cars named "Death Wish" . Tech at the last East Coast Gassers Meet named it that because I'm still running the OEM steering box and original style master cylinder. Runs 5.87 @ 119.4 in the 1/8 mile.  I am going to need to address the chassis, lots of flex after 57 years of drag racing.

2v2uJTdYSxAhT9W.jpgHosted on Fotki

2v2uJ8fhixAhT9W.jpgHosted on Fotki

Edited by 41chevy
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"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

did i couple quick modifications on the carb in preparation for the rest of the parts to come in. with the supercharger you want to be able to reference your powervalve to the intake manifold below the supercharger so you need a external port to hook a vacuum line to as vacuum under the carb is no longer directly tied to engine load. on the summit racing carb there was power valves on both the primary's and secondary's. and the power valves are located under a small cover under each float bowl.  i put a block off in the secondary's and bumped up the secondary jets 7 sizes . drilled a hole slightly smaller than 3/16's and covered a short piece of 3/16th break line in some 2 part epoxy and pressed it into the hole giving me a nipple i can externally hook a vacuum line to. i then found a drill bit just slightly larger than the port that used to feed the power valve from under the throttle body's cut about 1/4 inch of the shank off of it covered it in 2 part epoxy and drove it in the port with a punch to block off the passage. then put it all back together hooked a hand vacuum pump to the nipple applied a vacuum then worked on a few other things for an hour came back and the needed had not moved. so i re installed the carb.

i will route the new power valve port back to a manifold vacuum port on the carb till i get the blower put on. new fuel pump came in at the house today while i was out at the shop so hopefully. ill get that installed in the morning tomorrow and if the weather will cooperate a quick run around the block to make sure everything is functioning properly and that my secondary jetting is not off in left feild although i fully expect to have to re jet both anyway i don't want to start off a mile out if i can help it. 

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Edited by Ezrider

Nice. Don't want a lean pop through the blower.  Guess how I learned that. Course then blowers on the street were mysteries.

What rear is in the Jag? Factory IRS or the 9 inch Ford IRS?

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"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

factory jag. 3.55's and a limited slip.

the jag irs uses the same ring and pinion as a dana 44. there fairly stout. from the little bit of research iv done there is more issues with the rubber sub frame mounts tearing apart than actually breaking rear ends. 

Try to get a rod /tube of Nylatron or  hard polyurethane and machine a set out on a lathe or give me dimensions and I'll make some for you over the winter. I made up at set for my leaf springs and trans mount. No lost of power through bushings or mount flex..

 

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

these mounts that attach the rear sub frame to the body of the car are a bit known for having issues when pushing pretty good power. 

jaguar-xjs-convertible-rear-susp-mount-kit-cbc5737-set-o-4-pieces

they would be pretty easy to made solid steal replacements from a old set though. 3 out of 4 of mine failed back when it still had the original engine certainly made for some scary handling. that was about 3 years ago that i replaced them and so far they have held up to everything iv thrown at it although im sure they wont last near as long as the last set did...lol 

the other bushings that are a bit prone to fail are the radius arm bushings. although they seem to more from the fact that there forced to flex as the suspension cycles than carrying large torque loads. 

JAGUAR-XJS-RADIUS-ARM-BUSHING-SET-MHC3170AA-MHC3160AA

 

these could possibly be good candidates or a poly urethane upgrade. they do need some defection though as the suspension cycles these need to be able to twist rather than move in only one direction threw the eye like a leaf spring bushing they are available in polyurethane from a couple sources. 

lower control arm is actually on tapered roller bearings rather than bushings and very stout, there is no axle wrap what so ever in this setup. the only axle wrap that could possibly occur is in the bushings that mount the sub frame to the body. the twisting force is carried by the outer hub assemblies threw the lower control arm into the rear sub frame all those pivot points are not on rubber 

i have seen some talk of people cracking the outer hub assembly however that seems to be more an issue on the bit later xjs and xj6 with the outboard breaks. mine has inboard breaks (breaks are on the irs diff rather than the wheel ends.) when they moved the breaks to the wheel ends the year after mine was built to eliminate 12 hours of labor rear rotor changes. they lightened the hub assemblies to try to counter act the addition of un sprung weight of having the breaks outboard. the rear suspension that is in my car is known to be the beefiest available. 

the jaguar rear irs was a pretty popular rear end swap for many street rodders and lots of big block have put there power down threw them over the years. although they were not biult for ease of service they work well. very little camber change threw out the entire suspension travel. low unsprung weight and no axle wrap makes it extremely grippy both in acceleration and cornering. the dampening and spring are a little on the soft side for cornering but it really transfers weight to the rear well on acceleration. and does track nice and flat around corners.  i wouldn't be too surprised if it dead hooks on slicks at the drag strip. but that will defiantly be the test of how strong it really is. 

Never knew that had the first design IRS with the in board discs, always thought that body style had the second design IRS

My dads XKE BB/Gasser ran a blown 427 with the original IRS only change he did was add a pair of coil overs to stiffen the travel up. Front suspension was stock with 90-10 shock installed. got a pic somewhere at home of it.

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"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

im not really sure how much resemblance the xke rear suspension there is to the xjs. just not something iv ever looked into it very well could be the same if not very similar. the rear suspension on my car is the same as the first xjs to roll off the line rear suspension was also shared with the xj6-12 my car was kinda a transition year. it got the updated headlights and tail light panel, but with different style bumpers than typically found on "facelift" cars. as well as the updated dash/gauge panel. also had the 4.0L inline 6 but it didn't get the updated coil on plug ignition system or outboard rear breaks that were on the following year car.

 

xke's are defiantly very cool cars id like to own one but the prices of even just a scrap shell are a bit insane these days. 

XK and XJ are the same design but bigger ham and beefier mounts for the weight and power increases.Way more bullet proof the the 60's Vette IRS.  Made a few dozen 9' ford housings into Vette rear conversions.  In the 70's mid 80's we were the shop on Long Island for Jag, Triumph and MGC V-8 conversions. Even did a 215 Buick V8 in to a Lotus Europa. 

I'll look for dads XKE pic If you want.   Paul

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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