Rear axle wheel bearings

[68-f-model]

Ran into an unknown this afternoon when replacing the wheel bearings and seals on the f-model.

I ordered based on the timken book for my axle,hub casting #’s  and year a 382-372 cone cup for the inner bearings . These has a “Mack special radius” according to timken.

Now the glitch is  the bearings I took out are 380-372 set.     

Both the 380 and the 382 are identical in dimensions, but the 382 has a larger inner radius. See pictures.

Which is the right one for my f-model?

Should I go with the timken catalogue or what was installed previously?

Thanks

Edited October 28, 2018 by 68-f-model

[Swishy]

Either way

Go loctite

cya

[68-f-model]

Can you elaborate on why the lock tight?

[Swishy]

 

U should B able to see a mactchin radii where the bearing iz gunna m8 upto on the shaft

If the bearings R on the front steers I'd use grease and pack the bearings good n proper n not oil in the hub

reason: if U do a seal the oil will leak out n matter of minutes or hour B 4 U have a major incident happening th @could put U in the ditch

Grease = no worries if a seal leaks n leaves a mess U kno U gunna have to replace the seal etc tommorow, this week or l8R

Retaining Compound - medium strength. If disassembly is required. Ideal for parts that need subsequent dismantling.

LOCTITE® 641 is designed for the bonding of cylindrical fitting parts, particularly where disassembly is required for servicing operations. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close-fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage due to shock and vibration. Ideal for parts that need subsequent dismantling, i.e. retention of bearings on shafts and in housings.

cya

[MACKS]

How much larger,does it fit the spindal correctly,I would go with the original,better safe than sorry..

[Maddog13407]

agree, see how tight the old and new fit on the spindle. more top to bottom wobble than side to side is what id worry about. not tellin whats happened over the last 40 years or if someone installed a mismatched set to try to remedy a problem or a worn out spindle.

[Vladislav]

I would go for the larger radius since i see nothing wrong with that. The lesser radius might not allowing the bearing cone to seat completely up to the spindel flange. If it actually seats no trouble to use such one on my mind either.And from the 3rd point of view using a part with a correct factory # would eliminate potential issues and possible doubts and investigation of the matter in the future.

[68-f-model]

Loctite on the races and I put the large radius bearings in as Vlad’s reasoning makes sense.   All should be good. I have to set the bearing preload tonight then onto the other side seals and bearings. 

Swishy ,  I do plan on changing the fronts to grease after I am done with the  drives .

Edited October 30, 2018 by 68-f-model

[Keith S]

1. Go with the larger radius
2. Unless anyone can find it in any service manual for any vehicle, DO NOT USE ANY LOCKTITE on ANY wheel bearing races or bearing surfaces. Because:
   1. There is heat transfer between the hub and the press-fit outer race. It's press-fit for several reasons
      1. It's not supposed to spin
      2. There is better heat transfer with metal-to-metal than any fluid between surfaces. You should not oil or lubricate the outer race before pressing (driving) it into the hub. The oil acts as a heat barrier.
   2. The bearing's inner race that slips over the spindle should spin - it is an additional bearing surface.
      1. Mack, Ford, Caterpillar,... etc. would not waste money precision grinding tens-of-thousands of spindles if it were better/cheaper/easier to press-fit the bearing onto the spindle.
   3. If the spindle is excessively worn ON THE BOTTOM (0.005 - 0.010"), that mean that the spindle is worn and should be repaired or replaced. Punching and chiseling dimples is not a repair... it's a hack-job when you're a thousand miles from nowhere.
   4. Locktite thread-lock and/or retaining compounds are not intended to fill gaps greater than 0.15mm... 0.006 inches. 

[68-f-model]

The loctite is only on the out side of the bearing races. I wager that if your bearings are running so hot that a tiny film between the race and hub causes it to fail you had bigger issues to start with. 

The hubs are all tight to the races and good to go. 

[Hobert62]

I'm glad to see you got over your issues with keep the truck on your property. 

[68-f-model]

Yep painted it flat black and slid it in where there are trees on two sides and my barn on the third.  

[h67st]

18 hours ago, Keith S said:

1. Go with the larger radius
2. Unless anyone can find it in any service manual for any vehicle, DO NOT USE ANY LOCKTITE on ANY wheel bearing races or bearing surfaces. Because:

(deleted to save space)

When I worked in truck shops, I replaced hundreds of wheel bearings/races and never used locktite. I don't know that it would hurt anything but if your machined surfaces are in bad shape I'm not sure it would solve the problem. If your oil or grease are good and preload is correct, the race is not going to move.

[68-f-model]

I set the preload based on this thread.