NOS door installation

[j hancock]

Nice job!

[Freightrain]

Well, I got my door weatherstrip yesterday.  I went out to play around and boy....did that turn into a mess.  I got the stuff stuck in the slot, suddenly the door won't close right.  I had to loose the latch a touch, no biggie.  Then I noticed the bottom outer corner of the door was sticking out like 5/8"?   WTH?  It was fine before it was painted.   Seems the door striker is pushing the door down, the lip of the door is getting caught on the cab and holding it out.  Ugh.  I tried to finesse the door lip, only to crack the paint.  UGH.  Why me?  I slotted the striker plate holes and tried moving it up more.  Helped, but not enough.  Where did it all go wrong?  It fit fine before it was painted.

[h67st]

What a pain! You try to fit things and do it right and then this kind of stuff happens.

[eddeere]

My doors were ok until I installed the new weatherstrip . The right door is good the left can not be closed all the way from the inside .  You have to slam and push  from the outside to close . Thought if I left it closed all the way the weatherstrip would eventually give in and form to the door lip . Months later still no improvement . I guess my next step is start cutting the strip with a razor knife .

[Freightrain]

Mine is not really an issue with the weather stripping, it closes farther without it.  It is nice that it closes tight so it won't rattle but with the latch moving it down it's wedged against the cab and damaging the door.

[j hancock]

Been there, done that and it STINKS!  On one truck, I was able to switch to a different w/s style that compress more and it works OK but not perfect.  On another rig, I had to drill holes in fresh paint for a retaining strip using the OEM pattern and nothing works.  Sort of frustrating!  After doing more research, a previous repair had altered the alignment and without doing some surgery, it just won't work.  It is mostly a sunny day truck so the w/s can stay off.  Everytime I get in the cab, I am greeted by the row of holes that go nowhere....

[Freightrain]

I worked today and the passenger door is perfect just like before I painted the doors. I was able to install my 3/8 inch foam weatherstrip and the door closes perfectly. All I need to do now is glue the new glass into my channel. What does everybody use to glue the glass? The old windows had some kind of thin fabric and likely some glue. I was thinking of using some inner tube rubber and weatherstrip adhesive?  

I still haven't figured out what I'm going to do with the driver's door. I will feel better at least having the passenger door completed and the mirror put on.

[j hancock]

14 hours ago, Freightrain said:

What does everybody use to glue the glass? 

No need for glue. Use window setting tape.  For a couple bucks, the local glass shop supplies the length tape needed and I have installed the metal channel using a plastic dead blow hammer or rubber mallet.  The tape comes in different thicknesses so you have to guestimate what you need. 

 

 

 

[eddeere]

 I used some glass setting tape from Restoration Specialties . I do not know why some thin rubber and adhesive would not work .

[Freightrain]

So the whole deal is something to protect the glass from touching the metal channel and it sticking together.   So some rubber inner tube and some adhesive would function the same if I want to do it today and not wait.  I will be looking at it later today and see what it's like.

[Freightrain]

Well, it went well, sorta.   The inner tube was just the right thickness to make the lower channel press on snug.  I used weatherstrip adhesive and it seems to be holding.

Only real problem is the channels are so tight the window is real snug moving.  Way too snug for my liking.  I used the old glass to support the lower channels as they set up, but the new Mack glass I bought 15 yrs ago is just a TOUCH wider and is a bit tight.  Once it's all assembled and put in the door, it's way too tight once it gets into the vent window channel.  Ugh.   This is really not working as "seamless" as I thought.  Don't know why I thought it would??

[Maddog13407]

try some PB Blaster sprayed on the window channel first Larry. might be messy for a bit but everything needs lube

 

Edited February 25, 2019 by Maddog13407

[wingman]

Love what you're doing with your B Larry. I have similar issues with mine. I'm also interested in your 64 wagon. Tell me about your engine and maybe a few pictures. I have a 66 F100 with a 428 bored 30 over and except for crank all 427 internals heads, and valve train. Lots of fun! I don't know why the pictures loaded sideways.

[eddeere]

I have the same problem glass to tight in the lower channels . I had new glass made for both doors The right side works great . I think they must have made the left side to large . With new felts in the channels you have to  crank hard and pull to get the window up or down . I tried what Maddog said but used some, oil did not help . I have the glass out now and going to take back to the glass shop . I hope they can take about 1/8 " off . The weld on the channel brace to door was broken in one place . I just brazed it back . Maybe some one else had the same problem and this was their fix . Good luck .

 .

 

 

 

 

[Freightrain]

I used OEM Mack glass I bought from Barry 17 yrs ago!!  

I was going to mention I might try to polish it down as it is just a slight bit wider then the glass I removed.  Though the channels still had OEM felts in it, as I had to cut the rivets to removed what was left.

I'm just hesitant due to not wanting to destroy the glass(ie: shatter it).

Wingman,

The wagon motor is a 428 service block, 427 cross bolt caps, 4.25 Scat forged stroker crank, Edelbrock heads(hand ported), Crower flat tappet cam.  Made 625 hp at 6500, 600 ft/lb at 4000 rpm.  Run has run 10.83 @ 123 mph.  Typically runs 11.0's in the summer.

My little '69 F100 has 428CJ motor, med riser 2x4, toploader, 4.56 gears.

Some videos:

 

I'm guessing you are posting from a tablet?  They tend to rotate pictures when put on a forum.  Don't ask why, it's just a common issue.

 

Edited February 25, 2019 by Freightrain

[Keith S]

Did you form these wipes or is that how you ordered them?

I looked at their site and didn't see these - do you have a part number?

[Freightrain]

Keith, those wipes are for a '67-72 F100 pickup.  They were like 4" too long, but had the radius corner that matched.  I confirmed from my '69 F100 in the garage.  I had to cut just a bit off the length of the corner as it was a touch too long there also.  There was a fourth clip in that corner.  The three remaining clips hold them in the door just fine.  I just had to drill the holes for them. 

They used the original Ford part number:  PART #:C7TZ-8121452-SS

https://www.rubbertherightway.com/1969-ford-truck-restoration-parts-80954-prd1.htm

All the parts had MADE IN USA on them.    Likely with "global parts"?  They were nice, no complaints on visual quality.

Edited February 25, 2019 by Freightrain

[Freightrain]

Well I tinkered with the passenger door.  The window seems to work a bit easier now.  Not perfectly smooth and easy, but not worth tearing it apart, at least now.  The door closes nice and tight.   

On to the drivers door. I got the guts bolted back in, need to get one snap clip for the window mechanism.  It either walked away or was always missing?   I also got 1/4" thick foam to see if that allows the door to close tighter without having to adjust the striker out so far like with the 3/8" thick foam(that is on the passenger door and works perfect).  Baby steps.

[Maddog13407]

been there, and had the panel in and out 10 times, chipped paint on door edge, opened and closed door 100 times to get it right, cracked door glass. been down all those roads. I guess if it was east everyone would do it right? B model doors and gut installation can try your mind

[Freightrain]

I got the new 1/4" thick seal on the drivers door.  Seems to work really nice now.  Closes nice and snug.  I got the window glued into the lower mount, should get that  assembled today.  I'm missing one clip for the regulator.  There were two designs, one was a spring horse clip, the other was a side on style with a tab to keep it locked on.  Local place had nothing, I'm going to check Azone later today and see if something in the "help" section might work.

The passenger door is ready to install the upper channel and install the inside trim and be done with that side!!  The mirrors are all mounted and secured on both doors.  We're chipping away at it!!!

[Freightrain]

Well, the drivers door is now assembled.  The window worked smoothly in the lower track, but now it gets real tight in the vent window track.  The passenger side was similar, and after leaving the window up for a few weeks it is getting "looser".  Not as loose as I like, but better.  I've done the same to the drivers window.

I have the trim panel on the passenger window, it's all buttoned up and complete.

I found out why my drivers door handle sags a bit.  Nothing to do with the return spring on the latch(it's tight).  Seems the 5/16" square stock that actuates the latch is worn right there.  With the door panel off, it fits tight and works well.  Once the panel is the door, the handle then rides in the worn spot and sags.  I had two thoughts.  Weld/machine that area, or cut/flip the piece and use the part that isn't worn.  I'm going to flip it.  Less work involved.  It's that or buy new 5/16" keystock and replace the worn section.  Either way will get the handle hanging properly(like the passenger door which saw minimal use and hangs straight).

[Freightrain]

I bought a new piece of 5/16" keystock and cut a chunk off the door handle and welded a new piece on.  The door handle now fits snug in the door latch mechanism and doesn't sag.  Winning.

I bought a house window handle(chrome finish) to install on the passenger door to make it easier for Karen to pull herself up.  She always had to run the window down to give a place to grab.  With the windows being so tough to work, a handle is easier.  I think I will install one on the driver side just to give myself something better to slam the door with.  It closes pretty firm and I don't want to beat up the door lock handle by pulling on it.

A road test the other night proved it is a bit quieter inside, less rattles of the doors on rough roads.  Winning.